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eHam.net Forum : CW : Generating CW Forum Help

1-7 of 7 messages

  Page 1 of 1  


Generating CW Reply
by N7FE on October 18, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
I am new to CW. I have been reading the posts here with great interest. I do have a couple of questions regarding the generation of the CW signal though. I want to pick a system that might fit my way of doing things so I did some searching but did not find what I was looking for, so here goes....

HELP!

Iambic
Single Paddle
Dual Paddle
Bug
Mode A
Mode B
Straight Key
Squeeze

Plus any number of other terms and methods associated with CW.

What are the pieces of equipment needed to use any of the above? What are the similarities and differences.

I barely know anything about this so any anticipation of questions would be appreciated as well.

Thanks
 
RE: Generating CW Reply
by WB2WIK on October 18, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
>Generating CW Reply
by N7FE on October 18, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
I am new to CW. I have been reading the posts here with great interest. I do have a couple of questions regarding the generation of the CW signal though. I want to pick a system that might fit my way of doing things so I did some searching but did not find what I was looking for, so here goes....<

::What you list aren't ways of "generating CW." That occurs inside the rig. These are ways to "key" the rig.

>HELP!

Iambic
Single Paddle
Dual Paddle<

::Iambic keying simply means using a dual paddle "squeeze" key and can eliminate the need for one key contact on some letters, numbers or symbols. Don't use this iambic mode if you're just getting started.

>Bug<

::A bug is an electromechanical key that uses a bouncing (spring) contact to make "dits," but you make all the "dahs" manually. Very old technology, dates back well more than 100 years. I wouldn't recommend this, either, if you're just getting started.

>Mode A
Mode B<

::Those are the two iambic modes.

>Straight Key<

::Old fashioned mechanical key that you "pump" straight up and down to make the dits and dahs. These date back over 150 years and are still commonly used by beginners but limit your sending speed to something around 20 wpm max unless you're very talented.

>Squeeze<

::This is one kind of electronic keyer paddle, which allows you to use iambic keying. If you use an electronic keyer, it's not bad to learn with a squeeze key, even if you don't use it to full advantage. Any squeeze key can be used in a non-iambic manner, emulating a single lever keyer paddle. You don't have to squeeze the paddles to make them work, you can hit the dit side and the dah side just like you would a single lever paddle, if you wish. Very versatile.

If you're just starting out on CW and making your first contacts, a regular hand key is probably preferred and how most operators started out. When your speed progresses to the point where it's very tiring using a hand key, go straight to an electronic keyer (the circuit is built into all modern transceivers, so all you need is the paddle), pick a paddle you like, and start using it. Learning to "paddle key" with an electronic keyer is not difficult at all, but like anything new, requires practice. It can't be taught over the internet -- just like riding a bike cannot be taught by a book.

WB2WIK/6
 
RE: Generating CW Reply
by WB2WIK on October 18, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
>Generating CW Reply
by N7FE on October 18, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
I am new to CW. I have been reading the posts here with great interest. I do have a couple of questions regarding the generation of the CW signal though. I want to pick a system that might fit my way of doing things so I did some searching but did not find what I was looking for, so here goes....<

::What you list aren't ways of "generating CW." That occurs inside the rig. These are ways to "key" the rig.

>HELP!

Iambic
Single Paddle
Dual Paddle<

::Iambic keying simply means using a dual paddle "squeeze" key and can eliminate the need for one key contact on some letters, numbers or symbols. Don't use this iambic mode if you're just getting started.

>Bug<

::A bug is an electromechanical key that uses a bouncing (spring) contact to make "dits," but you make all the "dahs" manually. Very old technology, dates back well more than 100 years. I wouldn't recommend this, either, if you're just getting started.

>Mode A
Mode B<

::Those are the two iambic modes.

>Straight Key<

::Old fashioned mechanical key that you "pump" straight up and down to make the dits and dahs. These date back over 150 years and are still commonly used by beginners but limit your sending speed to something around 20 wpm max unless you're very talented.

