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[KD4DRN]

I am in the process of installing a mobile into my small truck. The truck is a 2016 Nissan Frontier four door
Four-wheel drive. I need to pass one or two coax lines through the rear wall of the cab. Would someone care to share thier experience?
I have a few thoughts but am not really happy with any of them. My biggest concern is having the cable
in a tight space going through a bulkhead with little protection. I would use a gromet or strain relief, but I want to avoid the accidental sthrp bend.
Ideas and suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks,
Jesse KD4DRN

[WA9AFM]

I've used that technique on several vehicles without a problem.  You might consider wrapping a medium to heavy tape around the portion of the coax that will be in the auto body spaces.

[WA2ONH]

Jesse ...

Do you have a Bookmark for this site about mobile operations ...
http://www.k0bg.com/

This site is dedicated to mobile amateur radio operators, old and new alike. Whether you're into HF, or VHF operation, I trust the information presented will increase your enjoyment of our great hobby.

With safety as a byword, there are articles on amplifiers, antennas, bonding, impedance matching, installing hardware, mobile equipment, noise and RFI abatement, wiring, and much more. I do my best to keep these articles up to date, and easy to follow. Any changes are reflected in the date at the beginning of each article.

Good luck with your project.
.

[WV4L]

Are there any grommets already installed on the back of the cab or the back floor of the cab? Check under the interior door step plates there maybe access there. I once ran coax through what I guess was a air vent on the back of the cab that had a rubber flap in it. Look for those kind of access points. There is probably something there somewhere.

Good luck on you install.

73!
Wayne C.
WV4L

[WA8NVW]

If you have the route identified and have NOT put the PKL259's on both ends of the coax, cut about a 12" length of garden hose and push that through the grommet.  Then push the coax through and add the last PL259 plug.  Thick-wall hose protects the cable from both sharp bends and sharp edges.  I recommend this technique also for large power leads into the engine compartment.

[K0UA]

I use this split loom tubing available at Lowes, Home Depot, and many other places. It is tough, easy to install and comes in many sizes and it is black. It can also be stripped off and removed in place to be replaced if need be.  It is the same stuff your electrical wiring on your automobile is protected with under the hood.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Bender-10-ft-Plastic-Cord-Organizer/999953798?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-elc-_-ggl-_-LIA_ELC_106_Tools-Wire-Connectors-_-999953798-_-local-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmPSSBhCNARIsAH3cYgZId8EtaD3CHiY6KseWOqDfV5EufMQgoJinVfUV6SaIXix6cLuFb14aArr0EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

[KD4DRN]

thanks for all the help.

[WA3SKN]

Nobody's heard of silicone bathtub caulk?
You put the wire through the grommet and the add a dab of caulk... maybe on both sides!
Great stress relief AND is fairly easy to remove too!

-Mike.

[KU3X]

In my older cars, there was a big grommet where the parking brake cable went through the fire wall. I'd put a slit in it and pass my power cable through it. The same could be done with RG 8X coax. Today, I look for a spot on both sides of the firewall to see where I can go thought. Then I just get out the cordless drill motor and drill a hole in the firewall. Add a grommet, pass the cable through it and then use some duct seal on the engine side of the fire wall. The RF connectors go on after the pass through.
I've been doing this for over 43 years and have never had an issue yet.
Want a smaller hole? Use RG 316 instead of the heavier coax. RG 316 can easily handle 100 watts on HF. The MNO mount I use for UHF/VHF came with RG 316 already attached to it.