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Reviews Categories | Receive Accessories | MFJ 1026 Noise & Interference Canceler Help

Reviews Summary for MFJ 1026 Noise & Interference Canceler
MFJ 1026 Noise & Interference Canceler Reviews: 111 Average rating: 4.3/5 MSRP: $179
Description: The MFJ-1026 is designed to reduce noise or interference, or improve desired signals, before the noise affects sensitive receiver circuits.
Product is in production.
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HAMDUDE Rating: 5/5 Jun 7, 2009 19:01 Send this review to a friend
HF SAVIOR  Time owned: 6 to 12 months
agree 100% with prior reveiw, you have to take the time to work with it. saved hf for me, that's for sure, would recommend to all, but be prepared to take the time to set it up right.
N4HNH Rating: 5/5 Feb 8, 2009 23:10 Send this review to a friend
Does the job!  Time owned: more than 12 months
I'm sitting here looking at an S9+15dB noise level on 80m from electrical noise near the shack. The noise is intermittent and varies from S7 to S9+15 at times. This MFG-1026 has been consistently knocking out the noise for over a year, so I thought I should report my results for those of you who are wondering, as I once was, whether or not to try one.

I've got guys from the West coast coming in at S9 but cannot hear them without the MFJ-1026. But even the guys who are coming in at S9+15-20db have that electrical "buzz" on their audio without the MFJ-1026. When I turn on the MFJ-1026 and null out the noise I am left with only atmospheric noise and everyone is armchair copy.

The people who are bashing this unit simply have not learned how to use it properly or did not set up an adequate noise receiving antenna. I have to admit I am currently just using the supplied telescoping whip antenna and it is doing the job. If you have noise that is being generated by internal sources like computers, light dimmers, etc. the telescoping whip may be enough. But if you need to null out power line noise, you need an external antenna. I took an old G5RV out of mothballs and stuck it up for a noise antenna. I replaced the old wire with some new 14AWG insulated electrical wire and to my surprise I found that sometimes the G5RV actually out performs my OCF dipole. So I use an antenna selector to select which one will be my noise receive antenna and which is my main antenna according to operating conditions.

Note: Be very careful not to accidentally transmit into the MFJ-1026, if you accidentally hook up the antenna selector wrong. Keep the kilowatt away from directly feeding into the MFJ-1026. If you make the mistake I did the internal light bulb that acts as a RF fuse will blow. MFJ was kind enough to send me another very promptly. I wish they would design in a better RF fuse arrangement than the bulb since the bulb isn't easily replaced. They should improve the design to at least make the bulb replaceable without removing the cover. But I've only had to replace it once.

Learn how to use this device and you will be happy. I have my internal jumpers set so the Pre-Amp button selects between internal (telescoping whip) and my external noise antenna. The pre-amp is not necessary. Modern receivers are sensitive enough.

I use these quick steps to null out the noise:
1. Turn all knobs to the left (except leave T/R knob at 2) and set the phase switch to the Normal position.
2. Select the frequency range (above 7Mhz set to High).
3. Adjust the Auxiliary Antenna Gain to approximately half and Select which noise antenna, external or internal receives the noise at the highest S-units. I try to achieve at least 7 S-units of noise. Between S7 and S9 is good.
4. Adjust the Main Antenna Gain to the point where it just begins to cause the S-meter to rise above the S-unit level of the noise antenna.
5. Turn the Phase knob clock-wise slowly until you hear the noise begin to decrease and continue until you find the deepest point of noise reduction. You can watch your S-meter to see the noise level drop to its lowest point and you will also hear the pulses of noise decrease.
6. If step 5 did not null the noise press the Phase switch to select the Invert position and try step 5 again.
7. Once you achieve the best null effect using the Phase knob, make minor plus and minus "fine adjustments" to the Auxiliary and Main knobs to see if you can knock it down a bit more. This "fine-tune" procedure sometimes yields a bit more noise cancellation.

These steps will work. If you still cannot null the noise it means that your auxiliary antenna and your main antenna are not receiving the same noise source.

