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Author Topic: homebrew bugstick  (Read 13375 times)
KA4NMA
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« on: September 28, 2013, 06:34:48 AM »

I would like to take a 75m hamstick, strip the wire and make a homemade bug catcher antenna.  I would like for it to cover 20-10m.  40m and 6m would be a bonus.   Does anybody have a coil that I could get? I am disabled and economically challenged.  I am going on a road trip planned in a couple of weeks and would like to use my ft-817nd.  Please email directly at pastor dot spaceboy at gmail dot com

Randy ka4nma
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K5LXP
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« Reply #1 on: September 28, 2013, 03:35:05 PM »

In the April 2000 QST there's an article, "A $20 HF Mobile Antenna".

Not a bug catcher but something you can make reasonably quickly and inexpensively.  You're going to have a heck of a challenge working QRP HF mobile but on the higher bands with good conditions you might snag a few contacts.

Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM
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KA4NMA
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« Reply #2 on: September 28, 2013, 05:06:31 PM »

I already have the hamstick.  I do not have many tools, and I am disabled.  I am using Cecil w5dxp design.  http://www.w5dxp.com/bugstick.htm 

Randy ka4nma
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W5LZ
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« Reply #3 on: September 29, 2013, 12:33:00 AM »

Just how 'ugly' are you willing to go?  That deals with the mechanical aspects mainly.  Wind a coil on fairly large diameter PVC, or maybe a 2 liter pop bottle?  Thread that onto a fiberglass whip that's something like 9 - 10 long and thread wire to the coil and above it.  Ugly is a good name for that sort of thingy, but it'll work just dandy, especially at lower power levels, don't need as much coil turn spacing or as heavy a wire.  With that sort of idea, the larger the coil the lower in frequency you can go without adding to the antenna's height.  Tap that coil in the appropriate places and it should go from where ever to where ever.
Good luck.
 - Paul

(Used a bug catcher for years and still have it.  No, it isn't for sale.  You can still get them by the way.)
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K5LXP
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« Reply #4 on: September 29, 2013, 08:13:52 PM »

The coil DXP used looks like airdux or miniductor.  New they're pretty spendy which is why I passed along the link to the ARRL article where you homebrew one. 

Nothing says you can't use your own homebrew coil as part of the bugstick build.  He gives the details of the coil:

"coil stock that is 6 turns per inch with a 1.5-inch diameter and made out of #14 wire."

If you can reasonably duplicate this form you should get close to the same shorted-turns count, plus or minus differences in the install details.

BTW, that coil as a purchased part from B&W is $60.  Sometimes you see this stuff at hamfests but you could go a long time before you happened upon the one you need.

Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM
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KA4NMA
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« Reply #5 on: September 30, 2013, 07:11:33 PM »

I am disabled and have trouble building things.  Shaky hands and bad vision limits what I can do.

Randy ka4nma
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W5DXP
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« Reply #6 on: October 01, 2013, 05:12:36 AM »

Nothing says you can't use your own homebrew coil as part of the bugstick build

Here's an excellent article on homebrewing coils:

http://www.eham.net/articles/29956
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W1JKA
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« Reply #7 on: October 01, 2013, 06:08:16 AM »

Re: KA4NMA reply#5

If you go the home brew route perhaps  a mechanically inclined neighbor/friend or member of local ham club (if any) could assist you with the on line construction methods. I often get assistance from the  High school Vocational Ed. dept. students when putting up antennas or other building projects.
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G7DIE
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« Reply #8 on: October 06, 2013, 02:34:31 AM »

I can't promise you pretty, but I can promise you efficient:



This is made from car copper brake pipe tubing on a 5" former, I stripped the wire from a hamstick, soldered the brake pipe to the top fitting, added thick gauge wire from the base of the coil to the base of the antenna and soldered it, As can be seen I use a tapped fly lead for band changing, I can get away with using the same shunt coil at the base of the antenna for 20/17/15m and bypass the shunt coil for 12/10m.

Here's the mk1 version where I used a crock clip fly lead for band changing and relied on hose clamps to secure the coil to the fibreglass shaft:

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KA4NMA
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« Reply #9 on: October 08, 2013, 04:46:40 PM »

Looks nice!  My nephew is an auto mechanic and maybe he has some surplus tubing.

Randy
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K8SOR
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« Reply #10 on: October 12, 2013, 04:38:29 PM »

I didn't know they used copper for brake lines---Every brake line I've seen was steel. Copper won't hold the pressure in a hydraulic system. 
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G7DIE
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« Reply #11 on: October 18, 2013, 01:44:21 PM »

I didn't know they used copper for brake lines---Every brake line I've seen was steel. Copper won't hold the pressure in a hydraulic system. 

Without knowing the tube diameter or wall thickness how can you can be so sure? but brake pipe tubing it most definitely is Wink
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M6GOM
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« Reply #12 on: October 18, 2013, 02:43:38 PM »

I didn't know they used copper for brake lines---Every brake line I've seen was steel. Copper won't hold the pressure in a hydraulic system.  

Its not pure copper but copper molybdenum. We moved from steel brake pipes in the UK some time ago. Why would you continue to use something that goes rusty when there's alternatives?

If copper won't hold pressure in a hydraulic system why is it used in copper pressure vessels?
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