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Author Topic: Standard C528A Recap  (Read 2554 times)

Posts: 225

« on: March 07, 2013, 05:33:00 AM »

I know the Standard C528A is an old radio and may no longer be in use by people, but after picking up a so called "dead" radio at a hamfest last month on the hunch that the internal battery and caps maybe the issue, I acquired it (like a cat it followed me home).  After reviewing several on-line sites where the issue of a dead C528A radios where discussed, I open the radio up and replace the internal battery with a 2032 cell, after which I found the radio did power up a few times but was stuck in tx mode.  Using the schematic and on-line resources (of which non gave part numbers on component values, which is fine), I ordered up the following capacitors from Mouser and would like to share the information with everyone:

33uf, 6.3V, Nichicon P/N: F970J336KAA, Mouser P/N: 647-F970J336KAA
2.2uf, 25V, Nichicon P/N: F951E225MRAAQ2, Mouser P/N: 647-F951E225MRAAQ2
4.7uf, 25V, Nichicon P/N: F951E475MRAAQ2, Mouser P/N: 647-F951E475MRAAQ2
220uf, 6.3V, Panasonic P/N: ECE-AOJKAQ221, Mouser P/N: 667-ECE-AOJKAQ221

The first three from Nichicon are SMT, whereas the Panasonic is a thru-hold part.  When you open up the radio you will find that the 33uf, 2.2uf and 4.7 uf are all SMT devices and can be a problem desoldering form the board.  I ended up cutting the top of the Alum can off so that the capacitor leads where left on the solder pads, which were then quickly removed.  Before installing the new capacitors, the board was clean/washed down with flux remover and alcohol.

This radio is now becoming my main HT because of it dual receive and cross-band capabilities.

Posts: 5688

« Reply #1 on: March 07, 2013, 06:22:03 AM »

Investigate a product called, "ChipQuik" and pick up a kit before the next time you need to remove SMT devices. 

Good stuff if the directions are followed. 

For the SMT electrolytics, I find that ADDING fresh solder to the joint can hold enough heat to allow for the lifting of one side clear of the pad.  Repeat for the other side. 

There is typically a dot of adhesive underneath the device which was used in automated assembly, I have found that this is nonproblematic, after adding the bit of fresh solder to one lug, grasp the electrolytic with needlenose pliers and rock it in the direction away from the pad slightly to break the old adhesive dot, then heat and desolder the other lug. 

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