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Author Topic: Yaesu 817nd Solar charger  (Read 2724 times)
KC2UVX
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Posts: 26




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« on: August 10, 2012, 03:37:03 PM »

What solar charger can be used for a Yaesu 817nd. It has input DC 13.8 v. Thanks
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KQ6Q
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Posts: 971




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« Reply #1 on: August 10, 2012, 04:27:23 PM »

check the online radio shack catalog - they have several sizes of folding portable solar panels, and a nice little regulator that will work with any of them. I have the 27W size to use with my IC-703 and external 4Ah Gel cell. You could get by with less, but I wanted to be able to operate AND keep the battery charged during daylight.
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KA4POL
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Posts: 1967




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« Reply #2 on: August 10, 2012, 10:12:05 PM »

As you are asking for a solar charger, I hope you don't mean without a battery.
At 2 A on transmit you do not need a big battery. It is more important to have one with a low internal resistance so you don't lose to much voltage. I'd calculate for worst case conditions, i.e. FM transmission. If you are not planning on FM this would allow a smaller battery. Like it has been said, a 4 Ah battery should be sufficient.
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KC2UVX
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Posts: 26




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« Reply #3 on: August 29, 2012, 05:21:48 PM »

Thanks for replies. I will check out radio shack. The 817 can be operated with the gel cells in the radio and plugged into a wall outlet. I was looking to have a solar panel that can keep a trickle charge on the battery while I am operating outside. Essentially recharge the batteries. Do I have to worry about overloading and damaging the radio with too powerful a solar charger? What size should suffice? I have found solar shargers but they do not come with the size plug I need to fit into the radio. Guess I could find the size I need at Radio Shack and splice it into the charger wiring. Does that sound feasible?
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K2CMH
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Posts: 275




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« Reply #4 on: August 30, 2012, 12:13:15 PM »

You do not want to connect the output of a charge controller directly to the radio as the charge controller is designed for and expecting to be connected to an actual battery.  What you should do is connect the charge controller to the battery and then go from the battery to the radio.  Some charge controllers also have a separate set of output terminals to hook up devices such as radios to them.  If yours has those outputs, connect those to the radio.  However, remember, even the charge controllers that have separate outputs still require you to connect a battery to the controller.  You never want to use the direct output of the solar panel, never.
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KC2UVX
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Posts: 26




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« Reply #5 on: August 31, 2012, 06:16:15 AM »

Thank you for the valuable insight. I think I will stick to just using a solar charger on the gel cells outside of the radio. Don't want to jeopardize the radio itself. Thanks again, Joe KC2UVX
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W6EM
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Posts: 787




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« Reply #6 on: September 01, 2012, 09:11:12 PM »

The panel you will need to supply a charge controller should have 18-19V out so that the drop through the charger will allow it to charge the battery.

But, there is another concern.  Lead acid chargers usually have what is called an equalizing charge state and a finished or floating state.  During the equalizing charge, charger output may be almost 15V!!  Not good for your radio.  When fully charged, the charger output usually drops to about 13.5V for floating purposes.

Lee
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N3YZ
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Posts: 49


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« Reply #7 on: September 02, 2012, 06:11:53 AM »

Check out http://www.ctsolar.com/solarpowerforamateurradiofaq.aspx

I have their 32watt folding panel, into the Sunguard4 controller, into a 7 amp gel cell.

Really works great.

Connect the hardware with Anderson powerpoles.

Get two batteries, one to charge while you have the other connected to the FT-817.

Have fun es 73!

John N3YZ
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W6EM
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Posts: 787




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« Reply #8 on: September 03, 2012, 03:47:49 PM »

Good advice, however, not an inexpensive solution.  Of course, even at a few dollars per watt, it's not cheap.

Best always to charge one and operate with a second.

Especially if the charger/controller can produce more than 14.5v before the battery is fully charged.
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KC2UVX
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Posts: 26




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« Reply #9 on: September 17, 2012, 03:46:04 PM »

Am checking out the different options at the ctsolar website. Thank you for the reference. I ordered and extra battery pack and am using that option at the present time. Thanks to all for their input and patience and genuine concern.
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KI4ENS
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Posts: 79




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« Reply #10 on: September 21, 2012, 02:10:59 PM »

KC2UVX,

There are cheaper solar solutions.  Harbor Freight is one. Alot of people use their 45 watt kit. I went Amazon instead.  Bought two 5 watt mono-crystalline  panels for a starter and a charge controller.  I had a 9 AH battery already.  Mounted the charge controller, battery and a fuse panel in a toolbox.

Charge Controller    $40
Panels ($23 each)   $46
Battery (free)            0
Toolbox                 $ 8
Fuse block (free)       0 
Misc. Wiring           $10
Total                   $104.

It would be closer to $150 if I bought the battery and fuse new.  My charge controller is rated to 150w and has a low voltage disconnect,  so it is expandable and protects my battery.  I probably will add another two 5 watt panels.


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VE4TTH
Member

Posts: 12




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« Reply #11 on: September 23, 2012, 06:44:32 PM »

A small DC to DC voltage regulator between the radio and the battery will ensure you only see 13.5Vdc at the radio. That way you can charge and operate on the same battery.

Its simple to build with less than $15.00 in parts. It works great for me on field days, and make the operating worry free.

73
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