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Author Topic: GapTitanDX_extra info..  (Read 956 times)

Posts: 10

« on: January 24, 2007, 12:35:14 PM »

I need to have more extra information of the necessary adjustments of the antenna Titan DX so that it also works best possible in all the bands and serious,what is the best adjustment for counterpoise and as it must be the mount of the antenna, rather the necessary height.
Alive in a a little high site and the ceiling of the house is of zinc and I have two you hoist patches next to the house, although they do not have branches upon the ceiling.

***Please I do not want the same information of company GAP but personal information of some people who also have it and have experience with respect to the best assembly for one better transmiciĆ³n***

thanks very much,
att:Edwin WP3DZ (westsideofP.R.PortadelSol)

Posts: 9930

« Reply #1 on: January 24, 2007, 04:01:18 PM »

I have the voyager, not the titan, and the voyager calls for 3 57 foot radials, so my antenna is ground mounted and the 3 radials run in 3 directions under the lawn ( I used an electric edger to make a slot) and then the rest is stapeled to the fence for the rest of the length.  it works here, I have a stucco house ( chicken wire) and a shed with in 20 feet and its ok, on 160, good on 80 and 40 and deaf on 20 meters..

hope this is some help.

Posts: 3288

« Reply #2 on: January 24, 2007, 06:51:11 PM »

I helped put up a Gap Titan for my club last year.  It went together without problem and required only one or two tweaks to the counterpoise skirt.  All the other bands had excellent SWR and bandwidth and required no adjustment. It was located in the woods with the skirt about 4 feet above ground level.

The two items to check are that you have the antenna properly mounted with the plastic insulator pieces isolating it from your metal mast.  This is the key to why the antenna needs no radials.  Likewise, it requires no grounding wire like conventional trapped verticals.

The other item is to check that you have the feedline exiting the antenna/mast exactly as indicated in the manual, since this will adversely affect performance.

Good luck!   Bill  


Posts: 729


« Reply #3 on: January 24, 2007, 07:15:56 PM »

The Titan needs no radials, first of all, because it is a vertical dipole.  Inside it is a coaxial dipole. The stubs along the sides are detuning stubs for band switching and are not adjustable.  

There are two adjustments to the Titan.  The first is the counterpoise.  By bringing the ends of the radius wire (around the counterpoise) closer together, that extends the length of that wire and lowers the resonant frequency.  With the ends further apart that wire is shortened and that raises the resonant frequency. This adjustment, though is valid ONLY for 40 meters, and does not affect any other band.  If you can pick a resonant point around 7120 khz you can tune the entire band with less than 2.1:1 SWR.  

Height is not important.  The antenna can be mounted two or three feet above ground, since it does not use real earth ground for its performance.  Mine is mounted with the counterpoise about three feet from ground level.   The antenna can be tower mounted, or on any sort of pole.

If you are in a windy climate, it does need guying.  I use 3/16 nylon rope, fastened with a stainless steel hose clamp about 2/3 up the antenna.  This rope finally wore out recently but the antenna has been up ten years with that rope.  

There is an end cap at the very top - a capacitor. That tunes the internal coaxial dipole for the correct 100 hertz portion of 80/75 meters.  However, getting the antenna to be flat across any 100 hertz portion won't happen.  It will be very good across about 50 hertz and then the SWR will climb rather quickly.  

That capacitor can be changed (you can get different ranges from GAP) to shift your resonant point, but it is a real pain to lower the antenna and change that cap, as part of the top section has to be telescoped down slightly. There is a tilt base available for this antenna, but to tilt it, the counterpoise must be removed!  (It can just be loosened and pushed to one side.)  

In the wind this antenna flexes a lot.  I found I needed to reinforce the various joints on the main mast, which I did with stainless hose clamps.  

Performance is fine.  I have actually used mine on both 6 and 2 meters, though it is not rated for those frequencies.  Across all bands 20 meters and up, no tuner is required , as it will maintain a less than 2.3:1 SWR.  On 30 meters it is near perfect due to the bandwidth, across that entire band.  On 40, though, the counterpoise comes into play, and you will not get good SWR across the entire band without a tuner.

On 80 meters 50-60 hertz from the center freq  is about it, unless you use a tuner.  At power levels of 100 watts or so, that's OK.  With high power, and a tuner, you wind up heating the coax feedline and not really doing much at the antenna.  

The antenna does not cover 60 meters.

Hope this helps


Posts: 298

« Reply #4 on: January 25, 2007, 09:54:35 AM »

I would just call Chris at GAP,
He answeres the phone on the first ring.

I am, not sure what you should do about having that thing mounted on a metal roof, or near a metal roof.  

The angle the feed line leaves the antenna, the objects you are running the feed line next to,
and the length of the 40 meter counter poise.
Are all critical. It is very diferent from a 1/4 wave antenna.

If you have a lot with a tin roof the only place that thing is going to work for you is mounted in the center of the tin roof. In that case you could take the counter poise off.

You will need a tip over mast and mount it securely to the roof put the butt end of the antenna in the mount and hoist it with the guy wires.

Please be very careful it is not very heavy.
but is is long wiggly and bouncy.

I custom made my own tip over out of 1-1/2" pipe and I use a couple big coffee cans full of concrete on a 2-1/2 foot long bar for a counter weight. I rigged up some rope to pull down on the counter weight with a loop bolt at the base of the mast so I could be pulling up on the rope with one hand and pushing up on the antenna with the other. I wear leather gloves
and it is a pain in the butt. But as long as you don't get your guy wires hooked on anything she will go right up.

Of course you will want to angle the mast so it follows the angle of the roof. That way you can access the top of the antenna and the tuning rods from the groung or a step ladder depending on the height of the building and the slope of the roof.

I would mount a big ugly 10 foot long piece of pvc on the roof for a week and see if the neighbors or the XYL complains while you are working on your tip over mast.

Again 2 minutes on the phone with chris at gap can save you 2 weeks of fustration.

If you can't mount it on the roof put it back in the box and sell it.

Erik, AC0FA

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