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KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher

from Craig Lund, KE1Q on November 10, 2015
View comments about this article!

'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher
KE1Q's Mast Launcher for Portable // Fixed Use
(A Poor Man's version of the AB-577 Mast/Launcher)

Consider for 'Field Day', Vacation or Fixed Use

I'm not out to re-invent the wheel-maybe just putting a little more air in a soft tire. I was looking for a universal mast support for Field Day portable or fixed use that met a few requirements:

Easy to handle and set-up by one or two people (two much easier)
Is inexpensive
Can support a hex antenna with rotator on top
Can reach at least a 40' height using a strap winch
Can be easily moved to the site in a pickup truck
Can be used over and over

The product I came up with is 10-12' high when assembled (Figure 1) and has its' main section made from a 4x4x12' pressure treated (pt) beam. The longest section is 6-1/2' (lower part). It has to accommodate the adding/removing of 5' mast pieces and space for a strap winch. The top section can vary from 4 feet to 5-1/2 feet long. The shorter length could be better for portable use if reaching the top standoff bracket is a long reach with a stepladder. Figures 1, 2, both show the top section with 4 feet due to easier ladder accessibility.


Figure 1

The keys to this mast launching support are its' strap winch, its' versatility and its' portability.

The portable version has raised a mast with a K4KIO hex antenna and a Yaesu G-450A rotator to 40' using 3 levels of 3-guys and a strap winch (Figure 2), and it was done by myself with a small assist from my spouse. Of course, with a beam on top, guy control becomes very important and an extra man is handy and will cut the install time exponentially.


Figure 2

Not only does this design work for portable use, but can be easily adapted for more permanent use, such as attaching to the side of a building or setting in a bucket of cement. For these uses the full 12' length is recommended. (Figure A) shows my mast support attached to the end of my 15' high garage. For my permanent install I used the four guy (90°) setup with three levels of guys and with a fourth level guy ring installed in case I go past the 50' high mark and need it. (Figure B) shows the finish product at the 50' level with the K4KIO hex and a Yaesu G-450A rotator.


Figure A


Figure B

The mast was made using 5' sections of 1-1/2” EMT (1-3/4 inch OD) and Bend-Gard™ Couplers. This is the same type of mast that had my personal K4KIO hex antenna and G-450A rotator up at 54' for the last 4 Maine winters standing tall and no bent tubing. For info on the Bend-Gard™ mast set-up, visit www.bend-gard.com.

PORTABLE USE
If you are interested in portable use, then follow all the steps to complete it. Or you can design your own base and skip ahead, as long as it functions to support the 4x4 and it accepts four re-bar stakes.

FIXED USE
If using at home and attaching to a building or placing in cement, then there's no need to construct the base, so skip ahead to the 'INSTALLING BRACES' paragraph after cutting the 4x4 sections in the next paragraph.

CUTTING THE 4 X 4 X 12' INTO SECTIONS
Note: A list of materials I used is included at the end of the article.

Before we start the base, cut the 4x4x12' pt (pressure treated) into a 6-1/2' piece to be the lower base section and a 5-1/2' top section. As noted earlier, you can cut an additional 12 to 18” off the top section (for portable use) if it makes your ladder reach to the top standoff bracket much easier. You can cut this off now or wait until later when you're more sure if it's necessary.

A few pictures and some instructions and you can be on your way. Here we go...

MAKING THE BASE (Figures 3, 4):


Figure 3


Figure 4

I used two pieces of 1/2” plywood about 18”x18” (close is fine) and secured them together for a 1” thickness. Now cut a 36” piece of 2x4 and lay it diagonal on the plywood. Drill 1/4” holes through both 2x4 and plywood about 3” in from the diagonal corners and attach with Ό x 2-1/2” bolts. Now cut two pieces of 2x4 for the other two diagonals. Drill two holes in each piece and attach with bolts. Note: on these two pieces leave at least 5” from the center of the plywood to the closest hole. Lastly, drill 5/8” holes about 2” from the ends of the 2x4s to later accommodate the 1/2”x2' rebar stakes. Flip the base over so the plywood is on top.

