Call Search
     

New to Ham Radio?
My Profile

Community
Articles
Forums
News
Reviews
Friends Remembered
Strays
Survey Question

Operating
Contesting
DX Cluster Spots
Propagation

Resources
Calendar
Classifieds
Ham Exams
Ham Links
List Archives
News Articles
Product Reviews
QSL Managers

Site Info
eHam Help (FAQ)
Support the site
The eHam Team
Advertising Info
Vision Statement
About eHam.net

   Home   Help Search  
Pages: Prev 1 [2] 3 Next   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: How to mount electronics in Pelican Case  (Read 34806 times)
AE5JU
Member

Posts: 230




Ignore
« Reply #15 on: July 30, 2011, 02:27:16 PM »

Not so much that it needs to be waterproof, but that the equipment be protected while transporting.  A ziplock bag won't do that.

And yes, it must be open to use.  Open the lid, plug in the coax, plug in power, whether to batteries or A/C from a generator, I can do both.  Under the lift up mounting plate is a 2-gallon ziplock with message pads, note pad, fuses, some female-female SO-239 "barrel connectors", pens (for the 'digital logging program' aka notepad), 10' 10ga zip cable with Anderson Powerpoles to connect to gel cells (RBC-6's in parallel), and other assorted necessities.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/AFreeMan/DailyReviewFieldDay6-28-10.jpg
« Last Edit: August 28, 2011, 06:10:42 PM by AE5JU » Logged
W5DQ
Member

Posts: 1209


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #16 on: August 01, 2011, 03:37:18 PM »

I'm a bit late to this thread but I haven't seen anyone mention about heat build up when operating the equipment inside the case. I am having a bit of a problem visualizing how the final config might be but if there is no airflow, it won't matter since the equipment will probably overheat anyway?

Just curious?
Logged

Gene W5DQ
Ridgecrest, CA - DM15dp
www.radioroom.org
LA9XSA
Member

Posts: 376




Ignore
« Reply #17 on: August 02, 2011, 05:33:01 AM »

During operation the case is left open. I guess you could create vents and cable entries to operate the radio with the case closed, but then you'd lose water proofing and protection against knocks and pressure during shipping.
Logged
AE5JU
Member

Posts: 230




Ignore
« Reply #18 on: August 02, 2011, 02:08:46 PM »

W5DQ, Take a look, the radio is operated with the case open.  No difference in cooling than if sitting on a desk.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/AFreeMan/DailyReviewFieldDay6-28-10.jpg
Logged
K7RBW
Member

Posts: 398




Ignore
« Reply #19 on: August 02, 2011, 07:43:51 PM »

One of the big attractions of the Pelican case for me is it's durability and how well it protects the gear inside. I've used them to transport electronics (radios and camera gear) for over 15 worry-free years. When I have gear packed in the foam, I don't worry about people treating it like it's from a luggage ad (e.g. tossed around by gorillas). Looking at some of the different radio-mounting arrangements here and elsewhere, however, makes me wonder if that protection and durability are lost when the radios are hard-mounted to the case.

My question to those who have mounted the gear to the case, do you treat the case with care or can you still toss it around like so many gorilla toys?
Logged
AA4PB
Member

Posts: 12907




Ignore
« Reply #20 on: August 03, 2011, 07:44:23 AM »

makes me wonder if that protection and durability are lost when the radios are hard-mounted to the case.

Unless the radios are shock mounted to the case you will certainly loose much of the protection. The question then becomes how much shock can the radios withstand?  For most ham gear I would say not very much. Internal components are likely to break loose.
Logged
AE5JU
Member

Posts: 230




Ignore
« Reply #21 on: August 03, 2011, 10:56:25 AM »

We're not in a war zone tossing gear out of a helicoptor, nor are we roadies in a rock band.

You can take the time to be careful how you handle the gear.
Logged
KJ4KLM
Member

Posts: 19




Ignore
« Reply #22 on: July 08, 2012, 06:33:44 PM »

Wouldn't the same shock risk be there in the gator cases when mounting the radios to the shelves in the case?  I would think so unless you want to purchase the military grade rack mount cases with shock mounts. Those are much larger and heavier and much more expensive.  Also, when considering the gator cases, their footprint on the table is just as large or larger than the Pelican 1550.

 I am in the later stages of an almost identical project to the original poster and am wrestling with many of the same mounting issues.  I am using the identical radios you are using, TS-480SAT and a TM-D710A. I have a Samlex 1235, RigRunner, PwrGuard, Super PwrGate, all under the custom cut panel. The panel is custom cut to move all the radio ports to the surface so they are accessible for paddle, computer hookup, Antenna hookup, headphones, Microphones, and for bridging the two radio for cross band between HF and V/Uhf.  As for the head I have designed a cavity and 16x 4 opening in the panel. There is an aluminum plate which covers this opening and screws on with thumbscrews at each end.  The radio heads are mounted on this panel. For storage this panel comes off and I flip over the panel and mount it over the opening with the heads down inside the case, and secured with the thumb screws. For operation I flip the panel  the other way up and screw it down with the same thumb screws and have the heads right there at the front of of the case. I have surplus gas springs to hold the lid up at a 90 degree angle and keep it from flopping down on the heads and damaging them.  I have a magnetic white board mounted on the top for notes, tracking teams,  with a Powerwerx LED light for night operation mounted above it. I have a dual time clock mounted in the upper right hand corner of the whiteboard.  For the cooling issue, I have two 12v fans, One blowing into the cavity beneath the panel, and one drawing out. The air inside is exchanged about once every 4 seconds. The temperature is monitored/displayed and the fans are controlled by a digital controller from Coolerguys.com.

