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Author Topic: Wiring Diagram for CDE AR40 rotator  (Read 17638 times)

Posts: 12


« on: July 11, 2002, 04:24:50 AM »

I aquired this morning a CDE AR40 rotator which looks cosmetically in good condition, but I have no wiring diagram for it.  Does anybody know the connections between the rotator and the control box?
Hope it works as it only cost me 30 us dollars
thanks in advance ian / m0kcm

Posts: 3585

« Reply #1 on: July 11, 2002, 07:27:41 AM »

HI: While my memory of the AR-40 is a bit foggy, especially before the first couple of pots of coffee, it's an "8 wire rotor." CDE has gone the way of all flesh, but the Howard W. Sams line of "Photofacts" has a wiring diagram - although it would be pricey.

Fortunately it's a simple beast with no really nasty surprises as long as you don't take the rotor itself apart. If you must do that, proceed very carefully and take copius notes. Photographs if possible. And be careful not to lose any of the parts that fall out of the thing.

Connections are straightforward, 1 to 1, 2 to 2, etc..

You are almost certain to have a bad "rotor capacitor." That's the large tubular capacitor in the box, attached between two of the lugs on the terminal strip - and the rotor will turn very slowly if at all when it goes sour. An exact replacement is probably not available, "made of unobtanium" as the younger set says.

Fortunately the value is not particularly critical, I usually use an 80 to 100 microfarad electrolytic cap at 50 Volts NONPOLARIZED. If your local supplier does not have one try an electric motor rewinding shop.

And that's all I can think of without a "jolt of joe."

73  Pete Allen  AC5E

Posts: 12


« Reply #2 on: July 11, 2002, 08:50:37 AM »

Updated comments.  I have removed a 1/2 inch layer of silicone sealant from under the rotor housing and found the small connection box.  Luckily the previous owner had the good idea to place numbered cble sleeves over the wires at the rotor end.  So i wired it up.  (only five wires) 1-1, 2-2 etc. I can make the light come on, on the control  box, and the rotor itself starts to buzz, but no movement.  When i check the connections, pins 3,4 and 5 have a direct short. Could this be a result of the defective capacitor or something more serious.?
ian / m0kcm

Posts: 21764

« Reply #3 on: July 11, 2002, 10:36:52 AM »

The AR40 is actually a current model, still sold by Hy-Gain <>.  And it's still a 5-wire rotator.  If you'd like a complete manual, it is available from them.


Posts: 3585

« Reply #4 on: July 11, 2002, 10:51:34 AM »

Take the cover off the box and take a look. If it's a five wire jobbie it can either have a meter or a stepping solenoid. You should see the rotor capacitor with no problems. Both ends of the rotor cap should connect to the terminal strip on the rear, along with wiring to the direction-of-travel switch.

The third "low resistance" terminal should have a direct wire to the power transformer. There should be 24 V AC between either end of the capacitor and the wire to the power transformer.

Next, disconnect the box from the mains. Then....

There should be very little resistance between the ends of that cap WITH THE ROTOR CONNECTED. The capacitor introduces a phase difference between the motor windings, determining the direction of travel, and you will be measureing across the rotor motor.

Disconnect the rotor from the control box. There should be a fairly high resistance across the cap with the rotor disconnected and the box turned off.

You should have a low resistance between one end of the capacitor and the transformer return winding, measuring across the power transformer secondary, when the box is set to turn the rotor. The low resistance side should reverse when you reverse the direction of rotor travel.

If you have 24 V across the rotor motor and it does not turn, replace the capacitor with a 75-100 MFD NON POLARIZED cap with at least 50 VAC working volts. If it still does not turn and you do have 24 V - you will need to disassemble the rotor. The motor is most likely frozen or the gear reduction line has problems.

If the box has a meter - there should be a low AC voltage on the meter when the power is on. As I remember, from 40 years ago, it's in the 1 V AC range, but do start expecting full transformer voltage. If you have a suitable voltage and the meter does not deflect, you will need one.

If you have a stepper, and none of the parts are obvously broken, it will probably work. Check the "mainspring" carefully, and sometimes the solenoid will take some lightning and open. Other than that, and having to wash out gummy residue, I don't remember ever having major problems with a CDR box.

I sure hope this helps and best of luck with your project.

73  Pete Allen  AC5E


Posts: 3160

« Reply #5 on: July 13, 2002, 01:31:19 PM »

The Cornell Dubilier Electronics company sold their rotor division to Telex/Hy-Gain in 1981. Hy-Gain decided to support only the AR-22, AR-40, CD45-II, Ham-4, and TailTwister rotors.

All rights to the other rotors were assigned to Norm's Rotor Service. Today we are the only facility with parts for the original units. We have almost all parts for the AR-22, AR-33, AR-40, AR-50, BT-1, TR-44, CD-44, Ham-M, Ham-2, and Ham-3 rotors.

Telex/HyGain sold the HyGain line of rotors to MFJ in May of 1999. (And, of course, we also have parts for the rotors that Hy-Gain continues to support.)

PARTS and SERVICE:  Norm's Rotor Service:

73 de w9gb
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