DRILLING THE 'L' BRACKETS (I used 4 each 2” x 4” x 1/8” steel 'L' brackets from Home Depot's lumber department). This operation is much easier if you have a small drill press, but can be done with a hand drill and some care. Make sure you lubricate/cool the drilling area as you proceed. All four holes in each bracket will be drilled in about 5/8” from the sides. On the 2” side drill the two holes in about 3/4” from the end. Note for all holes: Center punch all the holes for an easier drill bit start. On two brackets on the 4” side, drill the holes in about 3/4” from the end. On the other two brackets' 4” side, drill the holes in about 1-1/4” from the end. This way the 2” lag screws won't hit each other when installing.

ATTACHING 'L' BRACKETS TO PLYWOOD BASE: Find the approximate center of the plywood and place a small piece of 4x4, if you have a small piece laying around, approximately centered and scribe the four sides on the plywood with a pencil. If no small piece, then use the base section you just cut. Stand a section upright on the plywood center and mark its outline on the plywood. Important note: when marking the outline, align the 4x4 so it's in alignment with the diagonal 2x4s of the base. This way when you place the 'L' brackets, both bolt holes in the 'L' brackets' 2” side will be drilled through both the plywood and into the 2x4s.

Place one bracket against one side of the 4x4 and mark the holes on the 2” base side. Drill the two holes using a 3/16” drill bit, approx size, and fasten with two 5/16 x 2-1/2” lag screws. Center the 4x4 upright again and place another 'L' bracket next to the 1st one (90°), and mark and drill the holes. Again attach the bracket with two 5/16 x 2-1/2” lag screws. Again, stand up the 4x4 and mark and drill and attach another bracket. Hold off placing the 4th bracket for now.

Now with three brackets attached to the base, stand the 6-1/2' section of 4x4 upright and mark the locations for the vertical holes. Drill the two holes for each of the three brackets into the 6-1/2' section. Attach with 5/16 x 2” lag screws. The 6-1/2' piece should easily stand on the base by itself. Now, place, mark, drill all four holes and attach the 4th 'L' bracket.

'INSTALLING BRACES' between the two 4x4 sections (Figures 5, 6):


Figure 5


Figure 6

First, cut two pieces, each 18” long, off of the 1 x 4 x 8' pt board. The next step is installing the 1 x 4 x 18” pt braces above and below the two 4x4 sections. Both 4x4 sections need to be approximately level and in-line. It's easier if you remove the base so you can work closer to the floor-less chance of it tipping off the supports. Separate the two 4x4 sections by a good inch (winch opening).

Place pieces of 1x4x18” on the top and bottom of the 4x4s equally overlapping the 1” space. I clamped around the three pieces on one side with two wood clamps. We will drill and attach one side at a time. That will allow us to line up the sections better if we don't drill the holes perfectly. Mark the four holes on one of the clamped sides as follows: All holes are in from the sides about 1”. From the 1” opening end of the top 1x4x18” mark two of the holes in about 1-1/2”. Move in another 5-1/2” and mark the other two holes. Drill one 5/16” hole through all three layers. Make sure your bit is long enough to go through all three layers. Place a 5/16 x 5-1/2” hex bolt w/washer through the hole, washer, nut and snug it just tight. If the 4x4 has moved out of alignment some, you can tap it back into position at this time. Drill another hole and repeat the process. Now the 1x4x18” is rigid on one end so you can remove the clamps and finish off the other two holes on this side of the 4x4.

Now you can do the other side of the 4x4 in the same manner. Check your 1” spacing, your level and your alignment and then clamp as before. Drill and attach as done on the other side.

INSTALLING THE FLASHING: attach the flashing over the top of the bottom section (by the 1” separation) of the 4x4x6-1/2'. Cut a piece of flashing at least 12” long and overlap it on the end of the 4x4. The flashing will cut down on the friction when moving the strap. Fold it flat on the edges and nail it as tight as possible. I used four roofing nails on each side.

