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Author Topic: 6 conductor standard Molex connector in the back  (Read 3478 times)
W7EJT
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Posts: 140




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« on: May 01, 2013, 12:22:20 PM »

OK, Just bought on old ICOM IC-735. It didn't come with a 13.6v power cable. No problem, I have a couple of extras. I'm pretty they are all standard; Yaesu, Icom, and Kenwood

When I plugged it into the transceiver - I noticed it was "loose fitting". Nothing, when turned on. I jiggled the connector (and held it in place) - bingo, everything came to life.

I fiddled with the male molex connector (at the transceiver) using an Exacto knife - to open up the pins somewhat. They did open some. Still the connection is very loose fitting, though. I have to hold the connector in position for operation.

1) Did Icom use special 6 pin molex connectors?  Shocked
2) The cable I'm using works fine (firm) on my Yeasu FT-890

Any suggestions?

thx and 73

Alan, W7EJT
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W7EJT
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« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2013, 01:49:49 PM »

I communicate with Ray Tackett (makes the reproduction power cables). He said Icom is the same as everyone else. No special connector on the Icoms.

So how does one improve upon the connection, then?

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KE3WD
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Posts: 5689




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« Reply #2 on: May 01, 2013, 03:54:13 PM »

Sometimes it is necessary to remove the Female side of the connectors one at a time, and tighten them up with maybe the needlenose pliers. 

73
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W7EJT
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Posts: 140




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« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2013, 04:34:12 PM »

Good suggestion! I have gone about as far as I can with the "male" end... Thanks
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K8AXW
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« Reply #4 on: May 02, 2013, 08:17:04 AM »

Alan:  A Molex pin extraction tool is available.  It looks like a stainless steel syringe and is inserted in the Molex connector hole(s) and the plunger is pushed to extract the pins.  Saves a great deal of grief and doesn't damage the pin(s).

However, before reinsertion, it will be necessary to use a knife blade to lift the 2 locking tabs back out.
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W7EJT
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« Reply #5 on: May 02, 2013, 08:40:09 AM »

Thanks!!! I was wondering how to get those female connectors out of there!

Thanks, again!

Alan, W7EJT
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K5LXP
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« Reply #6 on: May 02, 2013, 08:50:10 AM »

A finishing nail and a tap with a hammer has those pins out in a jiffy.

Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM
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W6EM
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Posts: 882




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« Reply #7 on: May 02, 2013, 04:45:33 PM »

A finishing nail and a tap with a hammer has those pins out in a jiffy.

Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM

Yes, and very likely has popped off the retention wings on the barrel of the socket.  Without those wings, the pin won't stay in the shell.

I've used a plastic extractor that isn't really easy to use, but is kind to the pin shells.
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K5LXP
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« Reply #8 on: May 02, 2013, 08:04:13 PM »

very likely has popped off the retention wings on the barrel of the socket.  Without those wings, the pin won't stay in the shell.

Correct.  If I were to bother to remove them, they'd be replaced.

The pins in these Molex/Molex-style connectors are spec'd at a dozen or two mating cycles and barely more than half the current load of the radio (hence 2 pins for + and -).  If someone is going to bother to surgically remove, attempt to re-form then replace the pins, why not just replace the pins.  They're 12 cents apiece.


Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM
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W7EJT
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« Reply #9 on: May 03, 2013, 07:37:40 AM »

Mark - where do you get these"pins"? Can't find them on eBay (gee, I thought they had everything!)
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N3QE
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« Reply #10 on: May 03, 2013, 08:07:26 AM »

Mark - where do you get these"pins"? Can't find them on eBay (gee, I thought they had everything!)

You want to go to a full-line Molex distributor. e.g. 11-03-0002 and 11-03-0006 removal tools will handle most Molex connectors you are likely to see.

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/645/usd/2275.pdf

Even better... next time get a radio with Anderson Powerpole connectors in the back. This is the way the new Elecraft and Ten-Tec radios come. Some folks add them to older radios.
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W9GB
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Posts: 2656




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« Reply #11 on: May 03, 2013, 08:18:39 AM »

PowerWerx has these and every other amateur radio
DC power connector (nylon shell, pins) IN STOCK.
http://www.powerwerx.com/oem-connectors/
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K8AXW
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Posts: 3962




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« Reply #12 on: May 03, 2013, 09:24:22 AM »

The Molex extraction tool is hollow and fits down over the pin (either gender) and as it slides down the pin it pushes the two locking tabs back into their recesses.  The plunger pushes the pin out of the housing.

To reuse the pins, a knife blade is used to pry out the locking tabs slightly so that when the pins are reinserted into the housing the will lock in place.

Driving them out with a nail or something else damages the pins and they will need to be replaced.  This means cutting and stripping the wires again as well as reattaching new pins.

Many times when populating a 6 or 9 pin housing, two wires will get reversed.   If the pins are destroyed on removal then all of the pins will have to be removed or you'll wind up with two short wires.

It's also very easy to simply reverse all of the conductors because you forget (mind fart) which end of the housing your are numbering. 

If Molex connectors are being used, an extraction tool is good to have on hand.
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K1CJS
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Posts: 6055




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« Reply #13 on: May 03, 2013, 09:50:44 AM »

If you're careful, have the patience (and the eyesight or a magnifying glass) it's possible to use a flat blade jewelers screwdriver to push those locking tabs on the pins in.  Yes, it takes longer, but if you're in a hurry and don't have the extraction tool, it will work.
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W6EM
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Posts: 882




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« Reply #14 on: May 03, 2013, 06:06:45 PM »

If I were to bother to remove them, they'd be replaced.

The pins in these Molex/Molex-style connectors are spec'd at a dozen or two mating cycles and barely more than half the current load of the radio (hence 2 pins for + and -).  If someone is going to bother to surgically remove, attempt to re-form then replace the pins, why not just replace the pins.  They're 12 cents apiece.


Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM

Mark:

OK, but not everyone has a Crimpmaster tool with the dies to properly crimp them onto the wires.  If you don't get a good crimp, and try to solder them instead, the solder glob mess and the likely offset of the wire will make insertion really tough.  Been there, done that.....

73,
Lee
W6EM
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