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Author Topic: 2 feet left of two ground rods! Any hints to pound them the rest of the way???  (Read 2924 times)
KB3MDT
Member

Posts: 193




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« Reply #15 on: April 09, 2011, 07:23:53 PM »

Hi,
   Leave the sledge hammer by the grounding rods.  Put up a little sign - Don't hit the grounding rods!.   The kids in the neighborhood will finish the job for you.    Sorry, I just had to add my 2 cents.   

73
Ken
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W5ER
Member

Posts: 74




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« Reply #16 on: April 09, 2011, 09:08:06 PM »

I hope that everyone calls their local "ONECALL" the utility marker service, they come out and mark where your underground utility lines are located.  IT'S FREE.   If you are butting up against a deep gas, water or sewer line that next tap just might casy you a lot more than you are wanting to part with.   I am aware that most utility lines are not 8 feet deep but why take a chance.

73
Ed W5ER
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VA2FSQ
Member

Posts: 510




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« Reply #17 on: April 10, 2011, 01:59:11 PM »

Well it's done. I had to cut off 2 feet from one and a foot and a half from the other but they are now all connet with 6 gauge wire and there's a coil where the electrical wires come in.  This is another question:  How does the wire come into the home and connect to the panel?  Does one need conduit or straight through the cement foundation is ok?  Where does it connect at the panel?  Does it connect to the same place as the other grounds?

Thanks
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VA2FSQ
WB2WIK
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Posts: 20547




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« Reply #18 on: April 10, 2011, 03:01:43 PM »

I've run into this hundreds of times.

1.  Develop better aim.

2.  If you can't drive a rod in eight feet, move the rod a bit and start over.

I've found many times I only had to move the location six inches to find a better place without a big rock in the way. Cheesy
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AC5UP
Member

Posts: 3825




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« Reply #19 on: April 10, 2011, 03:06:02 PM »

Quote
This is another question:  How does the wire come into the home and connect to the panel?

Copper wire can react chemically with concrete and mortar although some sources will claim the reaction is slow enough as to be negligible. In any case, best bet is to drill a hole large enough to accommodate a PVC pipe or similar as a sleeve between concrete and copper. If you have a brick exterior you may find you can't drill the brick so look for a wide spot in the mortar.

On a typical breaker panel, remove the cover and look near the top for the service entry wires. Two wires will be insulated with a third bare aluminum wire connected to a lug near the center of the panel. The bare wire is ground. Any good electrical supply store will have clips & brackets that allow a second wire to be piggybacked onto a service lug. Needless to say, the service entry lugs can smoke your ass in less than a heartbeat so a decent pair of gloves, insulated tools, and a healthy respect for Reddy Kilowatt is a good idea.

Also... Be sure the service ground is securely connected after you're finished 'cuz if that one starts to lose contact your lights and appliances will do some very, very strange things.
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Never change a password on a Friday                
VA2FSQ
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Posts: 510




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« Reply #20 on: April 11, 2011, 03:50:06 PM »

Thanks for those tips.  I guess it is not needed to have a conduit for the bare copper wire entering the panel?
If that's all it is, I can do this work myself.  I have plenty of experience around power panels.

Thanks
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VA2FSQ
W8JX
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Posts: 5478




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« Reply #21 on: April 11, 2011, 04:29:16 PM »

I ran a heavy bare pure copper wire through block wall over 20 years ago and I still cannot see any degradation on it going into wail or out.  I think conduit is kinda overkill here. A Aluminum wire would be a whole different game though.
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