INSTALLING THE STANDOFF SUPPORTS AND BRACKETS (Figure 7):


Figure 7

Next we install the lower 3 or 4” standoff bracket. It can be placed about 1 to 6” above the 1” opening. If using a shortened top section, 1” above is better. This gives more separation between the two standoff brackets. This will be the side holding the mast so attach it on a side with a 1” opening. Cut two pieces of 1x4 into 12” pieces (other piece goes for top support). Offset two 3/16” holes in the center area and attach with 5/16 x 2-1/2” lag screws. Center the 3” or 4” standoff bracket on the support and mark the holes. Drill 5/16” holes and secure with 5/16 x 1-1/2” hex bolts with washers and nuts. Next mount the top standoff support just below the top of the structure in the same manner as the lower one and attach the standoff bracket. If you haven't shortened the top section yet and plan to do so, now is the time.

MOUNTING THE GUY ROPE SCREW EYES (eye lags): Place the three Ό x 3” eye lags a couple of inches below the top standoff support. Place them on the three other sides from the standoff support side. Drill three 3/16” holes with the odd side hole offset an inch to keep from contacting the other two eyelets, then install. Your lowest level of guy rope support attaches here.

MOUNTING THE WINCH (Figure 8).


Figure 8

It's easier to install in the flat position before standing the support upright. Position it on the backside from the standoff brackets and down from the 1” opening in a comfortable position, say 18”. You'll need extra lag screws if not included with the winch.

The mast support structure is now complete.

A few thoughts:
You may notice a few extra holes in the framework. Disregard them as they were from other designs I tried along the way.

You'll need a ladder for portable operations. I used a Werner 16 footer that collapses into about 4' and is rugged and very portable and sets up as an 8' stepladder. If installing a beam on top, either an extra man or extra ladder is helpful to hold the beam off the ground while you attach it to the mast/rotator and attach the necessary cables.

When splitting the support for transporting, the easiest way is to remove the 5/16 x 5-1/2” bolts from the bottom section driving them out with a plastic/hard rubber head hammer (doesn't damage the threads) and a small rod or a screwdriver with a shaft smaller than the bolts. You may have to loosen a little, but not remove; the top four support bolts to install/remove the bottom piece.

Caution on winch hookup to mast (Figure 9):


Figure 9

When attaching the winch strap to the mast pipe, I used a 2” muffler clamp. Clamp it in the web area just above the winch's hook a to a spot about 2” above the point on the pipe where the top of the coupler and pipe meet (about 7” from the bottom). Don't over tighten it and don't clamp it in the zone where the Coupler will be placed as the muffler clamp may ding the pipe and then the Coupler won't slide on to the pipe.

On the 1-1/2” EMT (1-3/4” OD) mast with Bend-Gard™ Couplers (Figure 10):


Figure 10

There seem to be a reluctance to use EMT for permanent use though I have had exemplary performance from it at my home. For portable use it could be ideal. You have very transportable 5' sections, they are inexpensive, they are quite rugged, and they go up and come down very easily with a very minimal number of people. With Bend-Gard™ Couplers they fit great and add rigidity about every 4' 3”. What's not to like! For more info on the BEND-GARD™ mast setup visit: http://www.bend-gard.com/.

INVENTORY LISTING:
1 ea 4 x 4 x 12' pt (pressure treated) beam
1 ea 2 x 4 x 8' stud
1 ea 1 x 4 x 8' pt board
1 ea 18” x 18” x 1” (or equivalent) piece plywood
4 ea 'L' brackets 2” x 4”x 1/8” thick ($3.15 ea)
4 ea 1/2” x 2' rebar rods
6 ea Ό x 2-1/2” hex bolts, nuts, flats
8 ea 5/16 x 2” lag screws (hex heads)
12 ea 5/16 x 2-1/2” lag screws (hex heads)
8 ea 5/16 x 5-1/2” hex bolts
4 ea 5/16 x 1-1/2” hex bolts
50 ea prox. 5/16” flat washers
12 ea 5/16” nuts (threads to match bolts)
3 ea Ό x 3” screw eyes (eye lags)
1 ea 12” piece of 3” to 3-1/2” flashing w/8 roofing nails

All of the above came from The Home Depot hardware and lumber sections except for the plywood and flashing which I had laying around.

1 pr 3” or 4” standoff brackets rated for 2-1/2” pipe.
3starinc.com has a large selection.

