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Author Topic: Kenwood TS-2000X has some hisss sound when first turned on then fades way down  (Read 282 times)

KZ4USA

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 has some hisss sound when first turned on even with the AF gain off  then fades away down but still there even with the AF gain off. If You turn the AF gain up it will cover it up if someone is talking but its still there if you turn the
AF gain back down of off. It doesn't effect the audio coming in or going out.
Like to get it fixed. Anyone know someone that can fix it? Its been a good radio for me.
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N4ATS

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To funny , I had an issue with one many years ago and actually found the video!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wARL1VPU-WY
« Last Edit: July 09, 2022, 12:52:49 PM by N4ATS »
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KZ4USA

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Very interesting. Looks like if I change the 100uf capacitor can solve the problem.
I wonder where I can buy a cap. like that?

Thanks for the video I will save that. Looks like he was spraying it maybe with heat.  As it heats up the sound goes down but not completely away. With a new one it might be all gone.
Now I have to find one to replace it of same type and size round looks like.
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KZ4USA

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Looks like this place has them
https://www.mouser.com/c/passive-components/capacitors/?q=100UF%2C6.3V
There are a few different types of the round ones. Some say 20% etc not sure what that means?
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N4ATS

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Any 100uF 16V cap will work
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KZ4USA

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Any 100uF 16V cap will work
Thanks for your help. I guess these are surface mounts and not sure how easy it would be to take
it off and solder new one. Low power 20watt solder gun would be good.
I have a variable power one but not sure how far down I can turn it down to.
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KZ4USA

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What is the best soldering iron for this job and power. I see some people use some type of tweezers tips for
small solder work too. Also a solder sucker tool can make things easier. I have used one in the past on projects, I need a new one if I will use one on this project.
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K5LXP

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You're not going to have a lot of luck with a solder sucker on a surface mount cap.  A very basic 25W or so soldering iron should be plenty.  Two of them would offer to heat each end and effortlessly pick up the part but you can do it with one, "teasing" up each end a bit at a time.  Two things to remember - you don't care how much you abuse the part you're removing (it's bad already), and you care very much about collateral damage to the board and surrounding parts.  So slow and careful, you don't want to make any extra work for yourself.  Once the part is removed, clean the pads off with solder wick.  Use a Q tip or small brush and alcohol to clean the flux off the board, then place and solder the new part down one end at a time.  Clean the area with alcohol again and you're done.

Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM
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KZ4USA

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Thanks for the reply about the solder sucker, guess I will use wick.
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K0UA

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Small surface mount components including IC's with lotsa legs can be easily removed with application of "chip quick" and some liquid rosin and a pair of tweezers  It makes a slow freeze alloy and gives you several seconds to remove the part.  No "teasing up an end" or things like that. It is pure Magic.  It amalgamates with the regular solder and transforms it to the slow freeze alloy. Here is one place to get it.

https://www.amazon.com/Fast-Chip-Removal-Temperature-Alloy/dp/B015RV4NBS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=EPB0OLRZQCJG&keywords=chip+quick&qid=1657743659&sprefix=chip+quick%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-3


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73  James K0UA

K0UA

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Here is a short video of the chip quick and the liquid rosin in action.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kyaz4Zrd78
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73  James K0UA

K0UA

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Thanks for the reply about the solder sucker, guess I will use wick.

No. no sucker, no wick.  Use chipquick.
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73  James K0UA

KZ4USA

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Thanks K0UA for the info. I will check the video and it might be just what I need.
Thankyou
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K5LXP

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I've been working on surface mount pushing 40 years now and I've never used chipquick.  Maybe it works OK but I think it's a lot of trouble to go through to remove a bad part.  For any IC with legs you just cut all the legs, remove the part and then desolder the pins - way easier and not as much trauma to the PCB.  The part is bad already - what difference does it make if it's destroyed in removal?  Depending on the end tabs of the SMD cap you might be able to do the same but having only 2 terminals they come off pretty readily with one or two irons.

Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM
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