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Author Topic: Looking for photo of Alinco DR-110T yellow wire mod  (Read 2505 times)
K7NHB
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Posts: 226




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« on: May 31, 2013, 10:12:48 AM »

I have an Alinco  DR-110T I was going to put in a lady ham's car. At this point she is more interested in the NOAA weather broadcasts (though her ears did perk up when she heard on easily the YL broke into a DX pile-up last night). I kept reading about the Yellow Wire Mod - take off the top, cut the wire loop behind the tuning  knob. I have the top off but I don't see no yellow loop. Could someone email me a photo clearly showing where that wire begins and ends (k7nhb at sign quickdata dot com). I see a few yellow wires but nothing like "a loop" behind the tuning knob. My unit - bought used - has a circuit board hot glued behind and just slightly to the right of the tuning knob. It also has the coax connector as a pigtail. I only mention that, wondering there were older/new models of the DR-110T. I have a newer one put in a box somewhere and I thought the coax connector on that was right on the case. But once you get past 65, and looked at more that a few rigs in your life, .... it probably had a pigtail too.

Anyway - where is this magic yellow wire supposed to be?  Also, they take about reseting by holding down the F and VFO/M keys on shut down and start up. But then they talk about band switching by pressing both the F and VFO button when the unit is on. But you can't push them both exactly at the same time so is it Hold the F and push the VFO/M or hold the VFO/M and push the F to switch to the other two frequency ranges?

Finally, can you see any problem if, instead of just cutting the wire I put a small on/off slide switch in the line (insulating to contact well)? That way I could easily put it back to 2M reception only.

Thank you and 73,

Paul
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K1CJS
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Posts: 6055




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« Reply #1 on: June 01, 2013, 07:28:58 AM »

Check with this site:   www.mods.dk

They have many, many pictures and modification instructions and should have the one you need.  You do have to sign up for an account, but it doesn't cost anything--unless you want to access more than one model mod per day.

Good luck and 73!
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K7NHB
Member

Posts: 226




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« Reply #2 on: June 01, 2013, 08:05:03 AM »

Thanks for the tip but I've been there. Unless I missed it, they only had a mod for using the 110 in digital mode.  There are lots of "cut the yellow wire" articles on the web. The reason I'm looking for a photo is I opened the case and didn't see a yellow wire "loop" just behind the tuning knob. There are several yellow wires in there; most part of a multi-wire cable going to a plastic plug. So I need a visual on this "Just behind the tuning knob" location.

Thank you and 73,
Paul
K7NHB
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KF5JOT
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Posts: 25




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« Reply #3 on: June 01, 2013, 12:52:25 PM »

Paul: the description on this one might help: http://www.kwnet.net/n7qqu~/mods-alinco.html
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K7NHB
Member

Posts: 226




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« Reply #4 on: June 01, 2013, 03:48:59 PM »

Thank you. I've read that.

The problem is here: "... you will see a little yellow jumper coming from behind the front panel, looping around and returning to the front panel. ...' I DON'T see a little yellow jumper coming from behind the front panel, looping around (what?) and returning ....

KB5WBH sent me some photos (Thank you) and indicated this jumper is not in the main chassis body but on the display circuit board in front of the main chassis. So it looks like I might have to pull off that "display head" to get to this magic wire.

In my world nothing is every as easy as the description says.  Just yesterday I wanted to charge the battery in my K2. The K2's been wired so I have a direct connection to the battery, eliminating the need for a 14+V supply coming in the normal route (no voltage drop). The pin on that alternate input is 2.5mm instead of 2.1 so a regular supply doesn't get plugged in there by mistake. But for the life of me, I couldn't find the 2.5 coaxial-to-power pole connector I had made up. I'm thinking that it might have been included with the KX1 when I sold it.  So I went to R.S. for a 2.5 mm connector when I got home and tried to wire it up, the wire gauge I was using was too big for the plug shield orifice. So I took the shield to the garage to drill it out a little. But the main battery on the power drill was out. So I put that in a charger and used the spare. After reaming the back of the coaxial shield so the two wires would fit , I soldered it up, tested it for shorts, and plugged it in. After an hour or so I checked the battery and it didn't seem like it was changing. There was a 1 Amp fuse in line with that direct connection and I checked that and the fuse was blown.  So this morning I bicycled down to Ace Hardware and got some new fuses. Now it is charging fine.  My life is like that.

