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write your own review of the Yaesu G-1000DXA.
Jan 16, 2007 09:30
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Time owned: 0 to 3 months
I recently replaced a dying HD-73 with a new G-1000DXA. I live in an area subject to extremely high winds and so wanted a rotator that would be over-built for the 10-15 sq. ft. of antennas I use. After a fair amount of research, I settled on the G-1000DXA and have not been disappointed.
The previous review of the G-1000DXA was a great help in getting my rotator calibrated and installed. I have a shorter run of control cable (<100 feet) so I did not experience the voltage drop issue or problems with the small size of the Molex connnector on the control box.
I was able to perform the calibration procedure without needing to re-use the Molex connector simply by tinning the stripped ends of a short run of control cable and insterting them into the appropriate positions on the control box connector. I did have to solder the control cable to the rotator connector, however, and then do so again when installing the rotator. I could have avoided this procedure if I were not replacing an existing rotator with the control cable already routed. Calibration was simple and relatively quick following the well-written instructions.
Installing the G-1000DXA in my Aluma-Tower T-40H 40' crankup was a breeze. The mounting bolt pattern was identical to the HD-73. Its top shell is smaller than the HD-73 so it passes through the outer section of the tower easily, allowing me to crank the tower down without the previous difficulties. I need only remove the control cable connector on the rotator to provide clearance.
I was not put off by the aluminum clamshell design of the mast clamp since my HD-73 was also all-aluminum. Yaesu has included an extra sheet of instructions to help avoid over-torquing the bolts and breaking the clamshell. The teeth on the inside of the clamshell engaged my aluminum mast tightly and have held up well for two months so far without use of the mast through-bolt. There have been no 80+ mph winds in that time, so the true test is still coming, although it has held up perfectly at 45-55 mph.
As for operation, the rotator control box is brightly illuminated and nicely functional. The azimuth indicator is easily visible from across the room and appears to be quite accurate. The variable speed control is a nice plus. The pre-set feature did not play a part in my choice of this rotator, so I am not as concerned about its weaknesses. I have not noticed any loss of calibration, although it is clearly not designed for fine azimuth control. I typically use the pre-set control simply to move the antennas to within 20-30 degrees of the desired position and then touch up the azimuth with the standard controls. It's nice to be able to send the rotator on its way automatically, even if the end point is not precise.
Overall, I have to rate this rotator as an excellent product and highly recommend it to anyone in need of a medium-capacity rotator at a surprisingly affordable price.
Jun 10, 2005 12:59
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Time owned: 0 to 3 months
I am currently using this product to turn a Tennadyne T-8 LPDA mounted on a Tashijan WT-51 crank up tower. Here are some of problems, I have encountered with the rotor.
A. The plastic Molex connector used to connect the rotor control cable to the rotor control box is substandard for this application.
o Pins are inadequate for larger gauge wire required for those long rotor cable runs.
o The receptacle for the six conductor Molex connector has a known issue of intermittent contacts. Basically the female pin located in the rotor control box begins to deform after repeated insertion of the male pin. This commonly causes the rotor to either work intermittently or not at all. To fix the problem one must use a small jeweler’s tool and press the female sockets back into proper form. It should be noted that Yaesu has told me over the phone that 90 percent of the rotors they receive in for warranty work have this problem. It’s a simple fix, but to someone whom does not have a maintenance background, this is a real problem.
Fix Action: Reintroduce the Jones plug found in their SDX line of Rotor.
B. Yaesu’s indoor test and calibration procedure (only one connector!).
o Yaesu has its users perform an indoor calibration and test procedure. The problem is that Yaesu only provides the user with one Molex rotor control connector. Once the connector is assembled for the test it is almost impossible to disassemble the connector without damaging one of the pins.
o In my case, I had to cut the connector from my rotor cable and order a second one in its place; to reinstall on the rotor cable after the installation of the rotor was complete.
Fix Action: Provide user with a small pre-built test cable, supply two Molex connectors, or reintroduce solder type Jones plugs.
C. Rotor Preset control function never seems to work correctly for long, after installation.
o I have found that the Preset control only stays in calibration for a period of about a week after completed (I have done this calibration three times). To date I am not sure what the reason is for this malfunction, on average I am off by 30 degrees from my preset input after about a weeks duration of time.. I am currently working with Yaesu regarding this issue.
o The knob on the preset has a tick mark that is the same color as the knob and panel itself. It makes it very difficult to read, especially during the Preset calibration procedure.
Fix Action: No fix action for the first bullet as of yet. As for the second bullet, paint tick mark on knob bright color or better yet, illuminate the tick mark on the knob.
D. Mast Clamp made from substandard material.
o The mast clamp is made out of aluminum. If the user torques the compression bolts too much the clamp will eventually crack.
o Due to the mast clamp being made of a soft metal an anti-twist bolt is implemented. This requires the user to drill a hole in the mast prior to installation. Reviews written within eham, and reports from my antenna manufacturer (whom uses the same rotor and antenna himself) suggest leaving this bolt out of the assembly. The reason for leaving this bolt out is due to the certain destruction of the rotor in the antenna is subject to a high wind condition. In my mind it is better to just let the antenna free spin as opposed to stripping the rotor gears.
Fix Action: Use better materials that allow for better compression in the mast clamp thus alleviating the need for a anti-twist bolt.
E. Significant drop of Voltage between Rotor Controller and Rotor.
o The pins supplied with the Molex connector used on the rotor control cable are not large enough to use with larger gauge rotor cable, associated with long 100’ plus runs. Further more, it is almost impossible to manipulate larger conductors into the Molex connector housing due to the tight space you have to work with. I can tell you from personal experience, if you use large gauge wire with this connector is will eventually separate from the pin and fall out of the connector housing!
o Due to the fact I was forced to use smaller gauge wire, I noted a drop of over 3 VDC between the rotor control box and the rotor. (it should be noted my cable run is approximately 150 feet)
1. As I stated before, re-implement the Jones plug, thus allowing the user to easily install large gauge wire.
2. I have come up with a modification procedure that for all practical purposes is a band aid for the problem, and should only be attempted by personal whom are comfortable with “do it yourself” electronics projects.
1) Connect the full length of cable you intend to use between your rotor control box, and the rotor.
2) Turn the Speed Control Knob (VR3) to full CCW
3) Remove the back shell of connector 7 pin round connector supplied by Yaesu.
4) Attach multi-meter to pins 4 & 5 of the 7 pin round connector.
5) Remove cover of rotor control box and locate VR1007 (10K) on the CNTL-UNIT board. (This variable resistor controls Av or Gain of OP-AMP Q1007)
6) Turn the rotor power on.
7) Press the C.W. Right (S4) toggle switch and note the voltage between Pins 4 & 5.
8) Turn Variable Resistor VR1007 to achieve approximately 10.5VDC between pins 4 & 5.
9) Duplicate Step 8, only this time Press the C.C.W. Left (S3) toggle switch.
10) Press either the C.W. Right (S4) toggle switch or the C.C.W. Left (S3) toggle switch and slowly rotate the Speed Control Knob (VR3) Clockwise.
11) While turning the Speed Control Knob (VR3) make certain you never exceed 29.5VDC between Pins 4 & 5 while making the transition between full CCW and full C.W. with VR3. Typically one should see something to the order 24 – 15 VDC when VR3 is set to the full C.W. position.
• WARNING: The modification above was done with 150’ cable run. The user should make certain that the Voltage between pin 4 & 5 never exceeds 30VDC (Max Voltage for the OP-AMP). Longer cable runs may cause a scenario where limits of the OP-AMP are exceeded!
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