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Author Topic: How do you wire a 3 blade 220V clothes-dryer outlet (Nema 10-50) to Nema 5-15?  (Read 7885 times)
SWMAN
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Posts: 556




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« Reply #15 on: November 14, 2013, 07:18:07 AM »

 If I were you I would be very careful when working with neutral/ground situations. You can end up with some serious and dangerous problems if you are not 100% sure at what you are doing. It is really better and safer to add a new dedicated circuit for a 220 amp.    73  Jim W5JJG
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WD3N
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Posts: 13




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« Reply #16 on: November 14, 2013, 07:34:29 AM »

Maybe you could feed a subpanel with the dryer feed .
A panel for the shack .
Proper circuit protection .
Get an Electrician if you need one .
73
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KD0REQ
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Posts: 881




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« Reply #17 on: November 14, 2013, 08:37:32 AM »

can't properly feed a subpanel from two hots and a not.  subpanels are required to maintain separate common neutral and a safety ground.  he's still one dedicated ground lead short.
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KE4DRN
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Posts: 3721




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« Reply #18 on: November 14, 2013, 04:04:59 PM »

hi

agree no romex, buy 12-2 SJ type cord at home depot by the foot (lowes, etc)
and a 20 amp male and female (NEMA 6-20 P and R) don't use that range outlet.

Replace the 50A breaker with a double pole 20A breaker
same brand as the breaker panel.

73 james
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KK6BSB
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Posts: 8




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« Reply #19 on: November 14, 2013, 08:14:55 PM »

Thanks again for all the great info! How about be using the 12-2 SJ type generator-cord for the pigtail with an in-line 20 amp AC 600v rated-fuse on both hots?

73
Tim KK6BSB
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K8AXW
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Posts: 3722




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« Reply #20 on: November 15, 2013, 08:34:26 AM »

It's possible you're still overthinking this a bit OM.  The first question I have would be, "Are you still using this line for the clothes dryer" 

If you are, then I would suggest a receptacle for that capacity line.  If you don't and the receptacle shorts out or has another problem, it might turn into a welding machine before the large breaker in the box trips.  I've seen this on a 120VAC circuit in industry.

However, if you're no longer using that line for the clothes dryer, then replace the big breaker in the panel with a 20A breaker.  This will protect everything to the amp.  The amp fuse will/should protect the amp itself.
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KK6BSB
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Posts: 8




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« Reply #21 on: November 15, 2013, 10:26:30 AM »

Yes, over-thinking it a bit too much to avoid having to put in a new 20 amp breaker at the box but safety first! Will still build the 220V pigtail with the in-line fuses (just to protect the amp). After all the various warnings received from more experienced Hams, it's plain to see that you can't be too cautious when it comes to these voltages. Once again, thanks for taking the time to reply!

73
Tim KK6BSB
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KE4DRN
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Posts: 3721




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« Reply #22 on: November 15, 2013, 05:48:59 PM »

hi Tim,

The amp has fuses built into it right?
Save your money and time and skip these external fuses,
you will pay more for the fuses and  holders,
the less connections from power to device the better,
your dryer and electric oven don't have fuses in the pigtails.

A double 20 (240V) GE breaker is about $9,
the breaker for your panel should be in that price range,
unless it is a  Square D QO type and that is a bit more,
be sure to bring the one you are removing to the store and
match the brand up to a new one 20A double pole.

SO or SJO cord is just fine, sometimes called generator cord,
just a heavy rubber jacket over stranded conductors.

I hope you enjoy using your amp.

73 james
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