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Reviews Categories | DC Power Supply Distribution Panels | Anderson Powerpoles Help


Reviews Summary for Anderson Powerpoles
Anderson Powerpoles Reviews: 186 Average rating: 3.7/5 MSRP: $varies
Description: Anderson PowerPoles are the ultimate wiring connectors you can use in your ham shack. Once you try them, you'll never use anything else for everything from battery connectivity to removable master power links.
PowerPole Features:
Flat wiping contact system
Interchangeable Genderless design
Colored, Modular housings
Polarized housings
Product is in production.
More info: http://www.powerwerx.com
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<— Page 3 of 19 —>

K7SUB Rating: 1/5 Jul 12, 2012 06:58 Send this review to a friend
A product of hype  Time owned: more than 12 months
The "Standardized Connector" hype is pretty much a joke if you think about it. They are difficult to assemble, polarity can be switched, and they literaly fall apart. For anything up to 20 amps, I use the Radio Shack connectors which are keyed, self locking, cheaper, and no harder to assemble than powerpoles.
 
WA6MOW Rating: 3/5 Jul 12, 2012 06:47 Send this review to a friend
Expensive  Time owned: more than 12 months
I have been using these for a few years and think they are way over rated. There are much cheaper ways to go. If you use them, be sure to solder not crimp.
 
K7UXO Rating: 3/5 Jul 12, 2012 06:17 Send this review to a friend
Not worthy of being standarized  Time owned: more than 12 months
As far as connectors go, these are about average. With good technique, they go on just fine. They are not particularly rugged or reliable.

Generally, the connector that came with your radio is better than the Anderson Power Poles.

It seems the reason why most people use these is based on they hype they are the "standard ecom connector".

Yeah, whatever.

It is absolutely crazy the Amateur Radio ECOM community has "standardized" on a connector with limited availability, particularly during the emergency.

If I thought there was some value to to having standardized connectors for use in emergencies, it would use the low tech trailer wiring flat plug, which can be had in every autoparts and hardware store in North America. At least you could get those connectors during the emergency!

 
W8AAZ Rating: 4/5 Jun 24, 2012 16:07 Send this review to a friend
Acceptable and easy  Time owned: more than 12 months
I don't use these on ham gear at home because I am not into alot of swapping power wires on a constant regular basis. But I have used them at work where they were utilised as disconnects for test panels. They seem to be fine for that, but the equipment is not often disconnected, it is a cheap handy way to be able to do so or move them when needed. Maybe not the best for something that is daily, or even weekly, moved around. As for those that hate them, try the old fashioned Molex connectors, or if you must have the best and have lots and lots of money, aerospace cannon plugs could be best for you.
 
AI4WC Rating: 4/5 Jun 24, 2012 08:27 Send this review to a friend
Good....but  Time owned: more than 12 months
They can be frustrating, but if you are careful, you can get a good connector. Physically, they need a better connection device to hold them together and, if you orient them properly (in the "universal" side-by-side) manner, they are great. BTW, I bought the proper connector tool; makes a lot of difference!
 
W2MSK Rating: 1/5 Jun 24, 2012 03:54 Send this review to a friend
Poor Design  Time owned: more than 12 months
Difficult to assemble, absolutely no strain relief, expensive, light duty, feeble manufacturers kluge fix to overcome separation problems, and general poor design. Why so many find these acceptable is beyond me. Time to find a better design and put these plastic annoyances out of their misery.
 
KC2PQG Rating: 5/5 May 12, 2012 07:00 Send this review to a friend
I'm a believer...  Time owned: 0 to 3 months
It took me a while to get it right. Had to stare at the photos of proper connections for a while to finally "get it". My first try was with 16 awg wire into the 15 amp conductor. The relative thinness of the wire made it difficult to shove the contact in to the connector to get the "click." A pair of those super thin-needle nose pliers would help, but I can't find mine. My second attempt with 12 awg wire into a 30 amp conductor was flawless. I am now an expert!

Do yourself a favor and buy the circa $40 crimp tool from Powerwerx/West Mountain, et.al.. Note the Powerwerx one is different than the West Mountain one. I purchased the West Mountain one.

Also Note: West Mountain individually sells additional dies for other applicaions of which one will prove exceptionally useful ($14 die --a "0.255 die"-- for RG-6/58, etc.) Powerwerx only sells a full set of additional dies for lots more dough...