1 ea strap winch 1500# came from Wal-Mart. The brand I have is American Power-Pull.

Much of this article is probably common sense with a few new thoughts here and there. Sometimes common sense reminders are a good thing...

This article written and prepared by:

M Craig Lund, KE1Q
11 Waco Drive, Biddeford, ME 04005
email: craig@bend-gard.com

Member Comments:
This article has expired. No more comments may be added.
 
KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher  
by KJ4DGE on November 10, 2015 Mail this to a friend!
Great article, well written and concise. Pix were very good too.

Best DX

Greg
 
KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher  
by NE9V on November 10, 2015 Mail this to a friend!
Nicely done and well written article. My comment is that it would seem useful to round off the top of the lower section so that the flashing is covering a rounded section of the 4x4 rather than a sharp corner. A minor point but it might help the winch to work more smoothly.

Also, do you have a photo of the mast at the bottom of the support post? Is there any type of pivot or does it rest against a standoff?

Thanks for the effort to post this article.
 
KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher  
by K1KP on November 10, 2015 Mail this to a friend!
Great article on construction of this device, but I'm not sure I understand how one would deploy it. Do you have the entire 40' mast, with rotator and hexbeam, assembled horizontally on the ground, and then raise it to vertical? It seems that most masts would not tolerate this and would bend.

Or do you mean that you raise the mast, rotator, and antenna assembly to vertical while it is telescoped to 10', and then extend it vertically the rest of the way?

A bit more explanation of how to use it would be helpful, as it is not obvious.

This could be great for FD, as it reduces 'critical mass' to deploy an antenna at 40'.
 
RE: KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher  
by K9MHZ on November 10, 2015 Mail this to a friend!
Looks nice!
 
RE: KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher  
by KB1GMX on November 10, 2015 Mail this to a friend!
Good on you.

I've done this for over a decade. I don't use and didn't
have then the Bend Guard parts. I just cut a 14 inch
section and slit it to make a sleeve to couple EMT
sections. I've not gone as high as it was not what I
needed. I've also use a block and tackle with pulleys
or a winch with the same result.

Hint if 1.5inch doesn't seem stiff enough try 2" or larger as its much stiffer.


Allison

 
KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher  
by K5TED on November 10, 2015 Mail this to a friend!
nice work
 
KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher  
by N2UJN on November 11, 2015 Mail this to a friend!
Absolutely excellent article, and, on a topic I have been sort of struggling to understand for a while: How to build a mast for a hex beam with a good rotor atop it? Just a great article. Thanks.
 
RE: KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher  
by AA4LR on November 11, 2015 Mail this to a friend!
EMT is not a structural material. While Rigid EMT is very heavy, the alloys it is made of are not designed as a structural support. EMT is designed to enclose wiring and protect it from damage. It is not a good choice as a mast material.

For a mast, you want something that is designed as a structural material. We're talking TUBING. Not pipe. Pipe is designed to contain liquids. Tubing.

6061/6063 or 7075 Aluminum tubing is light-weight and has more strength than EMT. But for something this tall, you really need chrome-moly steel tubing.

Yes, these materials are more expensive than EMT, but they are designed to do the job. When properly specced and supported, they won't fail in bad weather, which EMT most certainly will -- taking your expensive antennas with them.

Spend the money to use the proper materials for the job.
 
KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher  
by NW0LF on November 11, 2015 Mail this to a friend!
I don't know about using EMT for a 40' mast but I use a 10' section of 2" fit over, I believe, 1-3/4" EMT for an easy to take down mast for my Cushcraft R-5. Been up since 2006 and have had no issues here and still looks brand new. The left over 1-3/4" makes a great breaker bar from helping to remove lug nuts.
 
RE: KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher  
by K4IA on November 11, 2015 Mail this to a friend!
That's my question. Are you raising the entire 40 foot mast Iwo Jima style or are you pulling up the first ten-foot section and pushing the rest of it up from the bottom?
 
RE: KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher  
by K1PJR on November 11, 2015 Mail this to a friend!
Nice construction but how do you raise the mast? The winch strap is connected to the mast a few feet from the stand off. It would only raise it that amount. Is the mast tightened to the standoffs? I would think no or you couldn't raise it. I'm really confused.
 
