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Author Topic: Lettering from the 40-50's?  (Read 7937 times)
G3RZP
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« Reply #15 on: May 03, 2012, 01:46:35 AM »

There's always decals. You can get the base material some place - I've seen it mentioned here. The only problem may be getting white printing on black rather than the reverse.
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W9GB
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« Reply #16 on: May 04, 2012, 07:24:24 AM »

Tom,

EZ Screen Print may be a good option, IF you have the graphics done.
http://ezscreenprint.com/

How-To Make an EZScreenPrint Stencil
http://ezscreenprint.com/how-tomakeastencil.aspx

How-To Video
http://ezscreenprint.com/how-tovideos.aspx
« Last Edit: May 04, 2012, 07:26:48 AM by W9GB » Logged
W0FM
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Posts: 2054




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« Reply #17 on: May 29, 2012, 02:31:38 PM »

Create the labels on your computer using any fonts that you like.  Then laser or inkjet print on this decal stock (white on clear for your black radio).  Water transfer to the radio panel and use the fixer to protect it.  Great stuff.

 http://www.micromark.com/decaling.html

73,

Terry, WØFM
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W4OP
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« Reply #18 on: May 29, 2012, 07:31:47 PM »

The white paper is a background color- the lettering/graphics would  still be in black or color.
I don't think that white decal paper would look very good on a black cabinet.

Dale W4OP
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G3RZP
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« Reply #19 on: May 29, 2012, 11:19:11 PM »

A naive question, but can you get a printer cartridge that does white ink?
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KD0REQ
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Posts: 900




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« Reply #20 on: May 30, 2012, 10:03:08 AM »

never seen one.  that would be silkscreen on chassis, or if decals, letterprint on the decal stock.

back in the 80s, if you looked really really hard, you could still find duplicating stencil material, you know, the blue sheet for the ink-loaded mimeo machines.  I tried using that in a dot matrix printer with orange acrylic paint on circuit boards in college for a project.

poor results.  the material was coarse and depended on ink bleed to make complete letters.

the predominant forms of lettering on the old broadcast stuff I encountered in my callow youth were engraved and enamel filled (sometimes repaired with wax crayon,) or silkscreened and occasionally overcoated with lacquer for protection.  we did have some homebrew stuff at WDAY where they used the laminated plaque material; one of the early shops to do badges and stuff with that was one block over and two blocks down.
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W0FM
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« Reply #21 on: May 30, 2012, 02:22:16 PM »

Micro-mark recommends an "Alps printer" for creating decals which require white or metallic letters on clear background.  Their info says that many office copy centers have access to Alps printers.  So for white on clear sheets you might have to create your lettering and take the file to a local copy center.

I found decals for my old Philco cathederal restoration that were metallic gold with black trim on clear decal backing sheets.  Probably done on an "Alps" printer.

http://www.micromark.com/html_pages/instructions/decal-inst.pdf

Terry, WØFM
« Last Edit: May 30, 2012, 02:27:31 PM by W0FM » Logged
W0FM
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« Reply #22 on: May 30, 2012, 02:34:45 PM »

Alps printers on Amazon.com.  White ink cartridges.


http://www.amazon.com/Alps-Printer-Cartridge-Md-1000-White/dp/B0000511MP/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1338413582&sr=1-8

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W4OP
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« Reply #23 on: May 30, 2012, 07:00:04 PM »

Although the Alps dye sub cartridges are still available, I seem to recall Alps got out of the printer biz in 2007 or so.
I had seen a blurb saying one of the current printer manufacturers had a white ink cartridge, but I was never able to track it down.

Recently, I did the artwork for a KW Electronics KW-1000 front panel (grey with white lettering) and sent it off to a friend. He silks screened the panel and I must say, it is at least as good as the original.

Dale W4OP
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W0FM
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« Reply #24 on: June 01, 2012, 11:04:34 AM »

Dale,

From what I've seen of your remarkable collection and restoration talents, I would love to have a friend who did silk-screening to ship my projects off to.  All of your gear looks top notch.  If I can find a cheap Alps, I might give their white cartridge a try on the clear decal backing.  In the past, I've used the Datak dry transfer letters with decent results.  But that, of course, was usually when using the sheets with ham radio or electronic jargon already lined up and spaced out (words like SQUELCH, GAIN, TUNING, etc).  I have done few projects where I was forced to do one Datak letter at a time and it took forever because each had to be lined up and spaced perfectly before transfer.  UGH.  But, my college classes in Commercial Art came in handy for those.  Back then (no computers) every thing was hand lettered by the artist.  Not sure I could pull that off today.  ;o)

73,

Terry, WØFM
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W4OP
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« Reply #25 on: June 01, 2012, 11:25:37 AM »

Hi Terry,
Contact John at:  jlandrigan@pol.net

Excellent silk screening  and great pricing.

Dale W4OP
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W0FM
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« Reply #26 on: June 04, 2012, 11:49:07 AM »

Many thanks Dale!

Terry
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