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Author Topic: Opinion on Solder-less Crimp on PL259  (Read 29035 times)
WS4E
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Posts: 223




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« Reply #15 on: September 13, 2013, 10:58:17 AM »

>But I wonder if anyone knows if or where just crimp rings are sold?

Maybe some 5/16" tubing?

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N6AJR
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Posts: 9908




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« Reply #16 on: September 14, 2013, 12:39:36 PM »

I used to solder everything but now I crimp everything.  I got the ratcheting crimper set from Hi Sierra (http://www.hamcq.com/) and have bought a bunch of connectors from them too. I get the connectors where ever I find a good deal on them.  I have rg 58, rg 59, rg8x, rg 6, lmr 400 and some other stuff , most in  1000 foot spools or larger. I will probably never have to buy coax connectors again. ( for instance I got 120 N connector crimp on connectors for lmr 400 for 150 bucks delivered, from a guy in Italy. so that is a little over a buck a connector delivered,  and I will probably never have to buy them again, and I even hand out coax and connectors to friends on occasion.  I like the crimped stuff now.
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N4KD
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Posts: 134




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« Reply #17 on: September 17, 2013, 06:58:31 AM »

>But I wonder if anyone knows if or where just crimp rings are sold?

Maybe some 5/16" tubing?

Good idea! Thanks.
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W9GB
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Posts: 2623




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« Reply #18 on: September 17, 2013, 07:13:40 AM »

K&S Metal Retail Displays, across USA, carry variety of metal tubes in small diameters.
http://www.ksmetals.com/RetailLocations.html
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K6AER
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Posts: 3515




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« Reply #19 on: September 17, 2013, 08:21:33 PM »

I did an article on crimp on PL-259's many years ago. Crimp on connectors is the best way to go. My SteppIR beam has them and it has been up for over ten years here in Colorado.

http://www.eham.net/articles/27017
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WH7DX
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Posts: 1029




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« Reply #20 on: September 17, 2013, 09:48:09 PM »

Im going to be doing some cabling work and was wondering what you guys think of Solderless Crimp ons?  The type where not only is the braid crimped but so is the center pin.  One of the guys I work with (also an Ham) worked as an electronics engineer in the Air Force on bombers and told me that they NEVER soldering ANYTHING.  Everything was crimp thus I would change to crimp if I have the opportunity.  Since I am lazy like the next guy and have the crimp tools I figured - Sounds good to me!  But I would like to get another opinion.

PS - I use Amphenol connectors if that is a factor.

Thanks
Mike
KD2CJJ

I prefer solder over crimp because it covers more contact area and protest more area from the elements (being near salt).

I think they use crimps because of vibration.   Solder can come loose.

$.02
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K3GM
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Posts: 1799




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« Reply #21 on: September 18, 2013, 04:46:38 AM »

I employ both solder and crimp.  It's largely dependent on where it's being used.  If it's located far out on the boom of a yagi, I use a connection that for me is tried and true, and that's solder.  If it's somewhere where I can get to it if it needs replacing, or if it's being used in the shack as part of a jumper, then I definitely use crimp-on connectors.  My tool and connectors are from Quicksliver.
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N4RSS
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Posts: 258




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« Reply #22 on: September 18, 2013, 06:21:07 AM »

I bought an expensive crimp tool set and couldn't get an unshorted connection to save my life.  I'd pay someone a hundred bucks to personally tutor me
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KQ6EA
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Posts: 609


WWW

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« Reply #23 on: September 18, 2013, 09:32:51 AM »

Too bad you don't live out here, Roger.

I could teach you how to do it in about 30 minutes.

Jim
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WB6DGN
Member

Posts: 617




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« Reply #24 on: September 20, 2013, 08:07:38 PM »

Quote
I think they use crimps because of vibration.

WH7DX, you're on the right track.
No matter how carefully you solder a connection, a stranded wire will wick some of that solder down its length, making that length of wire "solidified", and therefore vulnerable to "work fatigue" and subject to breakage.  That is why the FAA does not generally allow soldered connections in avionics wiring.  On the other hand, a PROPERLY crimped connection can actually put so much force on the wire that it liquifies and causes a "pressure weld" to the connector.  So says the avionics industry, at least!  The point being, however that no "solidification" of the wire occurs and, therefore it doesn't act like a solid wire and break under vibration or flexing.
Many of the same conditions that exist in aircraft also occur on a tall mast or tower and the result is the same.  So, while I wouldn't hesitate to use a soldered connection in the house (except that crimp is still easier), in an antenna system or on test equipment, EVERYTHING is crimped.
Tom
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W9GB
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Posts: 2623




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« Reply #25 on: September 21, 2013, 07:05:22 PM »

