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Author Topic: $30 straight key or $200 filtered keyer?  (Read 549 times)

AD6AD

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$30 straight key or $200 filtered keyer?
« on: November 08, 2020, 11:04:33 AM »

Not a newbie, but new to CW:
QUESTION -
Getting into CW:
Can I get away with a $30 straight key,
or do I need a fancy keyer?    ($100+)

I've read that the simple key causes splatter, harmonics, and static.
Listening on the bands, it all sounds the same to me.
Or is it simply that everyone uses filters now?

RELATED QUESTION:
The paddle type keyer: Does it automatically set the length of time for the dots and
dashes, or are they simply two straight keys side-by-side?
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WA6BJH

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Re: $30 straight key or $200 filtered keyer?
« Reply #1 on: November 08, 2020, 11:22:35 AM »

Well, I suppose we need to start by finding out what transceiver you have.  All modern transceivers have a built-in electronic keyer and you can set them up to use a straight key or a paddle.   A paddle is simply two straight keys side-by-side and when you push it one way you get continuous correctly formed dots, and the same for dashes when you push it the other way.  Once you get the hang of it, the keyer and paddle is the best way.

A straight key is not likely to cause splatter, harmonics, or static just by itself.  Those things would likely be a function of the transmitter.  That’s not going to be a problem with any modern transceiver regardless of whether you use a straight key, the built-in keyer with a paddle, or a bug.

If you’re going to start off sending CW at a slow speed, a straight key is a good way to start.  When you get tired of pounding brass you can easily graduate to a keyer and a paddle. 

I don’t know what a paddle would cost, but you can probably find a good one for not much money, assuming you have a modern transceiver with a built-in keyer.
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W6MK

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Re: $30 straight key or $200 filtered keyer?
« Reply #2 on: November 08, 2020, 11:44:10 AM »

The paddle type keyer: Does it automatically set the length of time for the dots and
dashes, or are they simply two straight keys side-by-side?

Some basic definitions may help you:

A straight key (usually a single lever which moves up and down) is a key; a paddle (one or two levers moving from side to side) is also a key.

A paddle is commonly used to key (turn on and off) an electronic device called a "keyer" which, usually, produces dits and dahs automatically and weights (length of dit or dah) and spaces them appropriately for the speed at which the keyer is set.

Old, tube-type transmitters, in which a key would be turning on and off a significant amount of energy (voltage/current) often could produce noisy signals (key clicks, etc.). Such problems don't usually exist for contemporary transceivers whose keyed circuits involve very low energy levels.

A keying problem which CAN exist in contemporary solid-state transceivers is distortion of a keyed signal due to contact bounce in manual keys (straight keys, bugs, etc.). This is seldom a problem because of the near-universal use of built-in electronic keyers which do not respond to contact bounce in manual keys. Some contemporary solid-state transceivers, however, which, when keyed with a manual key, do exhibit problems with contact bounce. For these transceivers a simple debounce circuit can be used between the key and the key input in the transceiver.

Paddles, mechanical keys which are designed for use with electronic keyers, come in a couple of varieties: single levers and double levers. Both can be used similarly by pushing in one direction or the other to produce either dits or dahs. Single lever paddles can only be used in this way. Double lever paddles can be used alternatively by squeezing both levers simultaneously. The results of this squeezing depend on the type of keyer setup, for example, either iambic a or iambic b. Many keyer circuits allow selection of more than one type of keying.
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AD6AD

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Re: $30 straight key or $200 filtered keyer?
« Reply #3 on: November 08, 2020, 01:10:08 PM »

GREAT responses. Thanks guys.
I appreciate the professional and detailed reports.
I have an old IC-718, so I'll look at the manual to see if debounce is functional.
Good explanations.
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W6MK

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Re: $30 straight key or $200 filtered keyer?
« Reply #4 on: November 08, 2020, 01:23:54 PM »

I'll look at the manual to see if debounce is functional.

Don't worry about it. If a problem crops up, then you can think about solving it.
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KD4ZFS

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Re: $30 straight key or $200 filtered keyer?
« Reply #5 on: November 09, 2020, 09:59:59 PM »

Hello and welcome to CW!

With the 718, don't worry about it!  I have one of those rigs.  I have watched my signal on remote websdr and there is no splatter.  Splatter comes from the shape of the key on and key off of the transmitter.  Most modern rigs to a good job of smoothing that out.