Note: It is normal for the signal level of received stations to be lower after noise cancellation (between 5 and 10 decibels). This is because you usually end up somewhere between a setting of 4 and 8 on the main antenna level when you have the noise nulled out the most. But forget the S-meter! YOu can hear the stations just fine.
KZ3J Rating: 5/5 Feb 5, 2009 09:48 Send this review to a friend
MFJ-1025 saved 40 meters!  Time owned: 3 to 6 months
Without the MFJ-1025, I would have had to completely give up 40m due to a massive local noise source that generated intermittent QRN/M. Indeed, unless I was in a QSO with a station with an almost 599 signal, I would lose the contact in the noise. (In fact, the noise becomes so powerful that it would literally begin to severely block my receiver). The 100% solution was the MFJ-1025, which is merely a well thought-out phase/amplitude box that feeds an out-of-phase, but equal in amplitude, signal to then be combined with your main RX/TX antenna’s signals. This allows for the almost complete cancellation of ANY offending signal(s) in a particular direction – IF IT IS ADJUSTED PROPERLY. The “adjusted properly” part is the major problem that some people are dealing with who give this MFJ unit negative reviews. The other issue is that you really cannot compromise too far on the second (noise gathering) antenna’s performance parameters; a proper noise antenna MUST be erected for this unit to function as designed, and it should have *similar* properties as compared to your main RX/TX antenna (gain, polarization, and radiation pattern. Even the wavelength distance from the main RX/TX antenna can be somewhat important). All of these issues are explained quite well in other MFJ-1025/6 reviews (and to a lesser extent in the unit's own manual).

However, the main thing to understand after you have set up the noise antenna is that it will initially take a while to find the “sweet-spot” for proper noise cancellation on your band of interest; as well as the time/experience you will need to learn to be able to quickly and effortlessly phase-out offending noise/QRM sources on-the-fly (if needed).

You must initially adjust five different knobs and push-buttons to correctly phase-out your interference. But after setting these knobs/push-buttons, typically only one knob need ever be slightly tweaked again for that particular band and QRM/N. And as stated elsewhere within some of these Eham reviews, you MUST HAVE PATIENCE in adjusting and learning to use the MFJ-1025 to get it to work as advertised. But believe me, it is worth the effort.

So, if your QRN/M problems are so bad you’re about to give up, then by all means purchase the MFJ-1025/6 -- you can’t really afford NOT to!

KG4ITA Rating: 5/5 Nov 26, 2008 01:14 Send this review to a friend
MFJ-1025  Time owned: more than 12 months
Does exactly what MFJ advertises and then some. Need to adjust main antenna gain, auxiliary antenna gain, and phase in order to reach the right combination. Also owned a 1026 with great results. Probably the greatest single improvement I have ever made to my transceiver. Would recommend it to anyone who wants to get better reception with less interference. A very worthy investment!!! :-)
WA4JM Rating: 3/5 Nov 22, 2008 09:22 Send this review to a friend
It Works, But....  Time owned: more than 12 months
Ordered mine from AES in Orlando. It arrived with the telescoping antenna rolling around in the box along with the power connector/cable. The instruction manual from MFJ is useless. It looks like it was written by someone needing special help in school. Thanks to the web and others, the tuning procedure was simplified into a workable situation.

As far as performance goes, it does work and I was able to null out S9+20 line noise down to about S8.
KD7RDZI2 Rating: 4/5 Nov 7, 2008 15:35 Send this review to a friend
works very well, could be perfect  Time owned: more than 12 months
I have been using this noise canceler since MFJ brought it into the market, about ten years ago.

The good of the 1026:
- cancels the directional interfering signal or noise completely in most cases;
- noise blanker I have used removes only particular types of noise. This unit removes all types of noise except atmospheric noise;
- can work with any type of antennas, horizontal, vertical with whatever polerization. I used one vertical and one inverted T2FD with success, as well the T2FD with a small sloper.

The bad:
- it can generate a lot of noise!!!! The two antenna inputs have only a high pass filter to attenuate MW. The inputs have active devices that with wideband antennas overload quite easily the unit. BOTH INPUTS SHOULD HAVE PRESELECTORS IN MY VIEW OR SELECTABLE PASSBAND FILTERS! Using preselectors I solved the issue of overloading.
- it only removes one noise, not all the noises;
- the price nowadays is very high and some solutions can be questionable (eg. the aux input is only partially protected), the active devices are cheap ones, maybe others with a higher ip3 could have been selected.

