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[W4OEQ]

Will be using my ham-stick antenna(s) with my HF rig on QRP.  I will connect the ham-stick mount to a chainlink fence.  Do
I still need a separate counterpoise wire or will the fence itself serve that purpose?  W4OEQ

[W7CXC]

Fence should be good!

[KB1GMX]

Fence is ok.  I've done that.

I assume a "JAWS" mount. 

FYI since the counterpoise is linear the pattern
will not be omnidirectional.  Same deal for the same
antenna on a car/truck.


Allison

[K7LZR]

I once used 40 & 20m Hamsticks with a Yaesu FT-817nd as my mobile rig. Worked surprisingly well considering only 5w TX but I did have a few QSOs with that setup .

[W4OEQ]

What about mounting the ham stick antenna on a movable tripod in an open grassy area?  Would I need to use one or more counterpoise wires lying on the ground?

[WB6BYU]

What about mounting the ham stick antenna on a movable tripod in an open grassy area?  Would I need to use one or more counterpoise wires lying on the ground?

At least one, preferably several.

If you can elevate the wire a couple feet off the ground, you
may be able to get by with 1 or 2.  In that case, the length
of the radial(s) will affect the antenna tuning in the same
way that the top whip does.

If they are on the ground, that throws the resonance of the
radials off.  The more radials, the less the impact (besides
also reducing ground losses).  But the details of just how
the radials are laid on the ground can make a difference:
how far out from the tripod the wires come into contact
with the ground will affect the tuning.


A friend asked me to check out his cute little portable
vertical antenna.  It came in a nice case and had long
adjustable coil, and the manual said it only needed one
radial for each band.  I set it up on the patio table and
ran the radial wires off towards the fence.  Try as I might,
I couldn't get the antenna to tune properly, at least not
with a low SWR.

The ends of the wires were laying on the ground.  I
stretched them over the top of the wood fence to elevate
them off the ground for the full length.  Suddenly the
antenna would tune up much more better.

So how the radials are arranged can be critical, especially
if you have a limited range of adjustment on the antenna.

I have a telescoping vertical for 10 through 20m mounted
on a tripod.  It has 2 radials per band.  The feedpoint is
about 4' off the ground, so I tie strings on the ends of the
radials and stake them to the ground so the end of the
wire itself is at least 1 - 2 feet off the ground.  That gives
me much more consistent tuning.

[PE1HZG]

I'm a bit troubled by this. I looked up "hamstick" and if google told me the truth then this is a reduced-length antenna where the wire is wound around it.

You are using QRP and that adds a challenge. Then you add a "compromise antenna" and you get even more of a challenge. Don't be surprised if your results are not very good, and your wallet will be empty.

May I suggest that you consider a full-size dipole and compare the results. For 20m, buying 5m of twinlead electrical cable at a hardware store, split the wire in two 5 meter wires, connect the "middle" via some cable to your QRP rig. You will be surprised with the results and your reports.
(we Europeans have it easy because we can just buy a 5m-spool of this cable and it is made to measure for 20m dipoles. Countries with imperial sizes will need to do a little math here. For some reason, the 20m band isn't called "65 ft band" but that would have been easier.)

Unfortunately, I see this a lot with Elmer stations. "Start with QRP" and "add a compromise antenna" and then the results are lacking and the hobby is no fun at all. May I suggest you start with full-size symetrical antenna (I'm not suggesting a 5-element beam on a 100m-tower), get some experience and results, and then try the hamstick and find that, well, a compromise is a compromise.

73,

Geert Jan PE1HZG

[WB6BYU]

I'm a bit troubled by this. I looked up "hamstick" and if google told me the truth then this is a reduced-length antenna where the wire is wound around it.

You are using QRP and that adds a challenge. Then you add a "compromise antenna" and you get even more of a challenge. Don't be surprised if your results are not very good...

PE1HZG does have good point, that the antenna efficiency
is an important consideration for expected performance,
particularly with QRP.  But sometimes the physical
circumstances (space and supports available, portability,
etc.) dictate a compromise solution.

Your results will be greatly dependent on the band you
are using.  Expect around 10% efficiency with a good ground
system on 40m, and just a few percent on 80m.  But on
20m and higher bands, where the antenna is approaching
1/8 wavelength, the efficiency may be 50% or more,
depending on your ground system.

(One problem with using a chain link fence is that you
don't necessarily know how well the sections are connected
together electrically.  So try it and see.)


A bit of background.  The original "HAMSTICK" was sold by the
Lakeview Company, now out of business as far as I can tell.
It uses wire wrapped around a fiberglass tube or rod for the
bottom half of the antenna, and an adjustable steel whip for
the top half.  The antennas are designed for mobile use and
the length is about 8' (2.4 m).

Several other companies now make similar antennas, and,
whether or not the word "HAMSTICK" was a registered
trademark, that is the generic term used to describe them.
One of the major differences is that with some of the newer
versions you can unscrew the top whip without disturbing
the tuning, rather than having to loosen the set screw to
remove the whip.

The primary efficiency problem (besides the short length on
the lower bands) is the close-spaced, small diameter coil.
This increases self-capacitance, and, as the coil length
increases on the lower bands, the antenna looks more like
a base-loaded antenna rather than center-loaded.  A
larger diameter loading coil in the center of the antenna
would improve efficiency, but the antennas wouldn't
store as easily, and manufacturing wouldn't be as simple.

Something like this.


That's not to say that you can't make contacts with them
at QRP power levels, even on 80m.  But it certainly will
be more difficult than with a more efficient antenna, or
higher power levels.   They work best at 20m and higher
frequencies.

