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Author Topic: 97 Subaru Outback install  (Read 4527 times)
CTHAM
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« on: August 31, 2011, 09:46:08 AM »

I haven't got the radio yet because I can't figure out where I can place the remote head at since the radio is a double din.. one thing I was thinking was put the remote on the side of the dash (passenger side) using 3M superlock tape.. however I've only used it on glass so not sure how it would hold on the soft dash trim.
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K5LXP
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« Reply #1 on: August 31, 2011, 02:21:10 PM »

I've heard screws work pretty well.


Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM
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K0BG
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« Reply #2 on: August 31, 2011, 03:35:23 PM »

It won't!

Vinyl is made up of several polymers, all of which weep over time, especially in hot weather. The glue on super velcro, stick down mounts like Kenwood uses for their 480, and most Lido and similar mounts, just let loose.

As Mark stated, screws are the preferred choice. No, they don't have to be seen, and there are a bunch of ways to hide them, if you just take you time. You might want to visit my web site, and look around.
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CTHAM
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« Reply #3 on: August 31, 2011, 07:11:06 PM »

I'm not going to screw into the dash not only because I will have holes but the placement would be in the way when I ran my GPS on the window.

I think I will try the 3M stuff first it's not like the cheap Velcro stuff you are thinking about.

http://www.andybaird.com/travels/gertie/superlock.htm

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-Industrial/Adhesives/Promotions-New-Products/Reclosable-Fasteners/
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W2RI
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« Reply #4 on: September 01, 2011, 05:08:57 AM »

There are plenty of options for the remote head that don't require screws in the dash - have you considered a suction mount? Or a gooseneck mount attached to the seat frame?
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K0BG
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« Reply #5 on: September 01, 2011, 06:12:33 AM »

There are about a jillion options which don't require holes to be drilled. However.....

The top of the dash is one of those areas you shouldn't use. The passenger airbag covers virtually all of it, except the area in front of the steering wheel. This negates suction cup mounts, or any area to the right of center.

There are at least 4 companies making goose neck mounts which attach to a seat bolt. They tend to work well in most installs, except off-road applications.

There are cup holder mounts too, but those should be screwed down, not wedged in.

It pays to think about safe operation, as well as operating safe!
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K5LXP
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« Reply #6 on: September 02, 2011, 06:49:25 AM »

I'm not going to screw into the dash not only because I will have holes

You won't see the holes because there will be screws in them.


Quote
the placement would be in the way when I ran my GPS on the window.

I only use my GPS on trips.  If it were something I'd need all the time, I'd come up with a way to accommodate both the radio and the GPS at the same time.


Quote
I think I will try the 3M stuff first it's not like the cheap Velcro stuff

I'm pretty fond of the Scotch dual lock stuff and I use it for a lot of things.  I don't think it's well suited for mounting a control head on a dashboard though unless it's perfectly flat and you can get a fair amount of surface area to make contact.  Then the problem becomes getting the head on and off, because you can't just "peel" it off, it would need to be pried.  If the intent is to leave it in place, then the dual lock is superfluous, just screw the bracket in and be done with it.

If you're not fond of the idea of having screw holes in the dash, you're really not going to like what happens when you try and get the goo off from a patch of dual lock.


Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM
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KB1TXK
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« Reply #7 on: September 02, 2011, 07:05:13 AM »

Take it from someone who owns a couple Subies in your generation (1999 outback sport, 2001 forester)....velcro/tape/whatever isn't going to stay very long at all.

If your double-DIN stereo is single-CD, ditch it and get a single-DIN stereo. Same if your stereo is 6-CD and you never use all 6 CDs.  You can get a cheapish aftermarket stereo w/ an AUX jack and rip your CDs to a cheap MP3 player..and MP3 players don't skip over large bumps.  Now you have space under the stereo to mount a single-DIN rig.

Unless you have a bit of OCD...don't worry about the screws.  Subaru's look better w/ a bit of damage anyways.  They're built to take a beating Wink

Note: Do NOT touch any wiring harness that is yellow. Those are for the airbag system.  At best you could inadvertently disable it, at worst you could DEPLOY the airbags while you're monkeying about in the cabin.  You may also notice a green harness under the steering wheel area thats disconnected. DONT RECONNECT IT (unless you'd like an instrument panel light-show)

Also...if you replace the stereo w/ something smaller and mount your rig under it...you won't look like a roaming Radio Shack to would-be thieves when you park places.

The gooseneck mount idea is a great one too, because you can move it easier if you need it to get out of the way and its a less violent install.


EDIT: Also...do you have the dashboard-top storage area (w/ the lid that opens/closes) and do you use it for anything other than kethcup packets and speeding/parking tickets?
« Last Edit: September 02, 2011, 07:07:24 AM by KB1TXK » Logged

CTHAM
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« Reply #8 on: September 02, 2011, 08:08:53 PM »

I'm not going to screw into the dash not only because I will have holes

You won't see the holes because there will be screws in them.


Quote
the placement would be in the way when I ran my GPS on the window.

I only use my GPS on trips.  If it were something I'd need all the time, I'd come up with a way to accommodate both the radio and the GPS at the same time.


