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Author Topic: Amp for the FT-817ND  (Read 2404 times)
VA3API
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Posts: 66




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« on: December 01, 2009, 12:13:27 PM »

I am trying to find the company that sells the amp for the ft-817nd I believe they are in Japan.  

Any other reputable sellers of amps for the ft-817nd would be appreciated.

73 de VA3 API
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N5VTU
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Posts: 346




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« Reply #1 on: December 01, 2009, 12:19:04 PM »

http://www.thp.co.jp/english/index_ham_e.html
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VA3API
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Posts: 66




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« Reply #2 on: December 01, 2009, 01:05:30 PM »

Thank you so much..
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WB8UHZ
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Posts: 125




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« Reply #3 on: December 03, 2009, 06:47:51 AM »

Any small amp that meets FCC/DOT certification requirements will do. Don't waste your hard earned money on the illegal and cheap imports from RM Italy, Palomar etc. Those are so poorly made and JUNK, you won't be happy and neither will all other hams on the band with you, how should I say "splatter and crud" or IMD products. I would suggest Tokyo High Power. They advertise all the time in QST.

73 Tim
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KZ1X
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Posts: 3227




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« Reply #4 on: December 04, 2009, 01:37:23 PM »

http://site.hfprojectsyahoo.com/hf_packer-amp
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VA3API
Member

Posts: 66




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« Reply #5 on: December 06, 2009, 07:12:43 PM »

What would be your fav for the ft-817ND but 100 Watts.. I was very close to buying that amp you mentioned on ebay..

Thanks..
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AD4U
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Posts: 2150




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« Reply #6 on: December 09, 2009, 06:51:28 AM »

Several years ago I bought the Tokyo High Power 100BX?? amp for my 817.  I bought mine directly from Japan, when they did not market in the US.  It was not very expensive - $360 I think.  

This is a true HAM amp and gives 100 watts out for 5 watts in.  It also provides automatic band switching when connected to the 817.  It even has 6 meters.

Dick  AD4U
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VR2AX
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Posts: 575




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« Reply #7 on: December 09, 2009, 05:36:33 PM »

I also had a HL-100Bdx, which I recently sold. It as a very well constructed amp. I used it with a IC-703, although I think it is a better match for the FT-817, for two reasons.

First, as noted before, it includes automatic bandswitching with the 817. This is a real plus, and it only works with the 817 (the 703 and other QRP radios produce different band control voltages).

When you switch the amp on, without band control, it starts off in the 10/14mhz bandpass filter position, from memory. To change bands manually on the amp, you have to cycle the band change switch several times. To get from 10mhz to 7mhz requires many presses on the switch.

If you transmit on one band with the amp set to another band, the amp will fault almost immediately. It then emits an audible fault warning "BAND" (in CW). You then remember what you did wrong, and have toswitch the amp off and back on again.

Secondly, the amp does not require much drive to run to full output. Basically, it only requires 5 watts. The 10 watt drive position just inserts a 3db attenuator pad in the input. In fact, I found that mine would run to full output (100 watts) with less than 5 watts drive (in the 5 watt position) on many bands. Around 2.5-3 watts was enough on many of the bands.

If you overdrive, the amp will again fault quickly, you get a different audible warning (again in CW).

Overall, I liked it. It is a pity that there are so few quality QRP radios around to make the best use of it. The 817 is a bit long in the tooth now, and the 703 is discontinued (I just sold mine as well).

I also had a HL-45B, which is a 45 watt version, but sold that without ever using it so can't comment on its use.

VR2AX
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AD6KA
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Posts: 2232




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« Reply #8 on: December 13, 2009, 03:14:00 PM »

"What would be your fav for the ft-817ND but 100 Watts.."

I would roll my own. Seriously, the Tokyo HP sure is purdy,well made, and well reviewed. but ham radio is about building your own gear, when you can.

 The EB-63 and AN-762 are 12v 5w in 140 output "baord and parts only" kit from Communications Concepts:

http://www.communication-concepts.com/eb63.htm

http://www.communication-concepts.com/an762.htm

The AN-762 is a better amp, though it has no COR circuitry like the EB-63. It has a better bias control circuit, and can be built to put out 180 watts with some component and PA final transistor changes. There are no "Elecraft Style" assembly instructions, but the Application Notes and a sheet of tips they include will help you get either of them buil. You WILL have to drill and tap your own heat sink, not a hard job, and of course provide your own enclosure, connectors, wire,fuses, etc.

For a Low Pass Filter Board, I would build this nice full kit with all parts, PC board, and instructions from the HF Packer Group:

http://www.hfprojectsyahoo.com/kitlowpafimo.html

It covers 10m-160m. Text says it is rated at 100 watts (It is part of their 100 watt amp kit) but the designer, K5OOR, told me that it will handle 140 watts easily.

Like to include an SWR bridge and power meter? No problem! Check out the Elecraft W1 "mini-module" Computing Wattmeter and SWR bridge for $90.

http://www.elecraft.com/mini_module_kits/mini_modules.htm#w1

It's autoranging,covers 150mw to 140w and displays SWR and Output power simultaneously.

Easy build, works great and you can install it right inside your amp project enclosure.

So for a lot less money than the Tokyo High Power you get a great homebrew amp at your desired outboard power level......and learn a lot of new things along the way. Not to mention bragging rights of ".....amp here is homebrew".
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