It isn't as simple as "certain line lengths to avoid".

There are two considerations. The one that lead to tables of line lengths in the Handbook was

based on the opportunity for common mode currents. What most people forgot was that this

table was based on a particular set of assumptions that most stations did NOT meet. A great

theoretical exercise, but one with little practical application unless you have a perfect RF ground

right at the rig. The lengths will be different in practice, depending on many factors. But in the

real world those lengths don't work any better or worse than anything else.

The other is the impedance seen by the tuner. In this case you need to know the impedance

of the antenna on each band, the length of the coax, and the matching range of the tuner

you are using. If your tuner works best with low impedance loads (for example, a coax tuner

followed by a 1 : 1 balun) the line lengths will be different than with something like a Johnson

Matchbox, which is better in the 600 - 1000 ohm range. And in both cases you would want

different lengths depending on your antenna - a large loop will have present different impedances

to the feedline than a doublet.

So the best you can do is to look at the impedance of your antenna on each band (either based

on some reasonable guestimates or a computer model) and, for each band, run it through a

transmission line calculator (like VK1OD's here:

http://www.vk1od.net/calc/tl/tllc.php) to see

what the impedance is at the tuner end of the line. If that impedance is in the range that

your tuner can match efficiently, you're good on that band.

Instead of all this analysis, most hams just set up the antenna and a convenient length of

twinlead to reach the tuner and see how it works. If they have trouble matching on one or

more bands they add some extra feedline and try again.

But you can't make any general statements about what length will work without knowing the

details of both the antenna and the tuner you plan to use with it.