Quote
I think I will try the 3M stuff first it's not like the cheap Velcro stuff

I'm pretty fond of the Scotch dual lock stuff and I use it for a lot of things.  I don't think it's well suited for mounting a control head on a dashboard though unless it's perfectly flat and you can get a fair amount of surface area to make contact.  Then the problem becomes getting the head on and off, because you can't just "peel" it off, it would need to be pried.  If the intent is to leave it in place, then the dual lock is superfluous, just screw the bracket in and be done with it.

If you're not fond of the idea of having screw holes in the dash, you're really not going to like what happens when you try and get the goo off from a patch of dual lock.


Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM

haha for some reason my email notification are not working anyways I know how large the air bag is for the passenger side is since I totaled one of my Subaru's last year it's large enough to knock the rear view mirror off.. mater of fact I saved the passenger bag. I know pretty much the ins and out of the Subaru (pulled the motor 2 weeks ago for work) So I know which wires to avoid Smiley

having said that I don't want to put holes in the dash because once I take the head off the holes will show.

the dual lock separates at I think 20 lb/inch

btw I've never seen googly stuff from the dual lock mater of fact ezpass puts the stuff on the tag readers that you use on your windshield, I had to pull mine off when I totaled the car and it had a good bond, but then again it was glass..

What's the weight of most of the remote heads anyways?
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W3LK
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« Reply #9 on: September 03, 2011, 09:14:06 AM »

Quote
having said that I don't want to put holes in the dash because once I take the head off the holes will show.

You worry about holes in a 14 year old vehicle???

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but your vehicle has virtually NO trade-in value as it is.
« Last Edit: September 03, 2011, 09:19:02 AM by W3LK » Logged

A smoking section in a restaurant makes as much sense as a peeing section in a swimming pool.
CTHAM
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« Reply #10 on: September 03, 2011, 09:26:02 AM »

And that's why I don't post here folks..
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W3LK
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« Reply #11 on: September 03, 2011, 12:23:12 PM »

And that's why I don't post here folks..

Sorry the advice you are getting from experienced installers isn't what you want to hear. Some ideas are simply bad ideas.

BTW, if you don't want holes left when you remove the head, there are repair kits for cracks in dashboards that one can use to fill the holes - or you can simply put screws back in the holes. Smiley
« Last Edit: September 03, 2011, 12:28:24 PM by W3LK » Logged

A smoking section in a restaurant makes as much sense as a peeing section in a swimming pool.
K5LXP
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« Reply #12 on: September 04, 2011, 06:57:51 AM »

Yes, dual lock adhesive on glass is a different story.  Glass isn't porous but the textured surface of many dashboards is.  I've seen that stuff actually tear off the surface of a padded dash.

The advice you're getting is to put a control head on a dashboard - that's what YOU wanted.  Now, if you want to explore what other options there are, we can do that too.  A good one posted in this very thread is to ditch the 2-DIN AM/FM, put in a 1-DIN and gain a slot to recess-mount just about anything.  Keep the 2-DIN radio someplace for later reinstallation if you want.

Years ago I had a car that I gutted out the glove box and mounted everything inside there.  With the glove box open I had the transceiver, speaker, mic, and cord storage.  Close the glove box door and it all disappeared.

On my XYL's car I "repurposed" the (useless) drink holder into a drawer for the radio.  I have a photo of that on my web page:

<http://www.qsl.net/k5lxp/mobile/2Mmobile/2Mrig.html>

In my EV I bolted plywood to the dash, and that gave me a giant flat sturdy surface to screw anything I wanted into it:

<http://www.qsl.net/k5lxp/mobile/QSTarticle/dashwire.jpg>

There are also clever solutions for mounting brackets by affixing them in the hidden structure of the dash, like alongside AC vents and behind various panels and escutcheons.  All manner of methods you can employ if you're willing to put a little thought and effort into it.  I can agree that just zinging a few self-tappers in any old place would look terrible, but well done installation becomes a feature you will use and enjoy.  The last thing I'm worried about is what the next owner of my cars may like.


Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM
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AC4RD
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« Reply #13 on: September 04, 2011, 07:34:10 AM »

Years ago I had a car that I gutted out the glove box and mounted everything inside there.  With the glove box open I had the transceiver, speaker, mic, and cord storage.  Close the glove box door and it all disappeared.

:-)  I did that with my then-new Impala in 2002; pulled out the glove box plastic insides and bolted my 706's body to a strut inside the cavity.  Lots of room!   But when I traded in that car, I couldn't find the glovebox's interior stuff.  My wife was NOT happy about that.  :-/  But it worked fine, and I drove that car into the ground, so it didn't have much tradein value anyway.  :-)
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KJ4ADN
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« Reply #14 on: September 04, 2011, 12:48:18 PM »

I just traded off my Forester 2010 for a 2011 - forget the nonsense about holes, it doesn't make a difference - and I had 2 holes in the roof!  It's mileage that does it (we had 62k on ours, and it was time for EVERYTHING maintenance).

If you have that pocket on the bottom of the dash, next to the shifter, just bent a thin piece of aluminum in a 90 degree angle and mount the head to it, with the angled part extending into the pocket.  When I'm driving, I "talk" on the radio, and seldom ever look at the display.

We have the IC-7000 mounted in the rear, driver's side pocket, the head in the front, and 2 thru-the-roof mount antennas.
BTW, Subaru makes a really nice luggage rack cross-rail that can double as a support for some really hefty center loaded antennas.  Car + antenna = 13'.... and some interesting looks, but great performance.

KJ4ADN - Bill
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