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Author Topic: Sealing PL259/SO239  (Read 7103 times)
WB2WIK
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Posts: 20545




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« Reply #15 on: March 13, 2013, 10:28:48 AM »


Quote
Could you expand on this a bit...  I will be putting up a tower later this year, and am wondering how best to keep water out of the coax...  I worry because no matter how you seal things, using tapes, one end is still open to the air...  The end screwed into your antenna...  Any suggestions?

Make a 360 degree loop out of the coax where it attaches to the antenna, run the coax "uphill" from the feedpoint to that loop directly above the feedpoint, and let the free end of the loop run back down to wherever it has to go.

I've never seen water run uphill without something pumping or siphoning it, and I've never seen coax "wick" water uphill either.
Thank you!  That answered my question!  I assume go through the normal waterproofing with rescue tape etc...

Frankly, I don't use any  of that.  I've never had connectors "leak" to cause any issues.  I usually just use a rubber O-ring inside the back end of PL-259s during the assembly process.  That gets pinched between the exterior threads of the PL-259 body and the back end of the shell when the connector screws onto its mating receptacle, and there's really no place for water to intrude.  Been doing that for decades.

I use these outdoors for years and years and when "opened up" for inspection, they're clean and dry inside.

I haven't used tape, Coax Seal or really anything in a very long time.
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NK7Z
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« Reply #16 on: March 13, 2013, 10:51:49 AM »


Quote
Could you expand on this a bit...  I will be putting up a tower later this year, and am wondering how best to keep water out of the coax...  I worry because no matter how you seal things, using tapes, one end is still open to the air...  The end screwed into your antenna...  Any suggestions?

Make a 360 degree loop out of the coax where it attaches to the antenna, run the coax "uphill" from the feedpoint to that loop directly above the feedpoint, and let the free end of the loop run back down to wherever it has to go.

I've never seen water run uphill without something pumping or siphoning it, and I've never seen coax "wick" water uphill either.
Thank you!  That answered my question!  I assume go through the normal waterproofing with rescue tape etc...

Frankly, I don't use any  of that.  I've never had connectors "leak" to cause any issues.  I usually just use a rubber O-ring inside the back end of PL-259s during the assembly process.  That gets pinched between the exterior threads of the PL-259 body and the back end of the shell when the connector screws onto its mating receptacle, and there's really no place for water to intrude.  Been doing that for decades.

I use these outdoors for years and years and when "opened up" for inspection, they're clean and dry inside.

I haven't used tape, Coax Seal or really anything in a very long time.

Could you expand on that please?  Perhaps a link to the o-rings?
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Thanks,
Dave
For reviews and setups see: http://www.nk7z.net
WB2WIK
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Posts: 20545




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« Reply #17 on: March 13, 2013, 02:28:09 PM »



Quote
Could you expand on that please?  Perhaps a link to the o-rings?

I use industry standard O-rings, type AS568-014.

Those are .490" ID and .625" OD and fit perfectly for this job.
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KB4QAA
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« Reply #18 on: March 13, 2013, 05:46:41 PM »

Keep in mind that Steve lives in what most other hams in the US would consider a desert.   Wink
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NK7Z
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« Reply #19 on: March 13, 2013, 11:51:19 PM »

Keep in mind that Steve lives in what most other hams in the US would consider a desert.   Wink
Thank you...  I live in Oregon, where the Sun almost never shows itself...
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Thanks,
Dave
For reviews and setups see: http://www.nk7z.net
K6ELQ
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Posts: 24




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« Reply #20 on: March 14, 2013, 10:39:02 AM »

I've used shrink tubing for years and when sliced off the connector has always been pristine. I live within two miles of the coast. You can use a shrink tubing that has a meltable inner coating but I found those to be a pain to remove - I may try that silicone tape idea with this type of tubing. I use a heat gun with a accessory tip that concentrates the heat to a small area to avoid melting what I don't want melted, like a plastic balun box (don't ask how I know Embarrassed).

73 de K6ELQ Tony
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W6UV
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Posts: 536




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« Reply #21 on: March 14, 2013, 04:24:42 PM »

I use Scotch Temflex 2155. Home Depot sells this for around $2.98 for a 22' roll. This is almost half the cost of a 10' roll of CoaxWrap from a ham store.