I agree with earlier post here...if the properly crimped conductor is pulling out of the connector housing, you are doing it wrong (you didn't get the "click"). Stare at the photos for awhile and you'll eventually get it. If the properly assembled conductor/connector is pulling out of your application, you are putting too much tension on the wire, period!
 
W2EM Rating: 5/5 May 6, 2012 17:23 Send this review to a friend
Great device  Time owned: more than 12 months
PowerPoles are great as most of the reviews attest. I use them on almost all my equipment. I sometime solder Powepoles especially when the wire is a small gauge but mostly crimp the terminals. Once assembled correctly you can’t mess up polarity. I like the large flat contact area which is rated higher than the wire.

There are some really nice crimping tools for them but they can be costly. If you only occasionally need a crimper there is a cheap alternative. Get a Harbor Freight (Pittsburgh) crimper Model No. 36411 and it only cost $7. This is a heavy duty tool with a lot of leverage. This crimper is perfect for the 30 amp contacts; they may be good for other sizes but I normally just use the 30 amp.

When crimping, place the seam of the round part of the contact against the round notch of the crimper and have the punch contact the other side. A firm squeeze will make the crimp. The contact may stick a bit in the tool. Use both thumbs and push the contact on each side of the tool to eject the contact. The crimp will probably be slightly oval and this will be a problem getting it into the plastic case unless rounded out a bit. To do this, just place it back into the tool in the middle area right next to where you just crimped. Orientate it correctly and a slight squeeze will get it perfectly round for inserting into the Powerpole case. Just crimp, eject, rotate 90 degrees, place in adjacent die and round out. Takes a couple of seconds. Remember, you have to get the contact to “click” into the case or it isn’t properly seated.
 
KE6YX Rating: 0/5 May 6, 2012 13:31 Send this review to a friend
POS or Junk!  Time owned: more than 12 months
Unlike some of the others, I have not had problems staking the metal blades to the wire or getting them to "click in." I use my VACO 1900 which I have owned for close to 30 years.

The real issue is getting the finished connectors to stay connected. The idea of using tape, glue, velcro, or some other method of keeping them together is just plain dumb!

Another potential issue is that there is no way to prevent getting the polarity crossed except being aware of the colors. They should be keyed to prevent accidentally connecting them wrong.

I am not an Emcom weeny, or trying to save the world with my Ham Radio, I just want to have a reliable way to power up my gear at home. If anyone has any good suggestions or options, please let me know, and I will dump the Powerpoles in a heartbeat.
 
VE3JSJ Rating: 5/5 May 6, 2012 09:57 Send this review to a friend
Excellent Product - if used correctly  Time owned: more than 12 months
I have used the 30amp Anderson Power poles for all my amateur radio equipment, makes swapping rigs between house, camper and car very easy.

I have used the 30A Power Poles with 10 gauge (stranded) wire. It is not easy to insert the bare wire into the 'blade' connector without having to cut off a few strands which do not go in, but with care it can be done. You will probably have to push the blade component firmly into the housing with a small screwdriver until you hear the 'click' which confirms the blade is seated properly.

That 'click' is absolutely essential, because if the blade is not seated properly in the housing it WILL pull back out, and twist in the housing. I have hung a 50lb weight in the wire, and lifted it by the Power Pole connector. It did not pull out.

The 'mated' connectors will pull out when a few pounds of 'pull' is used. Unless you are hanging your equipment off a rack using the powerpoles, they will not pull free.

If the blade is properly seated ('clicked'), and has not been deformed by deliberate bending, there is NO-WAY it will pull out or twist. But inadequate crimping, or bad soldering will cause the wire to pull out.

I have no experience with soldering wire to the blade connectors, but it would work - provided there is no 'blob' of solder to prevent the blade component seating in the housing.

When crimping the wire, it is very important to use the proper crimping tool AND follow the recommended crimping procedure (see the instructions which come with the power poles). Trying to use pliers etc. will most likely not result in a satisfactory crimp. The crimping tools are not cheap, so it is probably not worth using the power poles if you only want to make two or three connections. When crimping, I use both hands and squeeze the crimping tool as hard as I can! It is not an operation you can perform just using your thumb and forefinger.

When using thin wire, such as gauge 22, it is necessary to fold the wire back on itself at least twice to get adequate 'thickness' to crimp properly. Since it is impossible to push the blade component into the housing using the thin wire, the blade component must be pushed in with a small screwdriver in order to seat ('click') the blade.

Bottom line? Power Poles work, but only if properly crimped, with the blade component fully seated ('clicked') into the housing.
 
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