RE: KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher  
by W6BP on November 11, 2015 Mail this to a friend!
Very interesting article.

If I understand this correctly, you would:

1) Assemble the first few (two or three) sections of pipe and stick the top through the upper antenna bracket, which I assume is loosened enough to allow the couplers to pass through when the mast is raised.

2) Assemble the lower bracket around the pipe, leaving it loose enough to pass couplers.

3) Extend the winch strap and clamp it to the bottom of the pipe, which is presumably resting on the bottom platform.

4) Winch up the pipe until it's almost all through the lower bracket.

5) Add a coupler and another section of pipe, then release the winch ratchet and let the bottom-most pipe section sit on the platform.

6) Go to step 3, then repeat 3-6 as many times as necessary/desired.

7) Tighten the lower bracket.

8) Not sure how you tighten the upper bracket, but tighten that, too.

Or something completely different. As has been said, this could use a little more explanation.

 
RE: KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher  
by N2UJN on November 12, 2015 Mail this to a friend!
Based on a combined look at Figure 8, and, Figure 9, it appears that the wench raises the mast in a vertical position always.

A complete raising appears like it would take some time since the winch must raise the mast about what appears to be 1.5 feet or so, then, winching must be stopped, and, the winch strap re-attached below its horizontal point to a lower point on the mast, then, start winching again. So, speedy it does not appear to be, but, perhaps better than push up mast like I have from Rohn (which is steel, and, must be in excellent shape to push up).

But, if the author describes the process that would be very helpful.

 
RE: KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher  
by W1VT on November 12, 2015 Mail this to a friend!
http://www.k4lrg.org/Projects/AB-577_Operators_Manual/index.html

The 74 page manual for the AB-577 may help answer and questions on how to safely install this mast/launcher.
 
RE: KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher  
by KE1Q on November 12, 2015 Mail this to a friend!
Thank you all for all the interesting and thoughtful comments.
Where the article was mostly about the Mast Launcher and not the mast, I,regretfully,did not deal with the mast installation in enough detail.

KG6AF has the procedure almost perfect. Thanks,Robert.
Slight variations include:
-I assembled two 5 footers and leaned it against a step ladder at a convenient angle, installed the necessary hardware at the top including hex, rotator, guy ring, etc. Then I angled the mast base over to the Mast Launcher base so I could loosely connect the mast assembly to the lower standoff. Then,on a stepladder, I loosely connected to the top standoff. Note: This is probably more complicated because this was done by myself with a small assist from my spouse.

KG6AF's steps 3-7 are perfectly described. And the upper standoff at about 10-1/2' high is secured from the stepladder.

Also, to another comment-in Figure 8 the strap goes up and through the 1" opening(about 6' or so high)and then down the other side to the ground level. Figure 9 shows the winch at the top of its' travel, and the next section has been added and bolted with a 5/16" pan head. So, from Figure 9, the next step is reversing the winch direction,from up to down, and lowering it a few inches until the section you just added hits ground. Then remove the 2" clamp from the mast and lower the strap to the bottom (up about 7")and clamp it for the next raising. Repeat until done. So you raise in 5' increments and the speed depends on your guy control.
Also, the standoffs remain in the loose position with this procedure-until finished.

Also. to another comment-about EMT. There are many ways to reach you goal. I've chosen one that is practical, inexpensive, well designed, easily transportable, requires only a minimum of manpower and will hold up very well when installed properly. EMT wasn't designed to be a mast material, but with this system (coupler to stiffen every 4'-3"), it's plenty rugged and stiff enough to hold a hex and rotator at a 40' height with proper guying. This would be especially true for temporary use at a Field Day or portable situation. The pieces fit well together and it's easy raising and lowering, if necessary. It's a compromise-you make the choice.

 
RE: KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher  
by KM1H on November 12, 2015 Mail this to a friend!
Interesting idea but a bit scary for long term survival plus takes a 2-3 man crew to service.

Short of installing a surplus (free) utility pole as the base I dont envision a safe and low cost solution at those heights in the majority of weather conditions around the country.

