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Author Topic: Lead ins for ladder line  (Read 625 times)
KG6TOJ
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Posts: 27




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« on: January 31, 2005, 05:45:25 AM »

I have two multi-band dipoles and am leading them in through a window at present.  But this means leaving the window open a bit.  I need a permanent lead through.  

I notice that the two lines do not work well if run close together or touching, and do not like to touch my 2 meter coax antenna cable either.  I can lead them into an attic and somehow through the wall.

What are the best practices for leading ladder line into the house (i.e., through an exterior wall or leading through interior walls?  What is a neat way to create a wall plate, similar to a TV 300 Ohm installation or cable TV installation?
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WB2WIK
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Posts: 20595




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« Reply #1 on: January 31, 2005, 10:27:30 AM »

I use a 4" dryer vent (Home Depot, $2 or so).  The ladder line(s) are insulated from each other and from the aluminum vent itself using high density foam insulation packed around the lines as they go through the vent.  That same foam insulation also keeps out insects, mice or whatever else might try to come in!

Nice thing about a dryer vent, besides its very low cost, complete weatherproofing and great effectiveness for this use, is that everyone's house already has one, and some houses have two, so everyone is used to seeing the vent on the outside of the house and nobody questions what it's there for.  As such, when it comes time to move, just leave the vent in place and pull the cables through.

WB2WIK/6
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AA4PB
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Posts: 12836




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« Reply #2 on: January 31, 2005, 06:48:57 PM »

If you don't want to cut any holes you could make a plexiglass or plywood insert to close the window on. Put a couple of feed thru insulators in the insert to bring the wires thru.

Basically you need to maintain spacing between the wires and any conductive object of at least the spacing between the two wires.
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KF6IIU
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Posts: 293




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« Reply #3 on: February 02, 2005, 03:22:03 PM »

Like WB2WIK I made an insert for the bottom 10 inches of the window, then used binding posts through the plywood. The tails of the binding posts point outside and the lightning arrestor (an ICE ladder line model) is soldered directly to the binding posts.

Inside, a short length of ladder line terminated with two appropriately spaced banana plugs connects the tuner to the binding posts. I can quickly disconnect the equipment from the binding posts.

The only improvement that needs to be made is to clad the window insert with metal to make it into a true grounding bulkhead.

You will also need to devise some kind of locking mechanism so you can permanently leave the window partly open and still remain secure. Stout metal pins in the window frame work well for regular double hung windows.
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