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Author Topic: Question for some of you smart hams  (Read 1406 times)

KM4AH

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Question for some of you smart hams
« on: December 24, 2022, 01:28:45 PM »

 I built a YC156A amp a couple of years ago.  I used a WD7S control board.
The power supply is 6000 volts DC more or less.
Anyhow, when the amp finishes the warm up period the grid current with 100 watts drive doesn't even light one LED.  But, if I get long winded on some story or something the grid current creeps up and may hit 100 mA.  To the point it was going in to soft fault on voice peaks with maybe a 2 second reset.
So, I just lifted the legs on the comparator associated with grid trip. Cured that problem.

I mean it has 15 dB gain. The output doesn't change. Tube hasn't blown up.  And, I'm certainly not going to unbolt everything until it does.

The tube doesn't show hot on the anode, if that means anything.

Just curious what the theory is here.
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KF4HR

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Re: Question for some of you smart hams
« Reply #1 on: December 24, 2022, 02:08:14 PM »

I'm not familiar with the operation of the YC156A but its spec sheet indicates grid current of 100ma. (https://www.wv7u.com/yc156amp/qa/YC156DATA.pdf)
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KH6AQ

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Re: Question for some of you smart hams
« Reply #2 on: December 24, 2022, 04:37:17 PM »

I suspect that during a long transmission the amp tank circuit is heating up and detuning the amp thereby causing higher grid current. Can you try adjusting the LOAD control to reduce grid current?
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VE7RF

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Re: Question for some of you smart hams
« Reply #3 on: December 24, 2022, 04:38:49 PM »

Whatever is used to read grid current on the led's might well be outputting false info.  You might want to temp insert a fluke dvm in series with the oem grid metering, or temp  remove the oem  grid current measuring circuit, and insert the fluke dvm.....to get the real story.  Your existing grid overcurrent protection scheme is probably tied into the existing grid current / led driver setup.

The YC-156 is a pulse tube. Per their spec sheets they show only 40 ma of grid current ( average during each pulse for 20 kw pulsed output).

They also depict 750 ma of idle current and  30 vdc of bias..... which obviously isn't gonna be used on SSB.  Bias would have to be a lot more than 30 vdc.  Idle should be more like 150-200 ma on SSB..and way less, like 25-50 ma on CW.

BTW, eimac read me the riot act yrs ago..and told me to use a full 8 minute warmup ( not 6 mins) on the heater, before drive is applied.   B+ can be on right away, when fil turned on..as long as the tube is cutoff, and no drive applied.

Most fluke dvm's, like my 87, have a peak reading feature, which does a snapshot every 1 msec.  Then u can read peak grid current, just like ur leds.
« Last Edit: December 24, 2022, 04:41:23 PM by VE7RF »
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KH6AQ

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Re: Question for some of you smart hams
« Reply #4 on: December 24, 2022, 05:09:08 PM »

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W6MTF

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Re: Question for some of you smart hams
« Reply #5 on: December 24, 2022, 08:18:29 PM »

I echo what KH6AQ advised. In addition an increasing load SWR could be a factor, I saw that happen once on a smaller triode. I would assume its being monitored closely though, so focus on the plate tank, especially a blocking cap that might be heating up. Do replace the grid sensing though and continue to report. All hail the mighty YC156! take good care of my baby! 73 de Reid Brandon W6MTF
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KM4AH

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Re: Question for some of you smart hams
« Reply #6 on: December 25, 2022, 04:38:10 AM »

I have two Fluke 87's and I compared them to confirm they were somewhat accurate.
I took a bench power supply and put 100 mA on the lead that reads the grid current off the B- and set the LED meter to reflect that 100 mA.
I doubt the tank circuit is heating up, but a blocking cap may well be changing value.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ah308/rgerringer/IMG_0236.JPG
« Last Edit: December 25, 2022, 04:41:01 AM by KM4AH »
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VE7RF

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Re: Question for some of you smart hams
« Reply #7 on: December 25, 2022, 05:41:35 AM »

Value of the block cap assy is not critical. If one of em shorted, it would take out the B+ supply via the safety choke.

That plate choke looks like an eagle made unit. Buddy uses the same one on a 4x10.  Runs stone cold on 75m.  Superb design.
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KM4AH

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Re: Question for some of you smart hams
« Reply #8 on: December 25, 2022, 06:05:42 AM »

Value of the block cap assy is not critical. If one of em shorted, it would take out the B+ supply via the safety choke.

That plate choke looks like an eagle made unit. Buddy uses the same one on a 4x10.  Runs stone cold on 75m.  Superb design.

Sort of gets back to it likely being the tube.  Some more evidence. When I first started tuning the amp in to a dummy load I got up to about 4000 watts out, then the wattage started dropping off and the input SWR went up.  So, I thought I had lost a relay on the tuned input board and replaced the 75 meter relay.
But, that was not the problem.
When I replaced the plate transformer and was re-tuning, same thing.  Wattage drops off, input SWR goes up and if you keep messing with it it will trip the 30 amp switch/breaker.

Soon as it cools back off it's fine.  So, there you go.

Something is breaking down when it gets hot.  The tube anode is never hot according to a laser thermometer.

It is really not an issue rag chewing SSB, and I really don't want to change that tube.

But, it would nice to know as close as possible what is causing it.
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VE7RF

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Re: Question for some of you smart hams
« Reply #9 on: December 25, 2022, 03:04:16 PM »

Value of the block cap assy is not critical. If one of em shorted, it would take out the B+ supply via the safety choke.

That plate choke looks like an eagle made unit. Buddy uses the same one on a 4x10.  Runs stone cold on 75m.  Superb design.

