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Author Topic: Gin pole needed  (Read 5813 times)
KK4JJF
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Posts: 18




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« Reply #15 on: May 04, 2012, 07:11:35 AM »

You paid for the tower BEFORE it was taken down? 

Consider that almost all tasks look easier than they turn out to be.  Putting up a new tower
is easier than taking down an old rusted one.  Also when you get the old tower down:
THEN you find all the hidden rusted places and hardware that needs to be replaced.
A new tower would have been cheaper in the  long run and a lot safer.
We've all been bitten one time or another.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do, you can't be TOO careful.
Allen


Well I paid half to hold the tower for me until I could come back.
BTW, The cost of the tower was $100, plus an addition $100 paid to a helper, plus whatever else i need to buy tonight.
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W4LGC
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Posts: 15




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« Reply #16 on: May 04, 2012, 03:47:20 PM »

At a young age (in 1978), I discovered how specialized tower work was, when companies continually offered to give me their towers, if I'd just take them down. Never have I paid for a used tower. In fact, with so much used tower on hand, I've never purchased a new section.

Having the right safety equipment, at least one knowledgeable ground crew assistant (that can follow directions), and lots of experience on towers, is a must. If you are at all apprehensive about the job; do not attempt it. And by all means, please do not substitute a real gin pole with a 2x4.

By the way, some old towers will require replacing all of the guy wires, one at a time, before taking the tower down. It only takes one bad guy breaking during the job, to bring the whole thing down in a matter of seconds. Think before you climb. 
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KK4JJF
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Posts: 18




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« Reply #17 on: May 05, 2012, 05:37:17 PM »

Update:

Well My helper and I went to get the tower, but I'm still towerless today. Once we got there I was better able to examine it due to better lighting, and didn't like what I saw. The tower had quite a bit of rust. Most of it appeared to be surface rust, but some higher areas appeared questionable. You know at this point a just don't want to deal with a restoration. I decided I no longer wanted it and the owner was a great sport, and offered all my money back. I got lucky!

So, I'm still in search of a tower, but now will narrow my focus. The tower must be already down, and must be rust free. New is an option but the shipping costs are an issue. What I really would like is a crank up tower in very good condition with litlle to no rust, and for a fair price. So far the only crank up in my area doesn't appear to be as good a deal as many other I see advertized in other areas of the country.

For example here's a local one: http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/for/2952480811.html

If anyone knows of a good deal in NE Florida give me a shout!
« Last Edit: May 05, 2012, 05:39:55 PM by WMACKY » Logged
AE2B
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Posts: 0




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« Reply #18 on: May 21, 2013, 01:29:37 PM »

IM LOOKING FOR A GIN POLE TOO HERE IN HUDSON FLORID. 35 MILES NW OF TAMPA. rHON WANTS 1000.00 THERE CRAZY!!!!!!!! A bracket and pully system in min. 200.00 on ebay and withy verl limited funds i ust cant do i. I have a free 70 ft. ron 25 twer n melbourne fl and ts mine for nothing if i take it down. These thins are ashard tfin as damoned
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N4UM
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Posts: 473




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« Reply #19 on: May 21, 2013, 05:23:12 PM »

I've used an aluminum ladder in the past for a gin pole.  Lash the ladder to the tower.  It's tedious because you have to lower the ladder each time you drop a section.  It can be done. With a couple of short 2x4's you can use a hydraulic car jack to force the sections apart. 

A gin pole and a tower jack are much safer.
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KV7W
Member

Posts: 136




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« Reply #20 on: May 22, 2013, 06:55:44 AM »

It was mentioned in this thread to use a crane - it's really the way to go. You don't even need much of a crane for 25g, a boom truck will do. The tower doesn't weigh much. It takes work to separate those sections on old towers - even with a jack. Not bad if you have a good gin pole and have lived in a harness, but most have not.

The hardest part is convincing the operator it can be done. They usually don't have a lot of experience with towers. They see a big stick they can't get their boom over, with a bunch of wires to get caught up in. The biggest problem they see is side load. The first thing they think is that the tower will have to be tilted over. This puts side stress on their boom and gives the possibility that their cable could pop off the sheave. That could mean a costly cable repair. 

If you can convince them - when they do it the right way once they won't ever have a problem doing it again.

It usually takes longer to set the outriggers than it does to drop the tower. They need to know the total weight of tower, including cables and antennas, etc. They need to know the headache ball only needs to be about 2/3rds up the tower. Ask them to set up close and extend the boom. Climb up and use one of their straps to tie through two of the legs. Make a wrap around the legs, so the legs take the weight, not the diagonal rods. Have them cable up just enough to take up the slack.

Then climb down and loosen the guys.  Cut the guys, the rod going into the ground, not the cable! You could undo all the cable clamps, but the anchor points need to be cut at some point - do it now and fiddle with the clamps at home. Bring all the cables in and zip tie to the tower base.  Cut the base flush with the concrete and the tower will start to tilt. (Unless they tension - be ready!)

Have the operator cable down while you walk the base of the tower out. Don't pull or push, keep the crane's cable vertical. One hand job. At this point it never fails - an inexperienced operator all of a sudden realizes this is a piece of cake. Towers are so light they can barely tell its there. They will move it where ever you want to disassemble.

Sometimes you're lucky and the sections come apart with a little back and forth action - but this is rare. Use a couple short 2x4's and a small hydraulic jack, while tapping with a hammer. Scissor jack will work. You can inspect the inside of the tubes. Not much to see usually, they shouldn't be full of rust. You'll usually see some surface rust on the outside of an old tower, and usually on one side more than another. This is caused by dust "sandblasting" the tower over the years. A little cold galv will fix it up. Unistrut comes with about 1.5 mils of coating; not much. It'll rust pretty quickly. Most hot dipped towers will have between 4 and 7 mils of coating. I've measured over 12 on some freestanding tower legs where the galvanizing has run during the dip process. The galvanizing is a sacrificial coating and the surface rust means it needs to be touched up with cold galve. When you start seeing the rust delaminate the steel, major pitting, holes or blisters - time to worry. When you separate the sections, stand a section up and bang it down on something hard - a pile of rust should not come out.

A good rule of thumb is a free tower can cost more than new - you pay for the engineering stamp.  If you don't have to worry about that a used tower, well, can be a lot of work.



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K5RT
Member

Posts: 144




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« Reply #21 on: May 22, 2013, 04:29:05 PM »

The real risk you face is Rohn 25 rusts on the inside. Especially when the base is not properly installed, leaving no way for moisture to exit. If you don't know the age of the tower, and want to make sure it's safe to climb, even before inspecting guys etc, take a ball peen hammer and tap all around each leg, going from the ground level up about six feet. If the leg is rusted, you'll know it real fast.
If the tower base is in dirt, scrape the dirt away. Likely the tower will be rusted, and you don't want to climb it.

Don't take chances with used tower. Check it carefully.

Vy 73
Paul
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