I put on a layer of Temflex, and then a layer of Scotch 33+ over that for UV proofing.
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WA8UEG
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Posts: 339




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« Reply #22 on: March 15, 2013, 07:21:33 AM »

Keep in mind that Steve lives in what most other hams in the US would consider a desert.   Wink

I do the exact same thing and have for decades with no problems. I don't use the O ring which is a nifty idea. I have never taped or sealed a PL259 and have never had a problem, I do use RG213 or LMR400. QTH's include Indiana, Ohio, Texas, Illinois, and the Pocono mountains in PA for the past 10 years. Having said that it can't hurt if it makes you feel better.
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K7RNO
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Posts: 279




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« Reply #23 on: March 15, 2013, 11:22:57 AM »

Very interesting thread, but do I need to worry about anything of it for this situation:

Location is dry Utah. Roof-mounted Diamond X-50NA, which has the connector protected inside the bottom mounting pipe.

?
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73,
aRNO
NAQCC #6870, SKCC #11131
WB2WIK
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Posts: 20545




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« Reply #24 on: March 15, 2013, 02:37:52 PM »

Very interesting thread, but do I need to worry about anything of it for this situation:

Location is dry Utah. Roof-mounted Diamond X-50NA, which has the connector protected inside the bottom mounting pipe.

?

Where the coax exits the mounting tube which is part of the antenna, make a 360 degree loop several inches in diameter right at that point and tape it to the supporting mast.  The "free end" of that loop should run downwards, down the mast and into the station.

I wouldn't do anything else, other than that.
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WB2WIK
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Posts: 20545




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« Reply #25 on: March 15, 2013, 02:40:19 PM »

Keep in mind that Steve lives in what most other hams in the US would consider a desert.   Wink

I do the exact same thing and have for decades with no problems. I don't use the O ring which is a nifty idea. I have never taped or sealed a PL259 and have never had a problem, I do use RG213 or LMR400. QTH's include Indiana, Ohio, Texas, Illinois, and the Pocono mountains in PA for the past 10 years. Having said that it can't hurt if it makes you feel better.

I've read hundreds of times about those who use all sorts of protective coatings, tapes, etc. on their outdoor connectors being very happy when they unwrap all that to find shiny, dry, new-looking connectors.

I get the same results without doing anything. Wink  But I do always use a drip loop at each outdoor installation.

A lot of coax connectors aren't installed properly.  I've actually had old-timers who've installed PL-259s all their lives show their astonishment when I show them how to properly screw the connector onto the cable jacket.  Half of them didn't even know that was a vital part of the design.  It's amazing.
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K4RVN
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Posts: 758




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« Reply #26 on: March 15, 2013, 10:10:41 PM »

I have been using liquid electrical tape for a year or more. It brushes on. This was suggested by a friend of mine who is a ham and it appears to work fine to seal and is easy to work with when disconnecting.
Ace, home depot, Lowes.
« Last Edit: March 15, 2013, 10:14:21 PM by K4RVN » Logged
NK7Z
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Posts: 737


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« Reply #27 on: March 16, 2013, 07:08:20 AM »



Quote
Could you expand on that please?  Perhaps a link to the o-rings?

I use industry standard O-rings, type AS568-014.

Those are .490" ID and .625" OD and fit perfectly for this job.
Thank you...  I picked up some of the Permatex 22058 "Dielectric Tune-Up Grease".  So I do the following:

1.  Solder connector
2.  Squirt this stuff into the just soldered connector, in the areas around the shield, and center connector
3.  Connect the connector
4.  Rescue tape
5.  3 M tape

I am done

I assume this "Grease" is non conductive...  Right?
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Thanks,
Dave
For reviews and setups see: http://www.nk7z.net
KH6DC
Member

Posts: 634




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« Reply #28 on: March 22, 2013, 12:22:43 PM »

I used to use Coax Seal but if and when you need to remove it, it's super messy.  For the last 3 years I've been using Silicone Tape (Rescue Tape or High Sierra's Raincoat tape) with success.  So far so good and I've found no water intrusion.  High Sierra's Raincoat tape is a bit thinner than Rescue Tape but it works well.  Silicone tape doesn't stick to anything except itself.
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73 and Aloha,
de Delwyn, KH6DC
G7DMQ
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Posts: 40




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« Reply #29 on: March 25, 2013, 08:44:28 AM »

I just fill the connector & threads with general purpose grease!  It's a bit messy - but seems to do the trick, and they're easy to unscrew when you need to!

In the UK, it does nothing but rain!  No amount of wrapping seems to keep it out long term - but grease seems to work OK.

Si
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