>Squeeze<

::This is one kind of electronic keyer paddle, which allows you to use iambic keying. If you use an electronic keyer, it's not bad to learn with a squeeze key, even if you don't use it to full advantage. Any squeeze key can be used in a non-iambic manner, emulating a single lever keyer paddle. You don't have to squeeze the paddles to make them work, you can hit the dit side and the dah side just like you would a single lever paddle, if you wish. Very versatile.

If you're just starting out on CW and making your first contacts, a regular hand key is probably preferred and how most operators started out. When your speed progresses to the point where it's very tiring using a hand key, go straight to an electronic keyer (the circuit is built into all modern transceivers, so all you need is the paddle), pick a paddle you like, and start using it. Learning to "paddle key" with an electronic keyer is not difficult at all, but like anything new, requires practice. It can't be taught over the internet -- just like riding a bike cannot be taught by a book.

WB2WIK/6
 
RE: Generating CW Reply
by N7FE on October 18, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
::What you list aren't ways of "generating CW." That occurs inside the rig. These are ways to "key" the rig.


Yeah that is what I meant: Generating CW characters or Morse characters.

Thanks for the explanations. Do you think there would be any advantage or disadvantage to just starting with the paddle/keyer method?
 
RE: Generating CW Reply
by AA4N on October 18, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
It's great that you are checking out CW. I think that, once you get past the initial learning curve, you'll find that it's a great mode. Many would argue that it's the best mode :)

Most folks will tell you that your best bet for a first key is either a straight key or paddles. Not too many will recommend the dreaded bug for a beginner. Although bugs have an undeniable cool factor.

I fall into the straight key crowd. Very intuitive, you spend your time learning the code rather than figuring out how to work the key. When you push the button, it makes the sound.

Paddles are great keys. They are almost effortless to operate when compared to the venerable straight key. When you are ready to go fast (after years in most cases) they are pretty much required. I've heard folks say that you should start with paddles since that's where you want to end up anyway. They do require a separate electronic keying circuit to work. But, as a previous poster said, most modern rigs have a keyer built into them. If you are running a boat anchor, you'll have to pony up another $100 or so to get a keyer though.

Squeezing is a technique that you can use with double lever paddles (most paddles are double lever). If you squeeze them both at the same time, it keyer goes "di-dah-di-dah-di-dah-..." Like iambic pentameter poetry. Thus the name. You don't have to use the iambic feature with paddles, it's a little trickier than just working them separately. Some folks have used paddles for years and never bothered going iambic. But, it is a neat trick with which to impress all of your CW friends.

A single lever paddle is very much like a double lever unit. But, they can't do iambic at all. Still, they say that if you want to go crazy fast, like world class competition fast,... then single lever is the way to go. But, that's so far out on the fringe of the hobby, that you shouldn't even factor it in when deciding on a first key.

So, to sum up, if you are shopping for a first key, I say buy a straight key, or a double lever paddle key (with a keyer if you need one). Your choice. But, buy quality. Cheap gear takes some of the joy out of life. check the reviews here on eham. Plenty of great gear to choose from.

That's my two cents...

73 and happy beeps to you

mike AA4N
 
RE: Generating CW Reply
by K5END on October 19, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
>
"Do you think there would be any advantage or disadvantage to just starting with the paddle/keyer method? "

Some of the Elmers told me to start with whatever my goal is and learn it that way. So I bought a Kent and off I went. At Dayton I tried a Begali just to see what all that extra cost was supposed to buy. I had planned to NOT buy a key that expensive. But when I tried it, there was no turning back.

There is perhaps one big disadvantage to not starting out with a straight key.

In my experience, if I try to go from squeeze paddle to straight key, it's like a Morse code train wreck. So now I am trying to learn it backwards so that I can do straight key like the real hams do.
 
RE: Generating CW Reply
by N3QE on October 19, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
There are certain new hams, gadget-a-holics, who are completely unattracted to straight keys but love keyers with scrolling menu options and LCD display screens.

I don't have a big problem with gadget-a-holics starting with a paddle.

I myself rarely go back to a straight key outside of SKN or demonstrating to the cub scouts.

Tim.
 

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