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Author Topic: Go Box Recommendations  (Read 502 times)

N8EUI

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Go Box Recommendations
« on: October 29, 2020, 10:56:09 AM »

As a winter project, I'm plan to build a go box. My portable equipment layout, including the stacking thereof, requires a minimum interior size of 19 inches wide, 14 inches deep and 8 inches tall. Can anyone recommend a sturdy, reputable case to meet my dimensional needs?

Thanks
Tom, N8EUI
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W9FIB

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Re: Go Box Recommendations
« Reply #2 on: October 30, 2020, 02:12:38 AM »

For a portable plug in and go set up I use old road cases with the 19" rack built in. Have built several over the years. Set the case on a table, remove the front cover, remove the rear cover, plug it in, hook up the antennas, and your all set up. Weight is an issue if you use ginormous batteries installed in the case. Also inside the rear cover there is usually plenty of room to store the loose items like mics, key, and other useful station items.

With this set up, if the antennas are set up (now the hardest part), takes 10 minutes or less to get on the air.

One system I built had everything except the batteries built in 1 case, and a separate battery case with power pole cord to just plug it together. That way if you had power available, you wouldn't need to haul the batteries to the set up.

This would be a dedicated approach that everything is basically pre-wired and solidly mounted. Just thought I would share as an example.
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73, Stan
Travelling the world one signal at a time.

N8EUI

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Re: Go Box Recommendations
« Reply #3 on: November 03, 2020, 04:11:50 PM »

Thank you for the suggestions. I like W9FIB's go box idea. My plan is to have it set up for AC power. I can always build a case for a separate battery if necessary.

N8EUI
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W1MOW

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Re: Go Box Recommendations
« Reply #4 on: November 04, 2020, 06:17:24 AM »

I also highly recommend "Gator" cases. I have made my own using hardware from many sources, Parts Express was one. The only problem with the home made was weight. It weighed about 5 pounds more than a Gator case.(Empty) Although using the end covers was great for misc items.

Just a point to consider...Stay away from powerpoles inside your case. Use standard fork & ring connectors, crimped and soldered, with good quality terminal strips. Use powerpoles to supply power, along with binding posts to your box. You can always make up cables with powerpoles for specific needs. You don't want to spend time looking for an intermittent connections due to transport and vibrations.

One last thing, make sure all fuses are easy to replace & accessible.

Gary W1MOW
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The fundamental cause of the trouble is that in the modern world the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt - Bertram Russell (1935)

So not much has changed in almost 90 years!

W9FIB

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Re: Go Box Recommendations
« Reply #5 on: November 04, 2020, 09:28:21 PM »

I also highly recommend "Gator" cases. I have made my own using hardware from many sources, Parts Express was one. The only problem with the home made was weight. It weighed about 5 pounds more than a Gator case.(Empty) Although using the end covers was great for misc items.

Just a point to consider...Stay away from powerpoles inside your case. Use standard fork & ring connectors, crimped and soldered, with good quality terminal strips. Use powerpoles to supply power, along with binding posts to your box. You can always make up cables with powerpoles for specific needs. You don't want to spend time looking for an intermittent connections due to transport and vibrations.

One last thing, make sure all fuses are easy to replace & accessible.

Gary W1MOW

Good points Gary. I always use a fuse block with several fuse positions completely visible when the back cover of the case is removed. I keep at least 2 replacement fuses for each fuse used next to the fuse block.

Yep...power poles just for power. All else inside is hard wired with as few connections as possible. The idea is to make as few connections that may loosen and fail. Fast on's loosen over time. Use ring connectors and screw terminals. Scotch lock wire splices just build in failure. Avoid them as much as possible.
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73, Stan
Travelling the world one signal at a time.

N9LCD

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Re: Go Box Recommendations
« Reply #6 on: November 08, 2020, 09:07:58 AM »

Quote
You can always make up cables with powerpoles for specific needs.

I'm not a fan of PowerPoles.  I had the PowerPole adapter for an FT-817nd.  Yeah, the rig's power input needs protection BUT:

The PowerPole "spade" terminals kept coming loose from the rig's OEM power input cable.

The spade terminal kept coming loose from the actual adapter.  I couldn't shift the rig or the power cable without having to reinsert the "spade" terminals into the adapter.
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W9IQ

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Re: Go Box Recommendations
« Reply #7 on: November 08, 2020, 09:23:29 AM »

That sounds like a defective or poorly assembled PowerPole connector.

For mobile and portable operation, the two connectors can be locked together with a removable bail wire. The better PowerPole distribution boxes include this in their design.

- Glenn W9IQ
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- Glenn W9IQ

God runs electromagnetics on Monday, Wednesday and Friday by the wave theory and the devil runs it on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday by the Quantum theory.

KA2ODP

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Re: Go Box Recommendations
« Reply #8 on: November 24, 2020, 12:05:59 PM »

If you go with a "Gator" case consider installing a large piece of sheet metal inside the back lid.  Since you usually remove the front and back lids for operation & ventilation, you can use the sheet metal inside the back lid to stick a dual-band magnetic-mount antenna to it.  That way the back lid serves a second purpose once removed from the Gator case.  You may also have separate external antennas & coax that will work even better.  But having the ability to use the back lid with a mag-mount antenna will get you on the air ASAP, and when you have the time go back and set up the better external antenna & coax that reaches outside the building.
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W1MOW

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Re: Go Box Recommendations
« Reply #9 on: November 25, 2020, 11:53:00 AM »

If you go with a "Gator" case consider installing a large piece of sheet metal inside the back lid.  Since you usually remove the front and back lids for operation & ventilation, you can use the sheet metal inside the back lid to stick a dual-band magnetic-mount antenna to it.  That way the back lid serves a second purpose once removed from the Gator case.  You may also have separate external antennas & coax that will work even better.  But having the ability to use the back lid with a mag-mount antenna will get you on the air ASAP, and when you have the time go back and set up the better external antenna & coax that reaches outside the building.

That is a great idea. Will modify my Gator case this winter.

Thanks for the idea.

Gary W1MOW
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The fundamental cause of the trouble is that in the modern world the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt - Bertram Russell (1935)

So not much has changed in almost 90 years!

KA2ODP

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Re: Go Box Recommendations
« Reply #10 on: November 27, 2020, 01:26:27 PM »

Glad you like the idea.  I'm certain many folks have attached zippered bags or Tupperware containers inside the front lid to hold microphones, cables, pens, paper, and notepaper.  But that still leaves the back lid, leaning against the wall with no purpose once it has been removed for operation.  I know they make nice drawer units for the Gator cases, but I find they take up valuable rack space that I would rather use for radio equipment.  It is always a fine balancing act to equip your Gator case with everything you need, yet still be able to carry it a distance without hurting your back.  A hand cart can be helpful, but Murphy's Law states that the EOC will always be in the basement or top floor of a building, accessible only by steep stairs.  They are never on the ground floor, as that would be too easy to access.
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