Quote from: N4RSS
I bought an expensive crimp tool set and couldn't get an unshorted connection to save my life.  I'd pay someone a hundred bucks to personally tutor me
YOU TUBE VIDEO (Australia) -- Crimp connectors starts at 4:00
Not perfect, his crimp tool not best for this usage.  Looks like it was designed for CATV 'F' connectors.
http://youtu.be/Wl-nwo_v93E

RF Connectors - Assembly Diagram for RFU-507 (PL-259 Crimp for RG-213/U or equivalent 0.405" OD coax).
http://www.rfcoaxconnectors.com/Downloads%20Technical%20Information/Cable%20Assembly%20Instructions/RFU-507.pdf

USE a Straight Edge Razor Blade.  Plastic Holders are sold for ease of holding/working.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3374991&clickid=body_rv_img

1. Prepare Coax EXACTLY as shown in Pictorial Diagrams.
http://www.rfcoaxconnectors.com/Downloads%20Technical%20Information/Cable%20Assembly%20Instructions/RFU-507.pdf
Use fingernail or Electrician scissors to trim any coax braid fine wires.

2. INSTALL Crimp Ferrule over end of coax
3. IF you are using Adhesive Heat-Shrink, cut to length and place over end of coax.
4. INSTALL Subassembly nut (in proper orientation for SO-239 threading) over end of coax.
5. NOW, Carefully place the SHELL over the cut end of coax.
6. The Outer Braid of coax should be on Outside of Ferrule Stud.
7. IF you properly cut the coax, the braid should be at end of ferrule stud, when center conductor is through center tube.  The exposed braid should not extend beyond the end of ferrule stud!
TEST with VOM / DVM --- IF you have a Short NOW, you are no following pictorials !
8. SLIDE Ferrule over braid, CRIMP
9. CRIMP Center conductor.
10.  Slide adhesive heat-shrink over ferrule -- seal end if cable.
11. Subassembly nut screws to Shell.

Run through this DRY, without crimping -- to avoid NEWBEE/Novice errors.
« Last Edit: September 21, 2013, 07:20:43 PM by W9GB » Logged
K1ZJH
Member

Posts: 984




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« Reply #26 on: September 22, 2013, 09:51:26 PM »

If weather or salt air is affecting a crimp fitting, it wasn't properly WX sealed to begin with.
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KD2CJJ
Member

Posts: 369




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« Reply #27 on: September 23, 2013, 05:04:21 AM »

So I got around to make some jumpers.  I have destroy 2 amohenol plugs.  The center pin keeps cracking.  I suspect it's the crimp die I amusing.  The jacket is fine..no issues so what size die should I be using on the center conductor??  I have tried using .128 it's too big ..  .100 too small I believe.. Any suggestions?
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73

Mike
KD2CJJ
N5INP
Member

Posts: 862




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« Reply #28 on: September 23, 2013, 05:35:08 AM »

So I got around to make some jumpers.  I have destroy 2 amohenol plugs.  The center pin keeps cracking.  I suspect it's the crimp die I amusing.  The jacket is fine..no issues so what size die should I be using on the center conductor??  I have tried using .128 it's too big ..  .100 too small I believe.. Any suggestions?

Sounds like a problem I've asked about in another thread. There isn't any crimp dimensions or die sizes listed for these crimp connectors. I remember years ago in the lab I worked in they used to have all the stripping instructions and so on printed on the connector package. That simply isn't the case now. I have yet to find a simple page showing the standard coax stripping (dimensions) instructions for most of the crimp on connectors. I have no idea why the vendors don't show these dimensions on their sites.

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KD2CJJ
Member

Posts: 369




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« Reply #29 on: September 23, 2013, 06:57:55 AM »

I did some digging and found that my crimp tool's die (I purchased from Quicksilver Radio Products) is not a fit for Amphenol plugs!   Amphenol needs .118 center pin to crimp (the Jacket is fine at .429 - this is standard on all plugs).  The Quicksilver Radio Products crimp tool has .128 or .100 both dont work!

Im waiting to hear back from them if they sell a die - if not I will need to buy another crimp tool - sucks! and probably have to redo some plugs as the tips are crushed.

So I got around to make some jumpers.  I have destroy 2 amohenol plugs.  The center pin keeps cracking.  I suspect it's the crimp die I amusing.  The jacket is fine..no issues so what size die should I be using on the center conductor??  I have tried using .128 it's too big ..  .100 too small I believe.. Any suggestions?

Sounds like a problem I've asked about in another thread. There isn't any crimp dimensions or die sizes listed for these crimp connectors. I remember years ago in the lab I worked in they used to have all the stripping instructions and so on printed on the connector package. That simply isn't the case now. I have yet to find a simple page showing the standard coax stripping (dimensions) instructions for most of the crimp on connectors. I have no idea why the vendors don't show these dimensions on their sites.


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73

Mike
KD2CJJ
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