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Author Topic: Best cleaning method to use on dirty rig  (Read 3227 times)
KD8HMB
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Posts: 138




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« on: October 07, 2012, 03:49:16 PM »

I just picked up a Yaesu FT 990 that is in good mechanical shape, but is really dirty outside and can use a good cleaning. I don't know if this rig qualifies as a "boat anchor, but I figured you guys that restore older radios have found the best methods to remove accumulated dirt and grunge without harming the finish.
So far I have only used a window cleaner. It has removed some of the dirty buildup, but it seems that I get more dirt onto the cloth on each pass.
What would you recommend?

Thanks
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N4NYY
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Posts: 4778




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« Reply #1 on: October 07, 2012, 05:09:13 PM »

Krud Kutter. Removed panels, knobs, etc. Place on towel. Spray on until dripping. Let sit for 1 minute. Rinse with water.
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KB4QAA
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« Reply #2 on: October 08, 2012, 02:57:06 PM »

Krud Kutter.  I dilute it quite a bit, and only use stronger when needed.  Then rinse with copious amounts of water.   

I remove any meters, or vulnerable things, use masking tape or Al. foil on what can't be removed.   A soft chip brush is my main tool, with a sponge, nail brush, and only occasionally a soft scotchbright pad.   I work at the sink, and use a small bowl to hold my diluted solution, and a cup for rinsing.   

If possible I dry the radios in the oven preheated to 120-130F  max.  Ususally takes less than an hour for all to be warm and dry.
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N4NYY
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« Reply #3 on: October 08, 2012, 03:46:12 PM »

Krud Kutter.  I dilute it quite a bit, and only use stronger when needed.  Then rinse with copious amounts of water.   

I remove any meters, or vulnerable things, use masking tape or Al. foil on what can't be removed.   A soft chip brush is my main tool, with a sponge, nail brush, and only occasionally a soft scotchbright pad.   I work at the sink, and use a small bowl to hold my diluted solution, and a cup for rinsing.   

If possible I dry the radios in the oven preheated to 120-130F  max.  Ususally takes less than an hour for all to be warm and dry.

I was actually talking about panels and knobs only. If you are doing the chassis, then this is the best way to go.
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K1CJS
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« Reply #4 on: October 11, 2012, 04:15:59 AM »

Oils from fingers and hands that combine with dirt and dust can be very hard to get off.  I use rubbing alcohol--90 percent strong--on a soft paper towel and gently wipe the areas I need to until I get them clean.  Sometimes it takes a while, but you've got to remember that it took a while for the grime to accumulate too.  Just check it on an area that is hidden so that if the alcohol starts to remove finish you aren't letting yourself in for a time consuming refinish job.  Good luck!
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KE0ZU
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« Reply #5 on: October 14, 2012, 05:34:44 AM »

Get yourself a bottle of Ammonia from the laundry Isle.  Use it right out of the bottle on paper towels or with an acid brush.   Definitely NOT what I'd call a pleasing aroma but it sure works well.  I also have a 990 and love it.  Very nicely made. 
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N4NYY
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« Reply #6 on: October 14, 2012, 08:15:58 PM »

Get yourself a bottle of Ammonia from the laundry Isle.  Use it right out of the bottle on paper towels or with an acid brush.   Definitely NOT what I'd call a pleasing aroma but it sure works well.  I also have a 990 and love it.  Very nicely made. 


Krud Kutter works better than ammonia, is biodegradable, and no nasty fumes.
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WB6DGN
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Posts: 619




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« Reply #7 on: October 29, 2012, 10:31:01 PM »

Something to check before you get started.  I had a 990 as well and when I was comparing it to the 1000 I considered, one difference I seem to recall is that the FT990 front panel is plastic but the FT1000 is aluminum.  You might want to confirm my recollection as this will determine what you use to clean the panel.  Trying to remember where I read that but, so far, no success.  Just a heads-up.
Tom
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