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Author Topic: Go Box Power Management Question  (Read 341 times)

N4SRN

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Go Box Power Management Question
« on: September 12, 2020, 05:38:20 AM »

I’m assembling a Go Box and haven’t figured out the AC/DC charging/discharge yet. I have a 12V/30Ahr LFP battery and 14V/30A PSU input to a PWRguardPlus that will output defaulted from the PSU input when active or the battery when not active. That output runs to a fused powerpole distribution box to connect radio, tuner and other peripherals.

I plan to add cables from the battery terminals to a powerpole port on the rolling Pelican case to plug in the 6A Bioenno LFP charger. Do I need to disconnect the battery output when charging? If so, I can just pull the powerpole cable to the PWRgaurdPlus. There are times, when I have AC available, that I might run off the PSU while charging the battery.

My Go Box, under construction, will have an ICOM IC-7100, LDG IT-100 ATU, with waterproof bulkhead passthroughs for all cables. I’m still searching a fan and watertight cover to add so I can run it closed and use the case as a desktop for the radio head unit, laptop, etc. With a collapsible SOTAbeams 7000hds 23ft mast and some 20/30/40/80 dipoles, 20m/70cm whip on a tripod and ferrite to tame RFI, I have great expectations.

Bret/N4SRN
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Bret/N4SRN
Bedford, NH  USA

K6AER

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Re: Go Box Power Management Question
« Reply #1 on: September 12, 2020, 10:38:11 AM »

Not having experience with your power pole unit, take a volt meter and measure if the output is diode isolated. That will let you know what to do.

Get your Amateur Extra License. During large area emergencies where HF would be used the General portion of the band will be useless. It was during the Mount St. Helens event.

I gather you will be using a generator. Check your unit out for RFI. Also gas will be scarce. Plan on Solar. At least 200 watts. Use a MPPT charger on the panels. Panel will run about $90 per 100 watts. MPPT charge controller, 40A will run less than $100. Also plan for a spares kit. Parts in an emergency will not be available. Having mentioned batteries, plan of 200 AH to get you through the night, 100 anp.lithium battery will run you about $950 ea.

In an emergency the cell network might not be 100%. I would get a booster amp and a 6 element yagi for the 800 MHz cell band.

Make sure you can lift your go box and it can be located 200 yards from the vehicle.

Instead of a go box I use bags, Radio, Mic and power cord in bag !. Antenna tuner, 9:1 unin and antenna wire, coax, PS cord in bag 2, Solar charge controller and DVM, long power cords in bag 3. Tools and spare parts (fuses) (connectors) bag 4. Each solar panel has its own tilt lever and carry handle.

Also plan on being with out support for one week. Everything you need (food, shelter, TP and soap) you will need to bring yourself. Milk creates are great to carry all your stuff, When not in use they make stools and table legs.


Have Fun.

Mike - K6AER NM
« Last Edit: September 12, 2020, 10:55:32 AM by K6AER »
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N4SRN

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Re: Go Box Power Management Question
« Reply #2 on: September 12, 2020, 02:48:49 PM »

Thanks for the words of wisdom Mike, I’ll check it out with my VOM once assembled.

I’m not a Doomsday Prepper by any means, but look to be food, water, power, heat, communications, security independent for 1-3mo if a moderate disaster hit. Preparedness is a multifaceted “hobby” for sure! Some of us take it seriously in NH.

Solar is on my list. I have enough to charge batteries for light and run AM/FM radio but 200W of folding panels looks useful in my Go-Box Pelican 1650 box. It rolls and fits the back of my SUV - and yes, being able to lift it is important! Back when air travel was common (like 6mo ago) I always marveled at folks who’s carry-on baggage outweighed them!

Bioenno has chainable 100W units and decent controllers I can add later this year.

If needed, a lighter KDW TM-710G Go-Box can connect me via Winlink 2m 1200 Packet to my local ARES. And my Elecraft KX2 is a HF walkie-talkie on 20m with a whip, albeit quite limited. But local is the key if one has community ties for such exigencies.
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Bret/N4SRN
Bedford, NH  USA

K6AER

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Re: Go Box Power Management Question
« Reply #3 on: September 12, 2020, 08:20:50 PM »

I have had my license for over 61 years and growing up in southern California we had our yearly disasters (fires). I was DCS 1 for the LA County Sheriff for a few years and you learn quickly t plan for the unexpected.

I am 71 now and even in staying in good shape running a horse ranch here in NM I more prone to make more trips and carry less weight.

Also remember not all batteries can be discharged completely. Wet cells about 40% and AGM's about 30% minimum. LiPo's can be taken to 100% discharge.
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AK4YH

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Re: Go Box Power Management Question
« Reply #4 on: October 14, 2020, 07:54:38 AM »

The first parameter to consider for a Go-box is the receive current draw of the transceivers. Everything else should derive from that. current draw should be kept to a minimum. The bigger the current the heavier the battery. If you ever have to  carry your Go-box on foot, this becomes painfully evident. My HF radio is powered by three 18650 cells... It is better to consider the power source and weight first then build around that, not the other way around...
Going with a manual tuner would be a good first step, unless the auto tuner uses latching relays. Actually, not using a tuner would be even better. Resonant antennas work wonders. Get rid of the "other peripherals."
Just my $0.02...

Gil.
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W1MOW

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Re: Go Box Power Management Question
« Reply #5 on: October 15, 2020, 08:46:45 AM »

I know I am going to get flamed for this...Replace all powerpoles inside your case with solder/crimped connectors. Powerpole on the outside for power connections are fine, (I also have terminals as a backup.) powerpoles can vibrate and cause problems inside with intermittent connections.

We tried them in EMS vehicles when they 1st came out and were soon replaced. Also were tried in a large STEM robotics program, and drove the field people crazy. All because of transportation vibration. It was also found during the program that  a lot of people were not assembling correctly.

Yes...They do have there place, and work most of the time, but i the case of emergency you want to eliminate as many points of failure as you can.

Tonight there is a is a zoom presentation on Go-Boxes by New Hampshire ARES, here is the a link for more info:  https://hamxposition.org/2020/ne-ares-academy

Gary W1MOW
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The fundamental cause of the trouble is that in the modern world the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt - Bertram Russell (1935)

So not much has changed in almost 90 years!

N2AYM

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Re: Go Box Power Management Question
« Reply #6 on: October 21, 2020, 05:49:35 AM »

Hi Bret - I agree with Gary about the power pole connection block. I have checked
them and used them for years and they have  connecting problems. Even if they
are properly mated they often drop about 1~2 volts and eventually wiggle loose.
Also it is best in a mobile operation to keep it simple - Loose the power gate and use
these. I have been using these for years and are bullet proof and robustly built. Using
one of these converter/chargers connected to your battery is all you need and no
power gates needed since your always on battery with no need to switch. I like the
DLSX 30A.

https://www.iotaengineering.com/products/dls-power-converters-battery-chargers#t=ablProducts&sort=relevancy&layout=card&numberOfResults=50
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