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Author Topic: Bicycle Mobile options  (Read 448 times)
KD5VEZ
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Posts: 1




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« on: February 26, 2004, 04:10:48 PM »

Hey Guys,

I'm currently using my VX-5RS mobile in my Buick, but am also considering equiping my bicycle for Mobile operations.  I'm having a tough time of it deciding which antenna to get, and how to mount in on the bicycle with a minimum of serious modification (welding, etc.).  I operate on UHF/VHF in the car, and would be doing the same on the Bicycle, so I'm looking for antennas that are dual-band or tri-band in the 6m, 2m, and 70cm frequency range.

I'm pretty new to the hobby, so I don't have any pet brands that I'm 'betrothed' to.  If you guys have any suggestions, I'd be grateful to hear them.

I've got the OEK (Oriental Equivalent Knock-off) of the Diamond SG7500A which I picked up at a Ham-fest for $30.  I'm wondering if I shouldn't put that on my bicycle, and buy a new dual-band or tri-band antenna for the car.

I'm also contemplating getting a new mobile radio (Yaesu FT-7800) for the car for higher power output.

Opinions anyone?  Feel free to comment on any or all of my ideas/options.

-A. M. Taylor
KD5VEZ
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K0BG
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Posts: 9863


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« Reply #1 on: February 27, 2004, 11:12:08 AM »

You should obtain a loaded half wave like those used on plastic cars as these require minimal or not groundplane. Just keep the antenna as far away from you head as you can. You also should use a bigger corona ball to minimize getting poked in the eye with the stock whip end.

Alan, KØBG
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N2IK
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Posts: 220




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« Reply #2 on: March 08, 2004, 09:45:18 PM »

Do a Google search for "WX2NJ Bicycle Mobile" and you should pull up his webpage with a twinlead Jpole in CPVC pipe mounted on his bicycle. Simple cheap and won't poke your eye out.

73 de Walt N2IK
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WB6BYU
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Posts: 13243




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« Reply #3 on: March 18, 2004, 05:37:47 PM »

Probably the best bicycle mobile antenna I used was an
old steel CB whip attached to a bracket under the rear
axle nuts.  The whip can be grounded to the bracket -
it doesn't need to be insulated in the normal manner.
Then I used two metal clamps and an insulated brace
to attach a piece of tubing parallel with this to make
a J-pole.  The top of the tubing is about 38" down from
the top of the whip, and the distance from the top of
the tubing down to the uppermost metal clamp that
shorts it to the whip is about 19".  (The second metal
clamp is a few inches below that to provide a more
rugged attachment.)  The coax is tapped about an inch
above the top metal bracket - adjust the top metal
clamp and the coax tap point in the usual manner for
best SWR as with any other J-pole.

This may also work on 440, though probably not optimum.
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