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[WA4JQS]

I have three amps  2kd5, l4b and tl-922a. that I want to add in rush protection too. just wonder if the one dx eng.  sells by ameritron is worth the money or should I go ahead and get the kits from Ohio and install. was thing the ready made would save me a lot of down time. 
thank
73 Tony

[K8AXW]

Tony:  You're the only one who can really answer those questions.

It depends on how important your "down time is."
It depends on your electronic abilities.
It depends on if the amount of difficulty with installation and how you can deal with it.

I have gone both ways on this type of question.  Sometimes I simply don't want to spend the time and suffer the headache so I just buy and install.

In other cases I prefer to save the money and spend the time to fabricate either from a diagram or a kit. 

This really is the bottom line.

[N3QE]

I have three amps  2kd5, l4b and tl-922a. that I want to add in rush protection too. just wonder if the one dx eng.  sells by ameritron is worth the money or should I go ahead and get the kits from Ohio and install. was thing the ready made would save me a lot of down time. 
thank
73 Tony

The only amp component whose life will be extended by step-start, is the power switch. Which usually retails for a tiny fraction of the cost of the step-start unit.

[WA4JQS]

Thanks for the replys folks i have a background in electronics.. and can install the mods with no problems just thinking if i install one in each amp. i can move them between stations. or i can go with the inline units and have inrush for anything i go with later.
guess it is 6 of one and half dozen of the other. i am going to put cl-200 on the line inputs of all the amps. the kits costs less then the in line unit by about 15 bucks. but then i would have the down time.  the rigs i use are the 950sd 850sat and 870sat so do not need soft key.. but the transformer thump when powered up does not sound good.

73 Tony WA4JQS

[KM4AH]

I have had a couple of those Ameritron in line step starts and they work pretty well. But, they are not particularly long lived before the relay becomes intermittent. I'm not talking about a few weeks , but it is not something you can expect to work problem free for years, mine didn't anyway.

[W1BR]

 The only amp component whose life will be extended by step-start, is the power switch. Which usually retails for a tiny fraction of the cost of the step-start unit.

Which just might worth it for the SB-220 series of amps; the power switch is un-obtantium.
Even though the filament transformer controls the surge current on the filaments.

Pete

[WA7PRC]

If you use a high value of C in the HV filter, a step-start circuit may be of benefit to prolong the life of the ON/OFF switch. If the switch dies or you want to extend its life w/o opening the amplifier, you can install a switch inside an external box. The parts are as close as your home improvement box store.

Bryan WA7PRC

[WA4JQS]

well did not think of that guess i could use that NIB 6 gang ckt breaker box i have in the shop and some 20 amp duel ganged ckt breakers with some CL-200's in the amps  and leave the amp switches in the on position all the time.
or just wire the amps direct to the breaker box in the shack..
73 Tony

[KM4AH]

I have been turning my home brew off an on with the breaker in the panel for a couple of years. Guys have told me that it would not hold up as a switch, but so far it has caused no problems. And, it is by far easier to replace than the breaker in the power supply or the low voltage control switch in the RF deck. I could have it replaced before I could even get to the switch or breaker in either part of the amp.

[WA7PRC]

Not all circuit breakers are suitable for use as ON/OFF switches. OTOH, a DPST toggle switch is available for minimal cost at the box store (link). For $5.99, you get a name-brand switch that's rated 20A @ 277V. Add a box and a couple of pigtails, and yer in bizzness.

vy 73,
Bryan WA7PRC

[N8FVJ]

How about using a thermistor? Does not limit current as long as a step-start relay though.

[WA4JQS]

two cl-200 thermistors in series across the line will limit it somewhat
73 Tony

[WA7PRC]

two cl-200 thermistors in series across the line will limit it somewhat

Current-limiting devices (thermistors) are used in series with the load, not in shunt with the load.
$2.13 each from Mouser (pn 527-CL-200A). Add shipping (least costly method), and you're at $9.25, and have to wait for it.

OTOH, a $5.99 DPST switch in a box (about a buck + clamps) in series in the line cord would run about the same cost but, you'd have it today.

[WA4JQS]

PRC is correct they go in series not shunt..i had to order some more RF Beads so restocked my supply of cl -200 also.  when i build my shack i installed 220 outlets in the walls along with the 110 units.. yes put in RED outlets and cover plates for my old age.. hihi.. i have room beside each amp to put a box with a breaker and outlet for each amp.. at least this way ill save the switches in the L4B , 2KD5 and 922A maybe.. seems like there was a drawing floating around of a box with an outlet and bucking transformer for just that purpose a few years back.
hope everyone had a great weekend
 73 Tony

[WA7PRC]

when i build my shack i installed 220 outlets in the walls along with the 110 units.. yes put in RED outlets and cover plates for my old age.. hihi.. i have room beside each amp to put a box with a breaker and outlet for each amp.. at least this way ill save the switches in the L4B , 2KD5 and 922A maybe.. seems like there was a drawing floating around of a box with an outlet and bucking transformer for just that purpose a few years back.
hope everyone had a great weekend
 73 Tony

I simply used NEMA 5 outlets for the 120V circuits and a NEMA 6 outlet for the 240V circuit: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector.  No special color coding is required; 120V plugs/outlets and 240V plugs/outlets physically won't interface.

Bryan WA7PRC