[KG4RUL]

Consider an MFJ-347, 3/8-24, DOUBLE T PIPE MOUNT, W/SO-239,(85-0347-1) with a pair of MFJ "Ham Sticks".  You end up with a 1 element beam that gives you a little gain and, some directionality and, no need for a counterpoise or radials.  I have used this setup on 75M, 40M, 20M and 15M bands with an old Alliance U100 antenna rotator.  It does require you to be able to access the mount to change "Ham Sticks" for each band (made easier with with quick disconnects).

OR step it up with the MFJ-2100, HF OCTOPUS ANTENNA BASE, WITH 8 3/8-24 FEMALE and four pairs of "Ham Sticks" permanently mounted.

[W1MOW]

OR step it up with the MFJ-2100, HF OCTOPUS ANTENNA BASE, WITH 8 3/8-24 FEMALE and four pairs of "Ham Sticks" permanently mounted.

I bought one of the "MFJ Octopus Antenna Base" found it so badly put together, I ended up returning it. (MFJ strikes again.) I ended up up making one, it is easy. The hardest part was finding an 8 sided box. Just ended up printing one from plastic, has not yet been an issue. If I had to do it again I would have just purchased a "Chameleon Sypder Mount". Sadly they don't seem to make them any more, but the do make a "CHA Quad One",  (https://chameleonantenna.com/shop-here/ols/products/cha-quad-one) it should be easy to make one. You just have to decide how much your time is worth.

Gary W1MOW

[W4OEQ]

I appreciate the responses to my question.  Let me clarify a bit.  I am 82 years old and have been a ham since age 14.  Extra class license for many years.  Mostly operate CW and some digital.  Best hobby ever!  My problem is that I live in an apartment complex and can only operate portable from a picnic table outside somewhere (e.g., city park).  I cannot mount wire antennas nor haul around  with me any complex antenna system.  The "hamstick" product available from MFJ (and elsewhere) allows me to set up, operate, and take down for operating periods of 60-90 minutes.  So, the question is how to best utilize this antenna in an open urban area.  I cannot bury wires, string wires in trees, float a balloon, or raise a tower.  I have been successful using the ham stick antennas on a tripod with two 16 foot wires lying on the grass.  I also have been successful when connecting one of those wires to a nearby chain link fence.  The general question I posed is whether or not anyone has a suggestion for an improvement in what I have been doing.  Tnx for all suggestions!  73, W4OEQ

[AC2EU]

I appreciate the responses to my question.  Let me clarify a bit.  I am 82 years old and have been a ham since age 14.  Extra class license for many years.  Mostly operate CW and some digital.  Best hobby ever!  My problem is that I live in an apartment complex and can only operate portable from a picnic table outside somewhere (e.g., city park).  I cannot mount wire antennas nor haul around  with me any complex antenna system.  The "hamstick" product available from MFJ (and elsewhere) allows me to set up, operate, and take down for operating periods of 60-90 minutes.  So, the question is how to best utilize this antenna in an open urban area.  I cannot bury wires, string wires in trees, float a balloon, or raise a tower.  I have been successful using the ham stick antennas on a tripod with two 16 foot wires lying on the grass.  I also have been successful when connecting one of those wires to a nearby chain link fence.  The general question I posed is whether or not anyone has a suggestion for an improvement in what I have been doing.  Tnx for all suggestions!  73, W4OEQ

Ok that certainly limits the possibilities. However, You need something better than a hamstick for QRP! How about a buddypole or even a buddystick?
Our club uses them on POTA events with reasonable success.

If you have trees or posts available, maybe consider a portable wire dipole to sting up? Some parachute cord  and a couple of 3 oz lead sinkers work pretty well...

[AA4PB]

When I was operating portable from parks I used a pair of hamsticks configured as a dipole at about 10 feet off the ground. Ran 5W CW on 20M and 40M and made lots of contacts. I used a home made center insulator with a built-in balun and a large magnet so it could be easily attached to any steel pole, such as an existing parking lot light pole, etc.

[KG4RUL]

I appreciate the responses to my question.  Let me clarify a bit.  I am 82 years old and have been a ham since age 14.  Extra class license for many years.  Mostly operate CW and some digital.  Best hobby ever!  My problem is that I live in an apartment complex and can only operate portable from a picnic table outside somewhere (e.g., city park).  I cannot mount wire antennas nor haul around  with me any complex antenna system.  The "hamstick" product available from MFJ (and elsewhere) allows me to set up, operate, and take down for operating periods of 60-90 minutes.  So, the question is how to best utilize this antenna in an open urban area. I cannot bury wires, string wires in trees, float a balloon, or raise a tower. I have been successful using the ham stick antennas on a tripod with two 16 foot wires lying on the grass.  I also have been successful when connecting one of those wires to a nearby chain link fence.  The general question I posed is whether or not anyone has a suggestion for an improvement in what I have been doing.  Tnx for all suggestions!  73, W4OEQ

Ok that certainly limits the possibilities. However, You need something better than a hamstick for QRP! How about a buddypole or even a buddystick?
Our club uses them on POTA events with reasonable success.

If you have trees or posts available, maybe consider a portable wire dipole to sting up? Some parachute cord  and a couple of 3 oz lead sinkers work pretty well...

NOTE:  Op says cannot use trees, etc.

I still think the Hamstick dipole option mounted on a tripod offers a lot of advantages for this type of portable operation.  The MFJ Hamsticks break down to two parts via a threaded connection and the tripod folds up.  Maybe a two wheel cart to carry the gear with the battery and radios(s) mounted on it.