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Author Topic: KPC-3+ Power  (Read 10524 times)
K1JSH
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Posts: 7




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« on: March 23, 2014, 09:38:20 AM »

Ok... I'm a little bit at a loss.  I know just enough to get me in trouble, but not enough to really understand.

Let me preface that I am a new ham (under a year) and I have been jumping in head first into ARES!  My next step is to work through adding digital communications into my toolbox.  That being said, I don't know enough to do anything well... but I figure that the Amateur community is not going to flame me because I want to learn.

Here is what I have:


I have uploaded some pictures to the web of the jumpers.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1vPaaZeedPIZzdlNl9yMFNNNkU/edit?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1vPaaZeedPIcEp6TE1MT1FRUWM/edit?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1vPaaZeedPIZTJWM3FLNVlBVVk/edit?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1vPaaZeedPIWWRCU3RrOGFUSkk/edit?usp=sharing

I changed them based upon this article http://berkscountyaresraces.homestead.com/Kantronics_KPC-3____Aimail.pdf (page 5, last section).  Mine shipped new, but I don't see a jumper 13 in my unit.

I have plugged the serial cable into the KPC-3+, plugged the power adapter into the front of my power supply, turned on the power supply and then turned on the KPC-3+ and it does not light up.

I probably don't have something right... any thoughts?
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KE5GAE
Member

Posts: 153




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« Reply #1 on: March 23, 2014, 12:54:39 PM »

Quick question, since it is not clear (to me).  What are you trying to do?  What kind of "digital communications" are you after here?

Basil
KE5GAE
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K1JSH
Member

Posts: 7




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« Reply #2 on: March 23, 2014, 12:57:50 PM »

THanks for responding... Packet with Winlink.  Does that help?
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AA4PB
Member

Posts: 12672




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« Reply #3 on: March 23, 2014, 01:19:59 PM »

I don't understand what you mean by "I plugged the power adapter into the front of the power supply". Isn't the power adapter designed to be plugged into a 120VAC outlet? I believe the KPC-3 is designed to be powered from +12VDC so it's power cable would be wired directly to the 13.8VDC output of your power supply.

By the way, I can't get any of your JPEG pictures to display.
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K1JSH
Member

Posts: 7




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« Reply #4 on: March 23, 2014, 01:36:32 PM »

Here are some new pictures... Sorry ... don't know why Google Drive isn't sharing it properly...

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/16314940/DSC00701.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/16314940/DSC00702.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/16314940/DSC00703.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/16314940/DSC00705.JPG

This one is of the cable and power supply.  The cable has a "cigarette lighter" plug at the end.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/16314940/DSC00706.JPG

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AA4PB
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Posts: 12672




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« Reply #5 on: March 23, 2014, 05:03:13 PM »

Does the lighter plug contain a fuse? Many do. Is the fuse blown?  If you are getting DC power to the KPC3 then some lights should come on regardless of what other connections you have made. It should "light up" with nothing but power connected. Try plugging something else into the lighter socket on the power supply to make sure it is working okay. Check the wiring from the lighter plug to other end to make sure there are no broken wires - use an ohm meter to check continuity or a voltmeter to check for 13.8VDC at the KPC-3 end of the power cable.

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N8GD
Member

Posts: 10




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« Reply #6 on: March 25, 2014, 05:35:56 PM »

It looks like you're using the Byonics cable to connect to the KPC-3+.  The wiring on that cable won't work with the KPC-3+ when plugged into the DB-9 connector.  You need to connect the 13.8VDC to the KPC-3+ using a two wire cable plugged into the DC coaxial jack on the KPC-3+.  Hopefully using the Byonics cable plugged into the Kantronics DB-9 connector hasn't caused any damage to the unit.

