Battery for Simpson 260 VOM?


Mike McCoy:
I've got a nice analog Simpson 260 but one/both of the batteries are dead. I tried replacing both 1.5 'D' & 9v with 'heavy duty' alkalines but it doesn't seem to zero/calibrate properly.

I've run into situations where the *type* of battery makes a difference in whether or not some device works properly (my Autek RF1 antenna analyzer comes to mind. It simply refuses to work properly with anything but a fresh alkaline).

The manual says to replace them with NEDA 13F (Duracell MN or Eveready #95 'D' Cell) and a NEDA 1604 (9v. Duracell MN1604 or Eveready 522).  

Just wondering if these are somehow 'special' batteries, with some particular characteristic different from regular 'off the shelf' alkalines?

Dave Z:
Standard bat should work. Alkalines have slightly differnt voltage characteristics(lower) than std carbon comp. Try a standard rayovac HD batt and see if that does the trick. I havent used a 260 in a long time but I believe there is a zero adjust cal pot tat you could maybe use to correct the error. I would verify readings with a known good digital for kicks. 72 Dave

the batteries are for the OHMS meter, 1.5 for low ohms, 9v for high ohms.

The adjustment knob on the front of the meter will compensate for battery voltages (that is the ZERO OHMS knob), so if the batteries are any where near good, you should be able to calibrate using the Zero Ohms control.

If the voltage reading are off, you may have bad range resistors... depending on age of the 260 and abuse it has endured.

Steven E. Matda:
My 260 always has problems with the D battery coming out of its' holder and the leads developing loose connections causing intermittent readings.

Steve Katz:
...and of course, about 99% of the "calibration" problems with Simpson 260s are due to alligator clip oxidation or corrosion, which makes it impossible to calibrate to "zero Ohms" no matter how good the batteries are -- that's because you'll never hit anything close to zero Ohms unless the clips are new and shiny!

A 260 will almost always calibrate fine on Rx100 or higher ranges, but the Rx1 range is tough.  To be accurate, you need incredibly good contact between the clips when you calibrate.  I replace the clips regularly to keep them reasonably oxide free, although thoroughly cleaning them might do as well.  Of course, the "banana" plugs at the meter end have to be scrupulously clean as well.  Can't blame the meter for not reading "zero," when in truth, you're not even close to "zero" with most sets of clips that are aged more than a few weeks...



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