Scratchy contacts do happen with bug keys that are not set up well.  That is a whole other conversation, and not something for you to worry about yet.

Your 718 has many modes on its CW key input, including Straight key, and Electronic Keyer.  You will have to cycle the power on and off several times to set this mode correctly.  Read the manual.  There are many, many settings!  I have a post on that other ham forum about how to set this up. Google it if you wish.

The REAL question for you is: What kind of key would YOU like to use? :-)

I have 4 different types of keys set up on my radio right now, so there is no single right answer.  I enjoy switching back and forth.  It is personal preference!

You can do quite well by setting up for a straight key and learning with that.  If you have musical ability, you will do well with the straight key.  When you get better, you may want to learn with Iambic paddles.

Enjoy your journey!

73!
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K5LXP

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Re: $30 straight key or $200 filtered keyer?
« Reply #6 on: November 10, 2020, 10:49:54 AM »

From a preference perspective I don't see why you can't have both.  Frankly I think straight keys are hopeless, something you use only because you have to or don't care about being uncomfortable while you operate stuck at low speeds.  But they're fun to own and sometimes even use (SKN, SKCC, etc).  At the end of the day your proficiency nor your level of enjoyment will be measured by the kind of key or paddle you use.  Buy some cool keys and paddles.  Lots of them.  Then have fun.

Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM
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K0UA

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Re: $30 straight key or $200 filtered keyer?
« Reply #7 on: November 14, 2020, 06:44:29 AM »

These are not bad for being a 3D printed key. I have both straight key and paddles from them.  They have real bearing in them even though everything else is printed plastic.

https://cwmorse.us/
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73  James K0UA

WB6BYU

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Re: $30 straight key or $200 filtered keyer?
« Reply #8 on: November 14, 2020, 07:39:19 PM »

I have both straight keys and paddles.

If I only had one, it would probably be a straight key,
as that can work with any rig, and I got comfortable
using it long before I got a set of paddles (which was
long before keyers were built into most rigs).

I’m comfortable up to about 20 WPM on a well-adjusted
straight key.  (I was officially clocked at 22.5 at the
Tokyo Hamfair, but my accuracy gets worse above that.)

Yes, I can send faster with paddles and a keyer, but at
the moment I only copy around 25 WPM by ear, so
there isn’t much sense in going faster, at least for
casual QSOs.

I also find that I don’t like using paddles at lower speeds,
below 13-15 WPM or so, as somehow it just doesn’t feel
right to my fingers...

VK5ISO

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Re: $30 straight key or $200 filtered keyer?
« Reply #9 on: November 14, 2020, 09:51:07 PM »

I think you got some good answers to your question.

Re. straight keys, much depends on the shape (i.e flatness) and cleanliness (i.e. are they corroded?) of your contacts . A good debouncing circuit takes care of most problems well.

However, the fundamental question is really: just how serious are you about CW?

If you are just trying it out to have some fun and don't want to break the bank, by all means get a straight key: they are tons of fun and cheap.

If, however, you plan on relying on CW in the long run, I would suggest getting a paddle from the beginning ( a Begali Simplex Basic will set you back around $100 and last perhaps the rest of your life).

You can grow with a paddle and reach speeds of 25 or 30 wpm in a couple years whereas  with a straight key, it  will be  very difficult to progress above 20 wpm (and it's tiring!)

Add to that the fact that there is a very active second-hand market for Begali paddles and that selling a straight key will always be a challenge (I know, I had an N3ZN-HKII on the market in Australia. . . impossible to sell!) and  I think that getting a good paddle is a no-brainer.

You can resell it for close to  what you paid for it if you take good care of it.

Just for the record, I personally use both paddles and straight keys and far  prefer  straight keys as I find them  more involving and enjoyable, but one does have  to be realistic.
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AD6AD

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Re: $30 straight key or $200 filtered keyer?
« Reply #10 on: November 16, 2020, 07:09:01 AM »

These are not bad for being a 3D printed key. I have both straight key and paddles from them.  They have real bearing in them even though everything else is printed plastic.

https://cwmorse.us/

Yeah, reviewed on YouTube by Dave Castle, or at least the ones sold now on Etsy. Good price too.
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AD6AD

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Re: $30 straight key or $200 filtered keyer?
« Reply #11 on: November 16, 2020, 07:10:48 AM »

Hello and welcome to CW!

The REAL question for you is: What kind of key would YOU like to use? :-)

Enjoy your journey!

73!

Kind words and good advice: BIG thanks!
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