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Author Topic: House bracket and vinyl siding  (Read 10123 times)
NZ0T
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Posts: 76




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« on: January 09, 2011, 07:29:19 AM »

I'm trying to plan ahead, for a change, for raising my tower this spring.  I plan to house bracket the 25G through the wall into the attic in the usual way but this house has vinyl siding that is backed by foam insulation and then the original wood siding from 1885.  Any ideas on how I can attach the bracket snugly without crushing the siding and vinyl?  My first thought is to use a piece of 2 X 6 over the siding to spread the force out.  I really don't want to remove the siding and foam but maybe that's the only way.

73 Bill NZ0T
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K1CJS
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« Reply #1 on: January 09, 2011, 07:58:39 AM »

If you want a good, solid installation, removing the siding and foam is the only way.  The trick is to remove the pieces of siding just where the bracket is going to go, and then removing just enough of the foam to allow the leg flats of the bracket to contact the house.  Trim the foam and glue it onto the area you removed it from, then measure and slot the siding to allow the legs of the bracket to go through the siding.

Its going to taka a bit of work--remember to measure twice and cut once--but if done properly, you'll have an installation that is solid AND looks professional.  By that, I mean it will look like the siding installation company cut the siding to go around the bracket legs.
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KH6AQ
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« Reply #2 on: January 09, 2011, 08:45:50 AM »

You might want to forgo attaching the tower to house.
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AA4PB
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« Reply #3 on: January 09, 2011, 11:23:35 AM »

You need to provide additional support for the bracket other than just attaching it to the siding. I'd cut the vinyl siding to permit a 2x6 to fit flat against the original wood siding, long enough to be attached to two studs. Put metal flashing or vinyl J channel on the top of the 2x6 to prevent leaks and caulk with silicone. Inside the attic, attach an additional 2x6 and fasten it to several (at least 4 or 5) studs. Attach the bracket with bolts long enough to go thru both 2x6 and place large washers and nuts on the inside. Do not depend on screws or lag bolts to hold the assembly together.

One issue with attaching to the house is that noise from the rotor brake or shaking of wires or Yagi elements may be transferred into the house. In addition, slight movement during high winds may cause "creaks" and drywall nail pops in the inside of the wall where it is attached.
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NZ0T
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« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2011, 12:34:00 PM »

This will be the 3rd house I have used the house bracket on so I know how to attach it securely but I appreciate the input anyway.  The previous 2 times I didn't have to deal with vinyl siding thus my question.  I'll plan on removing the siding and insulation - there is extra siding in the barn so I can always replace what was cut out if the tower needs to be moved.

Thanks again!
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AA4PB
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« Reply #5 on: January 09, 2011, 03:44:43 PM »

Just think in terms of how builders attach the ledger board for a deck to a house with vinyl siding.
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AB4D
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« Reply #6 on: January 09, 2011, 03:53:35 PM »

The last house where I used a bracket for 25g and had vinyl siding. I removed the siding where I wanted to install the bracket, installed a piece of solid 1/2 inch thick 4 inch wide vinyl lumber on the exterior wood sheathing that was a little longer than the house bracket mounting flange. I trimmed out the vinyl board with J-Channel and then reinstalled the siding, trimmed to fit into the channel.  This approach works best if installed right in the middle of a horizontal seam where two pieces of siding meet, so the bottom siding panel can be slid up from the bottom into the channel and nailed in place, and the top panel can be slid down into the channel before being nailed.

The vinyl board provides a nice flat surface to mount the bracket and the J-Channel gives a nice finished appearance. I do not know what information others are basing their opinion, when they say don't use a house bracket.  I too have used house brackets with 25g, as have many others, and I've never read anything that suggests they are problematic. A search of the groups here and across the net, have yielded no information to support a conclusion that they are not safe when installed properly.  I was unable to find any instance of failure when installed properly.  I did find one instance of damage to an incomplete tower installation of 25g, but even there, the house bracket held the tower up.

Good luck with your tower project, I too will be installing Rohn 25G in the same manner as a second tower for my station.

73  
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W3KC
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« Reply #7 on: January 11, 2011, 01:18:47 PM »

For a neat vinyl siding interface install, you might consider
"Maine Deck Brackets" at the interface.  They are very heavy duty.

73 de W3KC
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AA4PB
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« Reply #8 on: January 11, 2011, 01:25:24 PM »

One issue with attaching to the house is that noise from the rotor brake or shaking of wires or Yagi elements may be transferred into the house. In addition, slight movement during high winds may cause "creaks" and drywall nail pops in the inside of the wall where it is attached.

Based on personal experience. I'm not saying don't do it, but be prepared for the possible issue with noise. It likely depends on the house and location of the tower.

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NZ0T
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« Reply #9 on: January 12, 2011, 12:40:04 PM »

One issue with attaching to the house is that noise from the rotor brake or shaking of wires or Yagi elements may be transferred into the house. In addition, slight movement during high winds may cause "creaks" and drywall nail pops in the inside of the wall where it is attached.

Based on personal experience. I'm not saying don't do it, but be prepared for the possible issue with noise. It likely depends on the house and location of the tower.



Again, this is the 3rd house I will use the house bracket on and I am well aware of the noise/movement issue.   The house is a 125 year old 2 story one and very sturdily built.  I plan to put the bracket as high as possible so there will not be a lot of the 40' tower extending above the bracket which should limit the movement and noise.  The ground here is very rocky and I really don't want to dig the hole required for a stand alone tower so using a smaller base and the bracket is much preferred.  Thanks for the input!
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W1ADR
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« Reply #10 on: January 12, 2011, 06:05:09 PM »

Good Evening. The best and simplest method is to use a small hole saw of about 2 inches in diameter and drill down to a depth of the backing wood and remove the vinyl and foam plug pieces at each of the points of the support bracket mounting locations. The next step is to make a 2 inch diameter plug with a hole in it's center which corresponds to the mounting bolt diameter for the bracket and whose thickness or depth length is such that it protrudes at least 1/2 inch above the vinyl surface. The plug can be made either of a hard wood such as oak, phenolic or aluminm, whichever is easiest to procure. The mount can now be installed with the made up plug and a through bolt providing the necessary hard point or stud feature allowing for a good clamp up without damaging or compromising the siding. After securing all mount bolts, apply a bead of caulking around the extended periphery of the plugs for watertightness sealing.

73's W1ADR
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NZ0T
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« Reply #11 on: January 13, 2011, 12:24:11 PM »

Thank you - that sounds like a great way to do it!
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