The following is a suggestion: And then using sections of HD galvanized end swaged TV/CB masting (stronger than box store and Radio Shack quality) for 6" or so loosely clamped to the pole, mount the beam, hex or whatever and then pushing up to 30-50'by adding more tubing at the bottom. Larger and heavier wall aluminum tubing can also be used which can be purchased with an end swaged for building big long boom yagis....all that takes is more money. Heavy duty fence pipe is also available at real fence companies that can be pre swaged and is heavier but costs less plus it is a local purchase. Ive had 20' of Wheatland brand up as a mast for about 20 years on 60' of Rohn 25 that has had several fairly large antennas on it on this exposed NH hilltop. Currently has a HB 3 el 20 on a 21' boom, a pair of 30' long booms on 432 and a HB 8 el 6 on a 35' boom.

With some creativity a hex at the top with long booms for 6, 2, and higher bands below to clear the top guys and the rotator on a shelf to the pole above the snow line looks doable. A pair of rotating guy rings also. Add a pillow block or similar 1-2 spots on the pole for added stability especially when having to remove the rotator. Certainly not for portable but a permanent home install that adds relatively easy antenna and rotator maintenence to the mix. Likely gets around tower restrictions in some areas.

I also notice that YOU are Bend Gard so this is also a for profit commercial post.

Carl
 
KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher  
by N5VR on November 13, 2015 Mail this to a friend!
Nice article. As an additional thought why not use a thrust bearing on a shelf at the top and have the rotor at the bottom. I did something similar but used a push up mast. I am not sure the couplings would fit through the bearing but I prefer the rotor at the bottom and it works well.
 
KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher  
by VK5GI on November 14, 2015 Mail this to a friend!
A lot of thought gone into that - congratulations, and good work!
Norm
McLaren South Australia
 
RE: KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher  
by KE1Q on November 20, 2015 Mail this to a friend!

eHam has been nice enough to publish two articles for me dealing with DIY projects and I am very grateful.

First one is dated January 20, 2015, entitled 'DIY Push-Up Antenna Mast'. It now appears in the 'How To' category.
Second one is dated November 10, 2015, entitled 'KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher' and now appears in this Current Articles category. This is also a 'How To' category article.

Both articles can be completely DIY including the Couplers that I also make available from my website, ie., you don't need me at all to complete either project. You can be the judge if this is a 'for profit' commercial post.

My original goal was to develop a better alternative to the common telescopic mast which I believe to be very flimsy at the top, hard to extend with a load on it plus several other negatives. Later I needed a practical and portable mast launcher to use for Field Day, portable or fixed use. I believe I've accomplished both goals in a practical and cost effective way in these DIY articles.

The biggest negative I got is in the use of EMT. It's fair to point out that it was not developed as an antenna mast material. And certainly there are other choices...and they tend to be pricey, or flimsy, some very heavy, and many require a lot of extra manpower to install them. Mine is a practical compromise-you weigh the pluses and minuses. When used as described in my articles, you can expect good dependable service for many years from both DIY projects. For Field Day, this Mast Launcher setup has to be one of the better ones out there that is capable of raising a small beam/rotator to 40 feet using only 2 people.

I hope I've added a little bit to our hobby. I hope most of you will agree.

 
KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher  
by JOHNZ on November 21, 2015 Mail this to a friend!
An excellent alternative to the very heavy (close to 350 Lbs) AB-577.

Our club has fielded both the AB-577 and Craig's version of a lighter weight mast/launcher. I prefer KE1Q's lighter version, for field use. I was able to quickly load the entire set into my truck in minutes, whereas loading the AB-577 is an arduous job.

I note the guy who built our lighter version used a two-way strap winch rated at 1800# from American Power Pull, versus the one-way winch rated at 1500#, not that there is any huge difference.

An excellent tech article, well-written and well-documented.
 
KE1Q's 'Winch-It-Up' Universal Mast Launcher  
by K1HC on December 20, 2015 Mail this to a friend!
Great article, Craig! It will really give many EHam readers some "food for thought" on how to get antennas up in the air without a huge tower at much greater cost.
 
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