Greg -N8GD
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K1OC
Member

Posts: 65




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« Reply #7 on: March 27, 2014, 08:09:46 PM »


You CAN apply power to the KPC-3+ via the DB-9 jack, BUT make sure the power cord is wired to the right pins AND you have to set a jumper inside the KPC-3+ to tell it to use the DB-9 jack for power. Check the KPC-3+ manual. There is a diagram in the back with the pin outs and a table with the jumper settings.

Good luck.

73 de Tony K1OC

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K1JSH
Member

Posts: 7




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« Reply #8 on: March 30, 2014, 10:56:01 AM »

Hi Tony,

I purchased a multimeter... good thing to add to my collection.

I put a cigarette lighter phone charger into my power supply.  That works so I know it isn't the power port.

http://www.byonics.com/cables/m12c.png

With the multimeter, I set it on continuity and I do not have continuity from the ground pin (6) to the cigarette fuse.  It comes out as nothing (multimeter says 1).  I did it from pin 7 (+7 to +18V) to the fuse, and get 0.

That tells me that the cable should be good, right?  Thanks for helping me.
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N8GD
Member

Posts: 10




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« Reply #9 on: March 31, 2014, 01:50:52 PM »

I see where your problem is.  The Byonics cable will indeed work (pin 7 is + and pin 6 is GND).  In your original photos, I see that you have J6 jumpered from the center pin to pin 1.  That is incorrect.  You must have J6 center pin jumpered to pin 2, per the Kantronics KPC-3+ manual:

Optional Connections to DB-9 Radio Port:
          Pin 7 of the DB-9 connector may be configured to allow you to apply power to, or
          to perform a soft reset on, your KPC-3 Plus.
     Applying Power through the DB-9 connector:
          To power the KPC-3 Plus from Pin 7 of the DB-9 connector, you must connect J7
          center pin and pin 2, J6 center pin and pin 2.

The J7 jumper looks OK.  If you don't have J6 jumpered as per the above description, you won't be feeding the power back to the power input, VIN, which is the same bus as that which comes from the coaxial DC power jack.  Redo J6 as above and I think it will work!

73,
Greg - N8GD
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K1OC
Member

Posts: 65




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« Reply #10 on: March 31, 2014, 09:07:19 PM »


Quote
With the multimeter, I set it on continuity and I do not have continuity from the ground pin (6) to the cigarette fuse.

I think that just means you don't have a short to ground.  That's a good thing.

I haven't looked at the manual, but I suspect N8GD has it right.

Let us know if changing the jumper works.

73 de Tony K1OC

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K1OC
Member

Posts: 65




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« Reply #11 on: March 31, 2014, 09:20:19 PM »


Quote
I did it from pin 7 (+7 to +18V) to the fuse, and get 0.

Oh, wait. From pin 7 to the fuse and you got nothing? That could be a problem, too. If you got no continuity to the side of the fuse toward the pins (i.e., not the side toward the tip), that's probably a broken connection somewhere, maybe at the pin or at the fuse. If you can open the DB-9 shell, take a look to make sure the wire is connected to the pin. 

Also check for continuity from the tip of the cigarette lighter plug to the far side of the fuse. If you get nothing, the fuse might be blown.

73 de Tony

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N8GD
Member

Posts: 10




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« Reply #12 on: April 01, 2014, 05:26:41 AM »

I think when he said he got "0" on his meter, he meant he got continuity.  Ohms scales read zero when there is a complete circuit of zero ohms.

I am positive that redoing the J6 jumper will solve the problem.  I traced it out on the KPC-3+ schematic and he has no connection to Vin with the jumper from center to pin 1 as he has it currently.  His photos allowed me to verify his current jumper settings.

N8GD
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K1OC
Member

Posts: 65




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« Reply #13 on: April 01, 2014, 07:58:06 PM »


Quote
I think when he said he got "0" on his meter, he meant he got continuity.

Ah, right, of course. I read it as, "I got nothing," meaning no continuity, rather than, "I got a zero reading on the ohmmeter," meaning no resistance, meaning continuity.  That's funny. Oh, well, it was after midnight.

Cheers,
Tony
K1OC

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