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Author Topic: IC-706MKIIG Remote Head Mounting  (Read 2568 times)
VE3TMT
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Posts: 393




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« Reply #15 on: March 01, 2004, 08:08:17 AM »

To KA3RFE,

Is it really neccessary to post your reply 4 times?
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AB2MH
Member

Posts: 263


WWW

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« Reply #16 on: March 01, 2004, 07:21:04 PM »

Wow, 2 pounds?  Are you absolutely sure?  The whole radio itself weighs 5lb 6oz (according to the specs).  I find it hard to believe that the head alone weighs 2 pounds.
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AE4X
Member

Posts: 42




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« Reply #17 on: March 05, 2004, 10:54:55 PM »

Velcro (heavy duty) is king. I used a different approach, though, along with the velcro, for my FT857 faceplace.
I refuse to put in a heavy duty radio mount and I WILL NOT drill into my car. It's too nice of a car to make it look gawdy inside.
I decided to just stroll through every Lowe's aisle to find things that could be used as a mount.
I finally stumbled upon a sandpaper wedge which is all rubber sans the sandpaper you add.
This wedge's angle was perfect for mounting a faceplate on it. It also fit in perfectly to my cupholder closest to the dash consule.
The color of the wedge also matched the interior of the car (charcoal grey) I then superglued velcro to the wedge and it was secured. On the faceplate holder of the the 857 detachable face I added the other piece of velcro. After all was done it looked like a professional mount and like one that was factory installed.
I attached the faceplate holder and it kept everything at about a nice 45 degree angle (perfect for viewing and easily reached with my arm).
I can disconnect the 857 face and stowe it away if I don't want it visible.
I tried all different places for the mount but it was either a pain to change modes, etc. when too high up or the viewing of it was not good when driving. I also don't like to keep the mount where someone in the passenger seat can bump it, nudge it or whatever.
Now it's low profile, easy to get to and looks great.
The 706 faceplate would also work just as well in this type of mount.
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N2IK
Member

Posts: 220




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« Reply #18 on: March 05, 2004, 11:50:54 PM »

All you folks using velcro or doublesided tape need to realize what that tape is stuck to. If you are on the top of most dashes, you are on a vinyl coated foam plastic assembly which has a thin metal spine in some locations. If you glue to the vinyl coated foam and have an accident, the only thing securing your remote head is the adhesive and the vinyl to foam interface. I do not want to trust my head and face to that sort of arrangement. Be careful.

Velcro or double sided tape may work on the hard surface of a solid part of the dash. But remember that the forces in an accident are very strong.

It is much stronger to put screws throught the dash top into that metal spine. If you look at how the pro's do it in police vehicles and work trucks that is how they mount on top of a dash. Replacing the screws when you remove the bracket does not look too bad.

It is better to be safe than sorry.

73 de N2IK Walt
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N3ZKP
Member

Posts: 2008




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« Reply #19 on: March 06, 2004, 01:24:10 AM »

<< Replacing the screws when you remove the bracket does not look too bad. >>

Just did that on a '98 Windstar. Counting cell phone, two control heads, speakers and microphone brackets there were 14 holes in the dash and overhead console.

Put the screws back in an painted them the same color as whatever they were in.
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KC0OXM
Member

Posts: 13




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« Reply #20 on: March 09, 2004, 06:21:30 PM »

While calculating kinetic energy is fun to do, it's not really applicable to personal safety in this case. If I'm going 60mph, then I'm most likely going forward.  If I'm going forward and the remote head is on the dash, then the head unit will tend to go towards the front of the car in a crash, NOT towards me or my passengers.  Personal safety is not an issue here.  Yes, it may fly off and smash against the windshield, getting destroyed in the process, but that's just a financial loss, not bodily.

That said, take a look at the great mounts put out by pro-fit:  http://www.pro-fit-intl.com/

They have a nice line of reasonably priced, well-made mounts.  Vehicle specific, universal, window mounts, etc.  I spoke with one of their mount designers and it turns out he's a ham and is trying to get the company to market to the amateur radio operators more.

I'm using the Ulti-mount for the head unit of my FT-8900, putting right on the dash so it's a short look down from the road to see it.  It also has a swivel ball mount so when my wife's driving, I can turn it towards me in the passenger seat.

For my 706mkii, which I just bought, I think I'm going with "THe Bug" a new product they have.  Both of those products use 3M auto-adhesive tape to stick to the car and this is easily removed if you want to, without residue, yet holds very tightly.

They have a line of "vehicle specific mounts" which will allow you to install without damaging your vehicle but for my grand caravan, it just put the head unit too far away for me.  It might work great for others.  

To see my mount for the FT-8900, you can go to this site:  http://www.pbase.com/lehnherr/ham_radio

Pat
KC0RTQ
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W0FM
Member

Posts: 2055




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« Reply #21 on: March 10, 2004, 07:48:40 PM »

I use a PanaVise IN-DASH mount with my 706 in my Jeep.  The sturdy bracket attaches to existing bolts holding your AM/FM radio in the dash.  No new holes and no stuff flying around the cab in a crash.  Check it out.  Custom for almost every vehicle.

http://www.panavise.com/nf/comm/indash/index.html

73,

Terry, WØFM
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KI4DLK
Member

Posts: 16




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« Reply #22 on: March 13, 2004, 12:12:43 AM »

Ok Thanks everyone you all had good ideas ill just have too see which one works best. Thanks
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N4XLE
Member

Posts: 2




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« Reply #23 on: March 18, 2004, 10:33:50 PM »

I wanted to mount my IC-706 front plate on the dash of my Dodge truck where it would be easily accessable to the driver with the added requirement that I don't want to drill or otherwise mar the interior of my truck because I plan to re-sell it someday.  I took advantage of a very convenient cigarette lighter socket in the dash and the handy 1/4-20 threaded hole which already exists in the center of the ICOM mounting plate.  I  modified an old cigarette lighter auxiliary power plug by removing all the wires from the plug and drilling out the back of it. Removing some more of the inside plastic on the plug allowed me to insert a 1/4 inch rod into the plug. I used epoxy to bond the plug and the rod to each other.  I threaded the free end of the rod so that it screws into the back of the mounting plate (I used an added keeper nut to prevent any head rotation).  Now I simply plug my ICOM remote head into the cigarette lighter socket and I am ready to mobile!
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