Bob, K7JQ,
I do sort-of agree....but, there are other applications, like desiring a clean / low IMD signal at legal-limit in whatever mode you're using (as well as desiring the tank circuit to do better than just "survive" in high-VSWR [> 4:1], as well as not wanting the power supply to limit the amp...etc. etc..)
IMO, unless you’re a long-winded RTTY ragchewer, I see no need for a brick-on-key full power 100% duty cycle 24/7 amp. Tube vs SS amp?…when was a transceiver last manufactured with a tube PA?
Preface: I mean NO offense to anyone here!
I am NOT digging against the Mercury or Elecraft at all!
Please nobody infer anything rude here at all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!I guess, I need to start my posts with a disclaimer now, huh?
Okay....no onto my further thoughts:
We have folks posting the drive vs. output graphs of amps like the KPA-1500 and Mercury IIIs, showing the 1-db compression point well below their advertised / spec'd output! (which is where they have already departed from being "linear", but then they are run right up to [or even beyond] their advertised / spec'd outputs, running seriously-non-linear)
Depending on which ham's graphs you use, the 1-db comp point of the Merc IIIs is ~ 750 - 800 watts, I think....but, it's advertised as a "1200 watt" amp....(and, I think the KPA-1500 is around 985 watts? but, I'd have to look and see, so don't take that as an absolute)
So, if we look at amps that have the device and heat dissipation that can handle "brick-on-the-key" at its advertised/spec'd output, then 99% of the time, this same amp will usually be well below its 1-db compression point at this advertised/spec'd output (and hence, hopefully operating "linearly"!), rather then being 30% to 50% above its 1-db compression point, and being a dirty amp.
So, while "brick-on-the-key" might not be a necessary spec for most hams, it darn should be nice if many amps were not being run beyond their linear range, yes?
And, one way to do that is to use an amp that is actually "linear" at its advertised/spec'd output....or just buy an amp and only use it to ~ 2/3's of its advertised / spec'd output....
{I don't think I need to write which one would be my choice....but, to be clear, I actually do both!

Yep, I run my amps below their advertised/spec'd output....but, that's a whole 'nother discussion, 'cuz their advertised outputs are > legal-limit...

}
And, then we have the other end of the spectrum, so-to-speak...
As I posted yesterday:
P.S. For the naysayers out there, who wonder who needs "brick-on-the-key" at 1500 watts (or 2250 watts, as in Canada)....I do agree it's a darn small share of hams....BUT...
But, when you have the opposite end of the amp users out there pushing their amps WAY beyond the limit (over on QRZ just yesterday, we have a guy querying about what went wrong [poof!] in his AL-811 with three 811'a, when he was using on FT-8 at 400 watts!!!!!!), and it seems that none (or damn few) even comprehend what IMD is, nor what the 1-db compression point of their amp is, etc....well, I'd rather have everyone that could afford it run a "brick-on-the-key" amp!
No, BS....this was actually a thread on the zed....
He was running the snot out of an AL-811 (3-tuber) at > 400 watts on FT-8!
It blew up / blew at least one tube....and, he wondered why/how?
So...
So, there are some reasons why a "brick-on-the-key" amp is nice!

Just not a necessity for most.
Hope you don't mind my slight disagreement with ya' Bob?
73,
John, KA4WJA