I have purchased and dry fitted most all the components except the panel and am trying to decide how to mount the hardware to the bottom of the case.  The fit is quite tight and to allow airflow I need to keep certain stacked components with space above and below.  Thus there is really no clearance left for any shock padding on the bottom of the case.  This does concern me a bit when it comes to shock protection.  I would love to see pictures of your ultimate solution and layout under the panel.
Logged
K7RBW
Member

Posts: 398




Ignore
« Reply #23 on: July 09, 2012, 12:48:24 AM »

We're not in a war zone tossing gear out of a helicoptor, nor are we roadies in a rock band.

You can take the time to be careful how you handle the gear.

I might have agreed with you until this last field day. I use the pelican case for transport only so it has the foam inserts cut for the radio and power supply, etc. Setting up the antennas was (and always are) what takes the most time to set up. Setting up the radio involved taking it out of the case and connecting it to the battery and antenna (or tuner). On our field day adventure, our camp was hit by a wind and rainstorm that sent us scurrying to protect (and hang on to) our gear. I was glad to have the watertight, padded case because we were packing and tossing as fast as we could (as our camp was being washed away out from under us).

Every application is unique, however, in my case, using the case as padded, watertight transport seems to be the more frequent case. It's nice to know that in a pinch (or a rainstorm) I can pack up the gear in just a couple of minutes and have it safe from wind, rain, and being tossed in the back of the truck.

RE: the gator cases per
Also, when considering the gator cases, their footprint on the table is just as large or larger than the Pelican 1550.
That's true. They do take up the same space on the table. The difference is that you operate out of the top of a Pelican case while you operate out of the front of a Gator or SKB case. Also, you can stack the Gator/SKB cases if you have a modular system: e.g. one case for radios, one case for computer or video monitors, one case whatever else, etc. Whether that's important, depends on your station configuration.
« Last Edit: July 09, 2012, 12:57:23 AM by K7RBW » Logged
AA4PB
Member

Posts: 12907




Ignore
« Reply #24 on: July 09, 2012, 05:56:22 AM »

We're not in a war zone tossing gear out of a helicoptor, nor are we roadies in a rock band.

You can take the time to be careful how you handle the gear.

That assumes that you will always personally handle your gear. In some disaster situations you may very well find "roadies" tossing your gear into the back of a truck for transportation to the needed area. It all depends on what you are designing to.

Logged
K7RBW
Member

Posts: 398




Ignore
« Reply #25 on: July 09, 2012, 12:07:41 PM »

One problem with using pelican case or road cases is that to the unsuspecting baggage handler, they look like they can be tossed around without damaging the contents. If they can't be tossed around, they should be marked as such (but who reads labels like "Fragile" or "Handle with care" when they are on a road case?). Best not to let them out of your sight.
Logged
AE5JU
Member

Posts: 230




Ignore
« Reply #26 on: October 17, 2012, 10:28:58 AM »

"Everyone please be aware that drilling your Pelican case voids the warranty on the case if it is damaged."

What do I care?  The case is for the radio, not the other way around.

I did countersink and use flathead screws, but put some E6000 sealer under the screw heads as I assembled.  Also used locking nuts.  I want it to not leak, such as moving it while being rained on, but don't expect it to float around with the radio gear totally dry during a tsunami.

The Icom 718, Samlex SEC-1223 power supply are both screwed to a 1/8" aluminum plate which is hinged in the case.  Under the mounting plate is storage for fuses, manuals, various connectors, message pads, etc.

The plate hinges up, angling the radio gear for good visiblity, and locks at that angle.  I did not go to extremes of shock mounting as I don't intend to toss it out of helicopters or off the back of a deuce and a half.  I intend to carry it.

So why go to all this trouble?  The way it is mounted in the case, I simply open the case, plug the antenna coax into the back of the IT-100 tuner (automatic, no need for SWR meter, the tuner knows what it is).  I can run a power cord for 120 vac if that is available, or under the tray, 10 ga zip cord with Anderson Powerpoles for my gel cell batteries or clamps to a car, atv, lawn tractor, or boat battery.  I can literally set up in seconds and be on the air.  All jumpers are connected, all the plumbing done already.  One less thing I have to worry about.

I have several quick to deploy antennas depending on the situation.  I've used it sitting on the tailgate of my pickup in a schoolyard in the middle of the night, in the city park on a small fold up table, in the judging stands used for boat races (hydros!) on the edge of town, and other special event locations.  It can be set up, quite literally, in a few minutes.
Logged
NK7Z
Member

Posts: 847


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #27 on: October 17, 2012, 10:43:54 AM »

Epoxy?
Logged

Thanks,
Dave
For reviews and setups see: http://www.nk7z.net
WB6BYU
Member

Posts: 13353




Ignore
« Reply #28 on: October 17, 2012, 04:07:32 PM »

Our equipment is mounted on a piece of plywood in the bottom of the case, given room to
store cables and other typical debris below it.  (I think it sits on blocks of wood top and
bottom to hold it in place when the lid is closed.)

The plywood has rope handles on it, so it can be lifted out of the case and put on a table
when available, or on top of the case when necessary.  Or operated from inside the case.

What I'd do differently next time:

     Not include the battery in the main case.  That makes it too have for some
     folks to haul around, particularly up flights of stairs.  Better to make two
     trips if needed.

     Provide external connections for power.  I have to leave the case open in my barn
     to leave it on charge.  I'd rather have a recessed power jack on the outside so
     I can store it with the case closed and still keep the batteries charged.
     There are waterproof chassis-mount Anderson connectors available that could be
     used for AC or DC.
Logged
AE5JU
Member

Posts: 230




Ignore
« Reply #29 on: October 17, 2012, 09:14:49 PM »

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a384/PaulCoats/20HFGoKit.jpg


Updated photo liink.

Paul - AE5JU
Logged
Pages: Prev 1 [2] 3 Next   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!