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[KN6PAA]

All, Yes I am a newbee, I am attempting to install a mobile Kenwood in my 2106 Ford F-350.
Any advice on getting the power harness from the battery to the cab without using a 1" hole saw I would certainly appreciate. Thanks..KN6PAA

[W9IQ]

Welcome to the hobby!

Before you start, be aware that you should not connect the negative lead of your radio directly to the battery. Most modern vehicles use a 'coulomb counter' or equivalent to manage the battery charging in an effort to improve fuel efficiency. If you connect directly to the battery negative terminal as used to be recommended, you are bypassing this sensor and the battery may not charge properly. Instead, the negative lead should be bonded to the frame/grounded body of the truck using star washers and an anti-oxidant compound.

Unlike older vehicles, most modern truck designs anticipate that the owner will load them with in-cab electronics. You may find that there is an adequate power source for a radio in the truck if you are talking about a radio not greater than 50 watts of output. My last couple of truck installs (F550 and Chevy 1500) have been successful this way.

I generally have found that there are holes through the firewall that have somewhat hard plastic plugs installed so if you need to run a harness, you may find some of these. They are painted over so you may need to scout carefully. I haven't done an F350 install so I cannot offer specific advice for your model.

Good luck with the project.

- Glenn W9IQ

[WA9AFM]

Instead of cutting holes in the firewall, look for openings via the front fenders.  Open the hood and driver's (or passenger's) door and look for light shining through.  There is typically plenty of space to snake power and coax cables from the engine compartment to the interior cabin.

I've used this method on several different vehicles and it works fine.

[K0UA]

And if all else fails, around the steering shaft is a large rubber boot. Usually this rubber boot is many times larger than the steering shaft from the steering wheel that passes thru it. You can usually make an additional hole with an ice pick and run your wires thru this hole. It will be automatically grommeted and sealed from water and if done carefully it will be at least an inch or more from the steering shaft. I have done this many times without incident. All of the above written by others still applies, there is often an easier way from the engine bay to the interior. Don't get out the hole saw. Examine the auto carefully in good lighting and you will likely find a way.

[W9FIB]

And if all else fails, around the steering shaft is a large rubber boot. Usually this rubber boot is many times larger than the steering shaft from the steering wheel that passes thru it. You can usually make an additional hole with an ice pick and run your wires thru this hole. It will be automatically grommeted and sealed from water and if done carefully it will be at least an inch or more from the steering shaft. I have done this many times without incident. All of the above written by others still applies, there is often an easier way from the engine bay to the interior. Don't get out the hole saw. Examine the auto carefully in good lighting and you will likely find a way.

James is correct. In the many mobile installs I have done in many makes and models of cars and trucks, I have never needed to drill a new hole.

Also you may want to get your power from the AUX power stud located at or near the under the hood fuse panel. There is often a body bolt that can be used as a ground connection in the same area. Make sure both are clean when you make the hook up.

[WB6TIX]

On my 2016 F350, I found a large grommet under the driver side of the dash....just to the left of where the brake pedal assembly attaches to the firewall and I used that as the wire entry point into the cab of the truck.

It's easy to find as there are a large number of wires going through the grommet and the insulation has an opening to accommodate the grommet.

I used a small, but long, phillip head screw driver to make the hole near the edge of the grommet.  The grommet is easy to see on the passenger side of the firewall, but kind of hidden on the engine side.  I used a red piece of #14 sold wire (like used in homes) and pushed that through the hole from the passenger side so that I could locate "my target". 

To seal the new hole in the grommet, I put some RTV adhesive (not gasket maker) around my wire on both sides of the gasket.   So far, it has not leaked at all.

I have some pictures of the power leads going through the firewall, as well as how I mounted the radio control head and also where I placed the radio's main body.  If you would like to give me your email address, I could send them to you.

Eric