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Author Topic: tr3 showing signs of life  (Read 3584 times)
KC9VZB
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Posts: 45




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« on: December 10, 2013, 02:51:11 PM »

I got another clue from a drake lover.there is a jumper on the remote vfo plug.Mine was missing,once restored,I had faint signals.Upon further looking I found a open 330k .After replacing,no difference.turned out every 330k measured meg ohms.After replacing the lot I had loads of stations,lots of volume. Then a pop, followed by silence .I,m enjoying the ride.Did the pop come from radio or power supply?Soo many parts sooo much time .I'll almost be sad when this radio is working right.almost.
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KD0REQ
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Posts: 849




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« Reply #1 on: December 14, 2013, 07:20:39 PM »

voltages you must check, grasshopper
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KG8LB
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Posts: 234




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« Reply #2 on: December 18, 2013, 05:37:45 AM »

Did you re-check the new resistor as well ?   Often the first place to look is the last place you worked  Wink
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N4NYY
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Posts: 4742




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« Reply #3 on: December 18, 2013, 05:49:17 AM »

Pop may be a cap. If that many resistors were out, I would changed them all. The caps may need to go, too.
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AA4HA
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Posts: 1377




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« Reply #4 on: December 18, 2013, 05:52:09 AM »

Bad caps may be popping resistors, like popcorn.

Resistors age over time, like we do. Capacitors go bad and turn into spree-killers on the highways.
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Ms. Tisha Hayes, AA4HA
Lookout Mountain, Alabama
KG8LB
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Posts: 234




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« Reply #5 on: December 18, 2013, 11:48:16 AM »

 Exactly , If you find the new resistor has failed the next place to look is the caps associated with that branch of the circuit .
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KC9VZB
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Posts: 45




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« Reply #6 on: December 18, 2013, 03:13:36 PM »

Thanks for all the help.found a blown cap .80 meter is now working in a wimpy fashion.I read in an article don't replace all the tubes,(after I already did) the radio will need to be aligned.I thought no big deal,I did it to a short wave set years ago.The manual is hard to understand.Its saying to use another radio tuned to WWV for a signal source.So I look up wwv and theres like 4 of them.I have an older set with WWV in 3 different places.Does it mater which one?Which one existed when the manual was printed?I have the vtvm although I hardly know what to do with it,there's too many leads.I tried to download a manual and all I got was a bunch add botts and viruses.Its not that hard to figure out trial and error.I remember  blowing several of my dads meters.My fluke digital is very forgiving.
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N4NYY
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Posts: 4742




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« Reply #7 on: December 18, 2013, 04:57:32 PM »

Thanks for all the help.found a blown cap .80 meter is now working in a wimpy fashion.I read in an article don't replace all the tubes,(after I already did) the radio will need to be aligned.I thought no big deal,I did it to a short wave set years ago.The manual is hard to understand.Its saying to use another radio tuned to WWV for a signal source.So I look up wwv and theres like 4 of them.I have an older set with WWV in 3 different places.Does it mater which one?Which one existed when the manual was printed?I have the vtvm although I hardly know what to do with it,there's too many leads.I tried to download a manual and all I got was a bunch add botts and viruses.Its not that hard to figure out trial and error.I remember  blowing several of my dads meters.My fluke digital is very forgiving.

VTVM is put across the speaker terminals. The analog dial help you peak the receiving signal. The better the signal, the louder the sound, the needle moves outward. When you reach a peak, it then heads back in the wrong direction. Just re-peak it.

If you do not have a VTVM, you can get one fairly cheap, or do what I did. I purchased Radio Shack Micronta 22-220A FET VOM, which emulates an 11 Megaohm VTVM, and works great. And they are like $30 on ebay.

The WWV is a good way to tune if you do not have an RF generator. But you may have to tune it on all the bands.
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