Overall, in my view, it is an accessory that may allow to hear signals well buried into the noise, killing completely the interfering noise, however it could be even ameliorated.
VK4TZA Rating: 5/5 Aug 30, 2008 01:04 Send this review to a friend
Works  Time owned: 3 to 6 months
I purchased the MFJ1025 after reading eham reviews, and was willing to try anything to improve using 80M. My new QTH has S8 noise on 80M + the static crashes and other suburban electrical QRM. I use the 1025 as a canceller. It works. Most nights I can adjust the unit to provide down to S zero noise under the static crashes and suburban QRM. RX looses 1 (2) S point. 80M is now workable again. As the reports say, you need a good RX antenna. Mine is another (low height) 80M dipole that is 1 S point down from the TX antenna. There is room for improvement. Yes the phase and main gain adjustments are “peaky”, but it works.
K0KS Rating: 5/5 Jun 6, 2008 10:56 Send this review to a friend
NOISE IS GONE --- Learn to use it !  Time owned: 6 to 12 months
It takes patience and understanding for this box but rewards are good. You must have a good sense antenna that hears the noise and you will null out desired stations in the same direction as the noise so it won't work for all situations. The null is deep and drops my BPL type noise by 30 - 35 dB. I added a rely to short the sense antenna so I don't blow the preamp when transmitting. The little whip is worthless but the pre-amp is necessary.
73 de Ken, K0KS
VK7JJ Rating: 5/5 Jan 28, 2008 01:25 Send this review to a friend
Hopefully helpful hint  Time owned: 0 to 3 months
Some observations that might help you decide:

1. It works best on any very strong local noise, eliminating it by near 100%

2. As the noise gets lower and more distant it is pretty much pointless.

3. When tuned to broad local noise it fixes the whole band, not just a spot frequency.

4. The instruction manual describes badly how to tune it. If I had not read the quick start mentioned by AE6CP on page 2 of this review I would probably have thrown the thing against the wall.

5. If you find it hard to find a null then TURN YOUR AGC OFF it makes a great difference. On my FT-857 the null is hard to notice until you turn the AGC off and then it is quite obvious and sharp.

6. In use, the RX signal strength of the wanted station is less than when the unit is turned off but the signal to noise ratio is hugely improved and that is what counts.

7. Your secondary noise antenna needs to be a good external antenna because the noise signals from your two antennas have to be the same amplitude or they cannot cancel out. So if the received signal from your second antenna is low, then the gain of your main antenna has to be reduced to that level and therefore the overall received signal level is reduced to that of your secondary antenna.

PS. My MFJ-1025 is a fully fledged MFJ-1026 inside with just the preamp switch spring disabled. It is easily restored and by placing a saddle on two pins to activate the preamp (download the MFJ-1026 manual and you will understand) and voila, you have the more expensive model. But after playing with the preamp for a while I felt it is a waste of time as it introduces obvious internal noise (as preamps do) and the variable preamp gain makes the tuning job more difficult.
NL7Y Rating: 5/5 Nov 24, 2007 22:37 Send this review to a friend
Works!  Time owned: 0 to 3 months
After fussing with an ANC-4 Noise Canceller for 12 years, I finally got a current model (Ver.4) MFJ-1026...local city noise runs S8-9 on 160M CW w/500Hz filters, mainly from power lines and electronic rigs-IC-765, TS-940SAT, and MK-V Field often struggle to break out a clean signal...the MFJ-1026 hooked to my GAP Titan as a sense antenna, then phased with the 160M Inv-L send/receive aerial cuts the noise to S0-1...BTW, I'm running the unit in-line with the receiver output/input RCA taps, and not feeding RF through it to the amp...the ANC-4 was not as effective at my QTH in a similar configuration, and gave at best 2-S units decrease in noise level.

The fuse bulb glows a bit when I run a KW, but who cares?...W8JI has some mods to improve performance on his Webpage.

73 Gary NL7Y
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