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Author Topic: Prius Antenna Mounts  (Read 2312 times)
WA1HOG
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Posts: 2




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« on: May 16, 2008, 07:15:20 PM »

I have a 2008 Prius and am considering installing a TM 741 2/22/440 triband rig.

I have the antenna. What I dont want to do is drill a hole. Is there any trunk or lip style mounts that will work on a Prius?

Thanks
Dennis WA1HOG
ARRL NH TC
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W3LK
Member

Posts: 5639




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« Reply #1 on: May 16, 2008, 07:35:00 PM »

Just about any of the trunk mounts should work - assuming the trunk deck is made of metal and not some composite material.

If it's composite, it doesn't matter whether you use a trunk mount or drill a hole. You're not going to have a ground plane under the antenna unless you install copper tape or something similar on the underside of the trunk deck.

73,

Lon - W3LK
Naugatuck, Connecticut
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W3LK
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Posts: 5639




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« Reply #2 on: May 17, 2008, 06:37:06 PM »

BTW ...

You need to read the following thread:

http://www.eham.net/forums/MobileHam/9167

Getting rid of all the noise generated by the computers and power train on the Prius is an exercise in frustration. The Prius is NOT a radio-friendly vehicle.

73,

Lon - W3LK
Naugatuck, Connecticut
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N2RRA
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« Reply #3 on: May 17, 2008, 10:49:05 PM »

Dennis,

    I have a 2005 Prius which I have no problems at all running 80m-70cm with absolutely no problem what so ever. A few simple grounds make the world of difference is all that's needed and the worst advice, or info. are from people that know nothing from nothing on these review forums. My setup consists of an Icom 7000, running a Tarheel and Turbo Tuner. The other antenna is a Diamond CR-8900 A quad bander. The muck about transmissions stopping Prius's in their track also is a myth. Going on 4 years now strong with 55,000 miles. The EMI/RFI from the Prius does seem to effect the IC-706MK2G a bit more, but still then enjoyed HF.

http://www.n2rranyc.com/reborn_006.htm

Above is the link to my web site that shows a picture of me and my Prius mounted on the hatch back with Diamond K-400 series mounts still holding strong. Installation looks factory from what I've been told.

Enjoy your Prius, I do!
73!
Eric
N2RRA



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WA1HOG
Member

Posts: 2




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« Reply #4 on: May 19, 2008, 12:36:18 PM »

Thanks for the diamond 400 info. Ill head up to HRO and check them out.

As to the EMI problems. I am aware of them. On the HF bands you do have to clean up the EMI hash.  For the VHF/UHF bands i see no issues.

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K4NFG
Member

Posts: 45




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« Reply #5 on: May 19, 2008, 02:15:13 PM »

Hi Dennis, what brand antenna do you have?

I have gotten many years of reliable service from a Diamond 400 mount but some of the other brand antennas do not fit on it. I have a Comet antenna that I am using now on a Larsen mount. This antenna does not fit correctly on the Diamond mount. The center post on the Diamond NMO is very high. My Diamond antenna worked great, but the Comet does not fit.

Good luck,
John
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VE3XKD
Member

Posts: 51




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« Reply #6 on: May 21, 2008, 11:17:02 AM »

Hi

Here is a link to a homebrew mount idea for the Prius which makes use of the strong mounting bolts that hold the bracket for the rear hatch supporting struts: http://wa8lmf.net/mobile/prius/index.htm

I think that this is likely your best bet for an inexpensve, but strong mobile mount for the tri-band VHF/UHF array.

I have extensively tested the Prius for RFI noise. There should be no noise beyond about 20 Mhz, and with decent bonding/grounding, noise at 14Mhz can be reduced to about S2.

For those interested, a very good site describing the Prius DC-DC inverter technology is here: http://www.techno-fandom.org/~hobbit/cars/ginv/index.html

From my research to date, the DC-DC inverter needs to be opened up and additional shielding/bypassing needs to be done inside the inverter - unfortunately due to time commitments and constant work that takes me overseas to the conflict in Afghanistan, I have not had time to dwelve any further though I am hoping to get to it this summer.

If anyone has attempted to open and shield the DC-DC inverter - or, in particular has tried to bypass the 12VDC system at the Inverter or elsewhere, I would love to hear about it.

73, John, VE3XKD
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KA1OS
Member

Posts: 44




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« Reply #7 on: May 25, 2008, 09:33:43 PM »

WA8LMF's site referenced above is definitely worth examining. I'm planning to mount my 2m/70cm antenna similarly. As John mentions, the site has plans for a mount depicted in a .pdf file. I'm trying to find a nearby machinist that I can bribe with a six-pack to fabricate a couple of these mounts.

John, you wrote a note that Bruce Perens (K6BP) posted on his web pages (http://perens.com/works/hobbies/ham/prius/rfi/). Would you like to comment further? It sounds like you're investigating how to choke the noise on the 12V lines.

Also, about hatchback mounts, the ones secured to the edges around the top or upper side of the hatch: I've discussed this with other Prius-owning hams. There is some concern about bending the top lip of the hatch if the antenna gets a good 'thwack!' or some kid gives the antenna a strong tug.

Regards, Tim (KA1OS)
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VE3XKD
Member

Posts: 51




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« Reply #8 on: May 26, 2008, 10:51:46 AM »

Tim

Reducing the EMI/RFI noise from the Prius involves understanding the sources of noise, and eliminating them one by one.

First I identified the 'power-on' noise - that noise which occurs as a result of powering on the vehicle electronics, primarily the DC-DC converter.

The next noise identified source comes from the firing of the COP ignition system - see Alan's web pages for hints on reducing that. This noise will only be heard when the engine fires, so you don't hear it when the vehicle is powered on, but the engine not running

The next noise source identified comes from the regenerativre braking system. You actually have to be driving around, listening to HF to hear this noise. It appears to be easily solved (according to others - read the archives) by bonding the brake hubs to the chassis.

The final noise source comes from the electric engine.I have not yet worked on that one.

My strategy to reduce the noise was: Identification, then containment (shielding) and finally filtering, where possible. During the identification phase, myself, and others, reported lots of noise on the 12VDC system. This system has it's origins from the DC-DC converter. At first I tried shielding wires and the 12v battery, but there were far too many 12v wires to shield. I bought a used DC-DC converter- to act as a model to take apart, and upon examination, realized that the 12v section needed more effective shielding. I intend to open up the converter in my car, add in some ferrite beads inside the DC-DC converter, as well as add in a few bypass capacitors. This should reduce the noise. Be warned, this is not an easy job! You need to take out the DC-DC converter, drain the coolant in the center unit (the converter has three sections: top, middle and bottom), open it up, add in the filtering, and seal it back up. The seams of each unit require proper bonding. I used a lot of 3m 1181, but discovered that the foul winter weather here in Canada (and undoubtedly the road salt)has actually corroded much of the tape I installed. The next time (sometime this summer) I will put on the tape, then coat it with conductive paint in an effort to keep the copper foil intact.

Cheers



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