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1-10 of 11 messages
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Sticky Fingers
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by KG6WLS on October 16, 2009
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I'm planning on adding a small touch of class to my Bencher BY-2. I'd like to change out the stock paddles with wood and apply a clear coat stain. What kind of coating should I use that won't, within time, become "sticky" to the touch?
73
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RE: Sticky Fingers
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by WB6RXG on October 16, 2009
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Being a Guitar (and a little Banjo) player I would think that Lacquer would be ok. I have instruments that are over 30 years old that have not become sticky where my fingers are on them.
I would think that polyurethane would be ok also.
Enamels, epoxy and latex are a no go.
For a more natural looking oiled finish then look at BLO (boiled linseed oil) which is used a lot on fretboards.
Maybe someone else will have some info also.
73,
Stuart
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RE: Sticky Fingers
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by N5XM on October 18, 2009
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Good idea on the wooden fingerpieces. Save your money and get a ZN paddle or a Kent. You'll be very happy. Something I do you might want to note...I keep a small container of Gold Bond powder on the desk. If things get the least bit sticky or hot, put a little on your fingers and it becomes as smooth as a baby's butt. Kinda like chalking your pool cue. Rick, n5xm
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RE: Sticky Fingers
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by K5END on October 19, 2009
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My personal preference:
I would recommend >>>NOT<<< using varnish, lacquer, polyurethane, etc.
I DO recommend using oil instead, such as Danish (generic)finishing oil. One brand name is "watco."
Once you have the pieces ready to finish, use progressively finer sand paper up to 600 grit.
Then with the 600 grit begin "wet" sanding using the oil (use sandpaper suitable for wet sanding.) Work up to 1000 grit, still wet sanding. Wipe the wood surface clean after each sanding session. You may repeat the 1000 grit wet sanding several times.
The lumber yard will not likely have 1000 grit wet sand paper. Go to the auto parts store or somewhere they do auto painting and sanding.
If done properly, the wood surface will have an "ivory" feel to it. You'll ENJOY using the paddle all the more as long as you have it.
I've done this with gunstocks and you won't believe how nice this kind of smooth finish is to the touch.
I'd recommend a tight grain hardwood that is not brittle. You might even find some pieces with a nice burl. If the pieces have been sawn---I think they call it ""book sawn," book end" or "book matched"---the grain will be identical and symmetric on the faces. This makes for a very professional look. For example, the backs of the nicer acoustic guitars are sawn that way for symmetry.
Because the size of the paddles is so small compared to typical projects, you might consider some exotic hardwoods. Check out your local woodworking shop and they may help you find the perfect material.
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RE: Sticky Fingers
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by K5END on October 19, 2009
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PS. You 'can' use (boiled) Linseed oil or Tung oil, but I don't advise it. And those can get sticky, requiring additives such as "Japan dryer."
I've done a huge amount of oil finishing work over the years and feel very confident you'll be much happier with a properly done wet-sanded Danish oil finish.
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RE: Sticky Fingers
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by VA7CPC on October 19, 2009
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Polyurethane varnish should be fine. It dries hard, and most varieties are "water-clear", with no yellow color.
You can buy small cans in any hardware store. Brush on, let dry. Various levels of gloss are available.
A well-rubbed oil finish (I agree about Watco being good) will work fine, but is much more work to apply. This project sounds like a 'labor of love', though, so the amount of work is irrelevant.<g>
Charles
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RE: Sticky Fingers
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by K5END on October 20, 2009
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Don't know why I did not think of mentioning this.
One QSL card from an OM in Ohio came with some pics of custom finger pieces he had made for paddles.
If you were interested in buying instead of making, he might be a good source. I'll try to find that QSL card and post his info.
...
And...the XYL will shoot me now for sure. As if I don't have enough unfinished projects, I now feel the need to get some nice, burly hardwood and make some of these for my new Begali.
LDK
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RE: Sticky Fingers
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by VA7CPC on October 20, 2009
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The source for wooden fingerpieces is given here (along with a testimonial), about 5 messages down the thread:
http://www.eham.net/forums/CW/9691
Charles
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RE: Sticky Fingers
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by KG6WLS on October 21, 2009
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Thanks everyone for the input and the link provided. I've got a couple weeks off from work (a well needed vacation) and this should be a simple lil' wood project....unlike some of the other sand paper / cheese cloth and larger stain projects I've done in the past.
Cheers!
--... ...--
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RE: Sticky Fingers
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by WB2WIK on October 21, 2009
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Polyurethane does dry very hard and won't get sticky; however just one coat usually doesn't do the job, in any of the woodworking projects I've tackled.
My process is to sand the wood, apply stain as required (or not), brush on thin coat of polyurethane; wait until fully dry, then steel wool with very fine wool; use a tack cloth to remove all remnants, and apply another coat of polyurethane.
Steel wool, tack, apply, dry, steel wool, tack, apply, dry, a few times until you have the desired finish. For something as small as keyer paddles, this is a very small job. I've done it on 120" x 36" benches -- more work, especially all the steel wool rubbing.
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