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Author Topic: New 2016 Ford F150 Install  (Read 1951 times)
K5BBC
Member

Posts: 64




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« Reply #15 on: April 27, 2016, 11:45:50 AM »


Universal ingress/egress tool for all makes and models:




Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM


Yup. Permits the wiring to be put where it needs to be, no lumps in the carpet, sharp bends, and plug with silicone and/or rubber plugs on un-install.  I've found it actually quicker and cleaner than all of the work around/"no holes" methods.
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N0CIC
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Posts: 6




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« Reply #16 on: April 27, 2016, 06:27:52 PM »

Back to the main subject please, any help installing a ham radio in my new F-150 crew cab would be appreciated. Thanks
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N7SGI
Member

Posts: 3




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« Reply #17 on: April 27, 2016, 09:28:43 PM »

On my 2014 F150 I just poked holes in 2 large existing "grommets" on the firewall.  There is one near the steering on the left and one near the computers on the right.  2016 change body designs slightly so your mileage may very.
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W8JX
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Posts: 9156




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« Reply #18 on: April 28, 2016, 04:39:12 AM »

Well either way, that aluminum will sure be appreciated when after 10 or 15 years you can't find any rust on the vehicle body!!  Wink

Actually GM had a much better idea 25 years ago with Saturn with plastic body panels. I have a 19 year old one with over 200k miles with no dings or dents let alone rust. ( smack it with a car door or shopping cart in a parking lot and no damage) No rust on chassis either because no galvanic reaction from dissimilar metals. GM discontinued plastic body around 2007 model as a cost cutting measure.

The future of cars lies in plastic or composite bodies not aluminum.
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You can embrace new computing technology and change with it or cling to past and fall further behind everyday....
VE6ND
Member

Posts: 19




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« Reply #19 on: April 28, 2016, 06:32:50 AM »

Look under the dash, drivers side upper left and there is a large grommet there. You can punch through that and it's more or less self sealing as it's a silicon rubber. I did that with my 2014 F-150 and ran several cable through that. Use a vhf whip and tie on the cables.
You don't have to drill ANY holes especially with some ripper bit.

Glenn, VE6ND
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KK4YDR
Member

Posts: 240




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« Reply #20 on: April 28, 2016, 11:00:37 AM »


Universal ingress/egress tool for all makes and models:




Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM


Yup. Permits the wiring to be put where it needs to be, no lumps in the carpet, sharp bends, and plug with silicone and/or rubber plugs on un-install.  I've found it actually quicker and cleaner than all of the work around/"no holes" methods.


Oh god those are nasty bits, dont use those haha For the cleanest most smooth holes use a stepper bit. Looks like a big cone with different sizes as you step up the length of the bit towards the drill.
Hole saws vs. sheet metal is a real gamble on totally boinking up the install. Plus the center hole bit will sometimes penetrate too far and damage stuff under neath the sheet metal before the hole saw fully penetrates. They get super HOT and sometimes you have to use cutting oil to keep the metal from getting red hot under the bit.

« Last Edit: April 28, 2016, 11:02:51 AM by KK4YDR » Logged
K0BG
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Posts: 10149


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« Reply #21 on: April 28, 2016, 01:15:35 PM »

Use what you want, but this is what I use: http://www.amazon.com/Blair-Equipment-11090N-Rotabroach-Cutter/dp/B000LQOCRK

No jagged hole here!
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W8JX
Member

Posts: 9156




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« Reply #22 on: April 28, 2016, 06:03:28 PM »

In flight test/mod they use "cam a lot" hole cutters. A pilot hole was drilled in about 140 thousandths or less stock and a bolt was place in hole and one half of cutter was placed on each side and it was clamped together with bolt punching a clean hole. For thicker stock they used custom carbide cutters sized for hole size needed. They also had a cutter that could cut through 6 inch stock with great precision using fine wire draw at very high speed. It was impressive to watch. It had a large spool of fine wire several miles long that was coiled up and discarded after first use. They would then take empty spool and move it to take up position and load a new spool.
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You can embrace new computing technology and change with it or cling to past and fall further behind everyday....
K5LXP
Member

Posts: 4918


WWW

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« Reply #23 on: April 28, 2016, 07:08:30 PM »

Use what you want, but this is what I use: http://www.amazon.com/Blair-Equipment-11090N-Rotabroach-Cutter/dp/B000LQOCRK

No jagged hole here!

BUT, does it make smoke come out of the hole?  It's not a real antenna hole unless smoke comes out when you cut it.

Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM
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KK4YDR
Member

Posts: 240




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« Reply #24 on: April 29, 2016, 01:01:00 AM »

Use what you want, but this is what I use: http://www.amazon.com/Blair-Equipment-11090N-Rotabroach-Cutter/dp/B000LQOCRK

No jagged hole here!

BUT, does it make smoke come out of the hole?  It's not a real antenna hole unless smoke comes out when you cut it.

Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM


Your not a real ham until you damage your car the very first hole you drill!
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N4WFB
Member

Posts: 22




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« Reply #25 on: April 29, 2016, 01:12:44 PM »

Back to the main subject please, any help installing a ham radio in my new F-150 crew cab would be appreciated. Thanks

I'm not sure about the newer model Super Crews, but on my 2004, there are wiring channels accessible when you remove the door sills.  In the bottom of the channels, there are several rubber plugs that can be drilled through to run wiring from beneath the cab into the wiring channels.  It's also easy to run your wiring beneath the carpet with the sill removed.
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KD5BVX
Member

Posts: 49




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« Reply #26 on: April 29, 2016, 01:24:51 PM »

For a second I thought I was on eHam.net until I saw the posts about structural integrity of the F150...somehow I got on a truck forum! 

All kidding aside...I think it is obvious what we have here:  the people who like Ford and the ones who don't.
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Mark / KD5BVX
Arkansas
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