BTW, as a quick follow-up...
1) The TR-7 works perfectly fine "as-is" / "as designed" and needs no modifications to work well for you...
But, there are a few minor mods that can make the TR-7 more convenient to operate, in comparison to our modern rigs 45 to 50 years newer.
BUT...
But, some have taken to the soldering iron in the misguided quest to "make it better"....
There some bizarre / poorly-engineered "modifications" for the TR-7 out there....use caution! (see below for just a few of these)
2) The only major mod that I know for sure is a good update / mod, is from Ulrich Rohde (and not just specific to the TR-7, but for many "legacy synth" radios) where he changes out the main VCO's thereby updating the radio to modern year 2020 "phase noise" and RMDR...
A second mod that is nice (and quick and easy) is the WA8SAJ mod, for front panel power output control in LSB and USB modes (a rather simple jumper on the mode switch, sending voltage to the "Carrier" control on the front panel, even in LSB and USB modes, allowing precise adjustment of power output)
Also, another nice mod is adding a "CW Xmit" control (or "MOX") by using the second set of contacts on the "Store" button.
Please see some of the other operator specific mods that can be done to the TR-7 without adversely effecting its performance nor value...
https://www.qrz.com/db/KA4WJA3) Some other mods are rather poor and some are out-n-out ruinous of the TR-7's performance!
Case-in-point, some have published an easy way to significantly shorten the ALC time constant, which gives a bit more "punch" to the transmit audio, at the detriment of the TR-7's wonderfully clean transmit purity [no ALC issues, like "modern" radios] as well as ruining the TR-7's wonderfully smooth on-channel audio...
Other "mods" try to "fix" drifting....but a properly working TR-7 will drift 200hz - 300hz during its first 10 - 15 minutes after a cold start, and then after is darn stable! (mine stays "on freq", within 10hz or so all night, no matter how much transmitting vs. receiving)
Others desire to make it look "new" by changing the S-meter and PTO panel lights to LED's....without realizing the incandescent bulb next to the PTO
can be of help (but not necessarily) in keeping the PTO temperature stable....nor realizing that some of those LED's are so bright that you might need an overhead light on above you, in your ham shack, to still be able to "see" the controls on the front of the TR-7...
Others have tried to change the cooling fan (in Europe, etc. it was necessary, due to the factory fan was 120vac fan), not realizing the many options the Drake TR-7 design engineer Milt Sullivan went thru to find just the right fan (I have the details on this, if you desire....and, you CAN find 120vac or 230vac or 12vdc fans that meet these specs)
Chris, I'm not in any way implying you need to do any modifications at all!
Just letting you know what may have already been done to your new TR-7, so you will be aware.

73,
John, KA4WJA