So when I read, "Just take off the top and you'll see the obvious yellow wire to cut..." I was prepared that it might not be so direct.  Anything that says, "Cut the yellow wire behind the tuning knob." doesn't help in my case because though there are many yellow wires, there is no obvious yellow "loop" that I can access just by removing the top. For example, Mike's photos show where the wire is soldered to the circuit board, but that board is not visible to me just by lifting the top off the 110 - unless I am completely missing it.

73,
Paul
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K7NHB
Member

Posts: 226




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« Reply #5 on: June 01, 2013, 08:31:31 PM »

I was just sent a photo of a DR-110T and mine doesn't look anything like it in that upper corner near the tuning knob. I have a vertical circuit board hot glued to the chassis above the four solder pads (surrounded by a white rectangle) on the lower circuit board and I apparently have an extra circuit board above and  overlapping the silver shielded box behind the tuning knob.

Looks like I'll have to remove the front display to get to my yellow wire so I'll start reading post about replacing the display lamps. Hopefully they will get me there.

73,
Paul
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K1CJS
Member

Posts: 6055




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« Reply #6 on: June 02, 2013, 08:33:24 AM »

Paul, it could be that the jumper was replaced by another owner. (maybe he just pulled out one half and used the other half to re-jump the connection)  Some hams simply want no part of any rig that has been modified and will restore any modifications done.  Or maybe the panel lights blew out and had to be replaced, and the jumper wasn't repositioned where it was by whoever replaced them.

Your only recourse now is to disassemble the rig (as you said) and see.  If you cannot find the yellow jumper at all, you may have to refer to a service manual or schematic to find where it should have been and cut the connection again.  Sometimes a simple favor turns out not to be as simple as we figured it would, doesn't it?   Grin    Roll Eyes  Good luck and 73!
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K7NHB
Member

Posts: 226




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« Reply #7 on: June 03, 2013, 07:38:06 PM »

Yes, I am ready to take off the front panel as if I were replacing the display lamps. But the instructions for that get to the point of "Remove the nut on the tuning knob shaft and the nut on the mic connector. It's the "nut" on the mic connector that other so glibly say, "just remove" There's a very narrow gap between the plastic case and the connector itself - too narrow for my tiniest needle nose pliers. And it appears to be a special nut - not just a hex nut. It has four indents (top/bottom/left/right) around the connector so some tool slides between the plastic case and the connector and engages those four indents to rotate the nut - at least thats how it looks.  I'm guessing the people who work on these are paid by the hour Smiley

So before I can get the panel off to check the wire it looks like I need to remove the nut on the mic connector - at least that's were it appears to be hanging up now.

73,
Paul
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K1CJS
Member

Posts: 6055




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« Reply #8 on: June 04, 2013, 05:36:37 AM »

If you can get some heavy, stiff wire, you can make a wrench to remove that nut.  (Yes, I do know the one you mean.)  Cut a six inch piece of wire, bend it in half and then bend the ends down 90 degrees so they can fit in the slots.  One other approach is to use the tightening tool for some of the NMO antenna mounts, although you may have to file/grind them down to fit.

Another useful tool is a set of split ring pliers, the better ones with different replaceable ends.  There is usually a set of ends that are bent at 90 degrees included with them.  They may serve quite well to get that nut out.  Good luck and 73!

Added--You can usually find those split ring pliers at auto parts stores.  73!
« Last Edit: June 04, 2013, 06:04:50 AM by K1CJS » Logged
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