Call Search
     

New to Ham Radio?
My Profile

Community
Articles
Forums
News
Reviews
Friends Remembered
Strays
Survey Question

Operating
Contesting
DX Cluster Spots
Propagation

Resources
Calendar
Classifieds
Ham Exams
Ham Links
List Archives
News Articles
Product Reviews
QSL Managers

Site Info
eHam Help (FAQ)
Support the site
The eHam Team
Advertising Info
Vision Statement
About eHam.net

   Home   Help Search  
Pages: [1] 2 Next   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: 40m causing engine stall  (Read 2148 times)
KO1D
Member

Posts: 387




Ignore
« on: April 28, 2007, 01:08:27 PM »

I have a 2002 Ford Escape XLT. When I use my Tarheel on 40m I have found that when I am adjusting the antenna what I assume is RF gets into the car ignition system and causes the engine to strain and sometimes stall. Now I am not sure where to address the problem. Should I shield the spark plug lines? Do I need to put a few snap on ferrites at the computer? Do I do both? Neither? More? Not sure on my next step.

All the body, doors and antenna are now grounded. I have not bee able to ground the engine block and transmission to the Uni-Body yet as I do not have a lift and enough knowledge to handle it (know someone who does but schedules have not been nice.) Would this help?

Any advice would be great.

Thanks

Dan S.
KO1D
Logged
KO1D
Member

Posts: 387




Ignore
« Reply #1 on: April 28, 2007, 01:09:22 PM »

I should note that once it is properly tuned I have no issues at all. It is only when the tuning process is underway.

Dan S
Logged
AB2MH
Member

Posts: 263


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #2 on: April 28, 2007, 01:18:49 PM »

How much power do you "tune" with?
Logged
KO1D
Member

Posts: 387




Ignore
« Reply #3 on: April 28, 2007, 01:57:54 PM »

5w is the minimum the rig will transmit. So I turn it down to 5w.

Dan S
Logged
W5QZT
Member

Posts: 1




Ignore
« Reply #4 on: April 28, 2007, 05:30:21 PM »

Dan
I am having the same problem w/ my Tarheel.I have a Ford
F350 diesel, running a 706 MKII G w/ a Turbo Tuner.
As the tuner tunes to low SWR, the engine begins to accel and then quit.( esp @ 40 M) The tuner tunes,so I think I have a fairly good
ground but I still have a lot of noise. I receive good signal reports, so my best guess is either the injectors and /or fuel pump could be the culprits. I am in the process of making sure I have the truck well grounded, and then I am going to look at #31 beads on the electrics for the noise problem. I am not sure how you would shield the engine from antenna RF. And it seems Ford does not know either. This is my first HF mobil install; if I have any luck, I'll repost and let you know.
Best regards & 73
Jack
W5QZT
Logged
K0BG
Member

Posts: 9885


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #5 on: April 28, 2007, 06:58:16 PM »

DC grounding the antenna is not the issue. What is, is the lack of adequate ground plane. Vehicles are lossy enough, but when you mount antennas without enough mass UNDER them, you have problems just like you describe.

Problem two is, when you don't do enough bypassing of the control line to the antenna. Remember, the motor and the reed switch are operating above RF ground. One or two turns through a toroid are not enough. Try 7 to 10 turns through a large split bead. A couple of .01 caps after the beads will help too. It is also wise to use shielded cable for any of the control leads placed inside the vehicle.

Lastly, check the continuity of the control wires, and make sure none of them are common with the antenna itself. If any of them are, no amount of RF proofing will cure the problem.

Alan, KØBG
www.k0bg.com
Logged

KO1D
Member

Posts: 387




Ignore
« Reply #6 on: April 29, 2007, 10:38:28 AM »

Thanks Alan!

Minute I added a second larger snap on torrid with about 3 more turns on the control wire it appears the problem was solved. For now. Wink

Dan S
KO1D
Logged
K4KWH
Member

Posts: 51




Ignore
« Reply #7 on: April 29, 2007, 11:24:15 AM »

Just curious---which rig is it?  if it is a remoted 706, check the ground screw that secures the control cable to the body of the rig. MIght not be it, but you never know!


73

J
Logged
KO1D
Member

Posts: 387




Ignore
« Reply #8 on: April 29, 2007, 12:50:02 PM »

I have a TS480sat. Head is mounted in the front under the dash and the body is mounted in the back of the Escape on the driver's side interior wall.

Dan S
KO1D
Logged
WU5E
Member

Posts: 21




Ignore
« Reply #9 on: May 01, 2007, 12:48:42 AM »

glad you got it, all Tarheel when bought new have a snap on torrid for that problem, I'm in Iraq and still used the snap on Torrid for my little tarheel on the roof of my Steel building. No problems here.

Wonder if the IC-7000 will handle the normal wear and tear of moblie use.

Jim
WU5E
YI9E
Logged
KO1D
Member

Posts: 387




Ignore
« Reply #10 on: May 01, 2007, 05:48:36 AM »

Good because if your steel building stalled out I think we'd all want to hear about that. HI HI!

Stay safe!
Logged
N3XQ
Member

Posts: 7




Ignore
« Reply #11 on: May 09, 2007, 03:35:24 AM »

Jim,

I am using an IC7000 with my Tarheel M-100 in a small car and it works fine. Have the display mounted on a Port-A-Vise arm and the main box in the back of the car. A VERY rugged radio.

73,  Tom  N3XQ
Logged
KG4RUL
Member

Posts: 2749


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #12 on: May 09, 2007, 05:42:54 AM »

I am using a Little Tarheel II with a Comet heavy-duty trunk lip mount on the rear hatch of a Saturn VUE.  running 100 watts from a Yaesu FT-100D, I have had no problems with stalling under any conditions and on any band from 86M (MARS Frequencies) through 6M.

Dennis KG4RUL
Logged
KC2RFQ
Member

Posts: 6




Ignore
« Reply #13 on: October 02, 2010, 12:23:24 PM »

I had a similar problem on my Chevy Trailblazer LTZ(2002). Originally was taking power from the fuse block mounted under the rear seat. Transmitting on 40M would stop the engine in a second! Wired direct to battery and problem went away. The automatic climate control seems sensitive to radiated RF. Even with winding choke coils for the Tarheel's motor and sense lines as described by K0BG and choking the coax, transmitting on most frequencies above 40M causes the auto climate control to turn on (if off) or change temerature/fan speeds (if already on). I'm suspecting poor shielding of that control module. Adding ferrites to the leads entering the control had no benefit. I've incorporated extensive vehicle bonding and assured the mount is grounded. If anyone has any ideas, I'd be really appreciative!
Thanks
« Last Edit: October 02, 2010, 06:56:01 PM by Steven Fishman » Logged
VE6JRU
Member

Posts: 5




Ignore
« Reply #14 on: November 10, 2010, 12:58:48 AM »

I'm suspecting poor shielding of that control module. Adding ferrites to the leads entering the control had no benefit. I've incorporated extensive vehicle bonding and assured the mount is grounded. If anyone has any ideas, I'd be really appreciative!
Thanks

Wrap the control module in tinfoil and ground it?  Grin
Logged
Pages: [1] 2 Next   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!