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Author Topic: Building a Carolina Windom  (Read 2530 times)
KB3FFH
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Posts: 162




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« on: December 25, 2011, 05:28:55 AM »

I have read a lot of ways to build a 80mtr Carolina Windom. Can you tell me how and with what you used to build yours ? Thanks Bill
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WX7G
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Posts: 6136




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« Reply #1 on: December 25, 2011, 08:59:39 AM »

You will need a 4:1 VOLTAGE balun at the feedpoint and a 1:1 CURRENT balun at the ladder line to coax transition.

Radio Works sells the bits and pieces you will need as well as fully assembled Carolina Windoms.

        http://www.radioworks.com/

A suitable 4:1 voltage balun is the Radio Works B4-100, B4-1.5K or B4-2K. A suitable 1:1 curent balun, or as Radio Works calls it a Line Isolator, is the T-4 or T4-500.

Their catalog lists the antenna wire and ladder line lengths you will need. And you need a bit of 450 ohm ladder line.
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WB6BYU
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Posts: 13342




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« Reply #2 on: December 25, 2011, 12:06:21 PM »

Quote from: WX7G
You will need a 4:1 VOLTAGE balun at the feedpoint and a 1:1 CURRENT balun at the ladder line to coax transition.



I think you are getting confused with the G5RV:  the Carolina Windom doesn't use ladder line.  The
"vertical radiator" portion is coax.
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W1JKA
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Posts: 1773




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« Reply #3 on: December 26, 2011, 03:57:53 PM »

 
 

    I built the 40 meter version of the new Carolina windom as per ( Len Carlson K4IWL) internet design,as qrp cw/dx is my niche.I built it on the cheap,electric fence wire radiators,rat shack coax for Q section and feed line with the cheap MFJ 1:4 balun/1:1 choke.Mine is up 25 ft. E/W, fires off the ends stronger than broadside which is great for qrp dx to west coast USA and into Europe from Maine but not that great for local contacts here on the east coast.I work mostly 20/40 meters so I don't have to mess with a tuner, going into it's third Maine winter now without a failure of any part.The majority of my 2 by qrp contacts use  either a windom or homebrew hex beam.For its intended purpose its hard to beat.
                                                                                            Jim                                                                                                                                             
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WX7G
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Posts: 6136




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« Reply #4 on: December 26, 2011, 05:02:18 PM »

BYU you are right. I should have said a 1:1 current balun at the coax-to-coax transition. It appears that folks are building what they think are Carolina Windoms using 4:1 current baluns. That greatly reduces the feedline radiation (the vertically polarized) component yet they still like the results with their simple dipoles.
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WB6BYU
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Posts: 13342




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« Reply #5 on: December 26, 2011, 05:07:02 PM »

That's OK, the current in the "vertical radiator" doesn't actually contribute much anyway.  On
the bands where it is long enough to contribute anything, the rest of the antenna is high enough
above ground (in wavelengths) that the horizontal polarized radiation from the flat-top provides
most of the low angle radiation.  And on the lower bands where the antenna is electrically lower,
there isn't enough current in the wire to make much difference.

But it does help to improve the match on 15m if done properly.
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