Sort of gets back to it likely being the tube.  Some more evidence. When I first started tuning the amp in to a dummy load I got up to about 4000 watts out, then the wattage started dropping off and the input SWR went up.  So, I thought I had lost a relay on the tuned input board and replaced the 75 meter relay.
But, that was not the problem.
When I replaced the plate transformer and was re-tuning, same thing.  Wattage drops off, input SWR goes up and if you keep messing with it it will trip the 30 amp switch/breaker.

Soon as it cools back off it's fine.  So, there you go.

Something is breaking down when it gets hot.  The tube anode is never hot according to a laser thermometer.

It is really not an issue rag chewing SSB, and I really don't want to change that tube.

But, it would nice to know as close as possible what is causing it.

Local buddy built his YC-156 amp years ago (80-10m),   I sold him my old 6700 vdc supply (10 kva, 120 lb, 4800 vac, pole pig).   He bought a total of 12 (TWELVE ) YC-156's.....and only 3 of em are good   The other 9 were all duds...and all the 9 duds developed  (I think) a grid to cathode short...after aprx 5 mins into the 8 min warm up.  Of the 3 that work, 2 are superb, and the 3rd is down a bit on emission.   A good tube will do an easy 5 kw out with 100w of drive. 7 kw with 150w of drive..and 9 kw with 200w of drive.

You need a spare, good tube to verify the amp.   I would suspect the tube.   I can't recommend the yc-156 anymore, since the tubes on the market these days, are typ pulls of pulls.  Yrs ago, the 11m ops got a hold of em, and beat the crap out of them.

Contact Jim Klein,  K7RDX, as he has a source for good 156's / 172's.
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KM4AH

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Re: Question for some of you smart hams
« Reply #10 on: December 25, 2022, 03:27:33 PM »

Thanks man. I have three. One is tested by Richardson at 100% . Another at 70%.  The one in there is untested. I know that you know how much trouble it is to change that tube, and it serves my operation just fine.  I use it every day actually on 75 meter rag chew.

My thinking was that if it is going south why does it not just arc and blow all to hell ?
The physics of this is just curious to me.
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W6MTF

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Re: Question for some of you smart hams
« Reply #11 on: December 25, 2022, 06:16:23 PM »

I didn't see this issue before but a changing input VSWR maybe caused by increasing grid current, as grid bars expand and can rotate ever so slightly with temperature as they start grabbing electrons when not aligned properly over the stripes between cathode segments.
K1FO found reducing heater voltage about 10% reduced grid current effects in some 3CX800A7's where Ic was unstable as the drive was applied.

Grids in 8877's are very short and do not normally change like that but the YC156/YC179 grids is a very long structure and less rigid as a result. 
W6MTF


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KM4AH

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Re: Question for some of you smart hams
« Reply #12 on: December 26, 2022, 06:55:35 AM »

Thanks. That makes a whole lot of sense . The tube was given to me. And, I think it was given to him or part of a trade. So, who knows why it was taken out of service.
Like I say, it has about 15 dB gain and works fine in normal SSB operation. I expect it would puke if I did contests.

This control board was designed around a single 8877 .  So, I'm not sure what the upper limit of the grid trip adjustment is.  I had to change a cap to get the warm up timer up to 8 minutes.

I suppose I could test it, but I'm a little leery of putting current on that control board more than just the 100mA to set the meter.

Anyhow, thanks for the input.
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N0UN

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Re: Question for some of you smart hams
« Reply #13 on: December 28, 2022, 03:59:34 PM »

I echo what KH6AQ advised. In addition an increasing load SWR could be a factor, I saw that happen once on a smaller triode. I would assume its being monitored closely though, so focus on the plate tank, especially a blocking cap that might be heating up. Do replace the grid sensing though and continue to report. All hail the mighty YC156! take good care of my baby! 73 de Reid Brandon W6MTF

Is this THE "Reid", friend & mentor to Bruce Gary (SK)?

N0UN
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VE7RF

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Re: Question for some of you smart hams
« Reply #14 on: December 29, 2022, 04:46:47 AM »

I echo what KH6AQ advised. In addition an increasing load SWR could be a factor, I saw that happen once on a smaller triode. I would assume its being monitored closely though, so focus on the plate tank, especially a blocking cap that might be heating up. Do replace the grid sensing though and continue to report. All hail the mighty YC156! take good care of my baby! 73 de Reid Brandon W6MTF

Is this THE "Reid", friend & mentor to Bruce Gary (SK)?

N0UN

Bruce Gary was a very smart guy.  He flew over to the middle east, and fixed all those grid driven Asamoto amplifiers, that all oscillated when fed into a resonant ant..( and blew up the xcvr to boot)....but worked just fine into a DL. 

I just went through a similar scenario with yet another Asamoto grid driven tetrode.  Worked fine on 75m into an ant, or DL on 75m....( worked on 75m but real high gain, like 22.5 db)... but would osc on all other bands, whether into a resonant ant, or DL...and that was with amp keyed, and NO drive applied, go figure. Would osc with a DL on both the input and the output. 

The fix was to completely rebuild the  PI tuned input.  The mile long path was eliminated. Terminating resistance reduced from 1000 ohms, down to 500 ohms. On the advice of Robert, W0VMC, a small parasitic suppressor was inserted right at the grid input of the socket. The new coupling cap was wired directly between the 500 ohm terminating resistor ( 2 x 1k flat packs in parallel, and heatsinked to rear chassis) and the new grid parasitic suppressor.  Virtually zero lead length anywhere.  Bypass caps installed on both sides of the cathode. (oem config only had bypass caps on left side of cathode).
Only one end of both C1 + C2 caps used to terminate the stator.

Ok, now it's 100% rock stable on all bands 80-10m. Gain reduced to 20 db. Neutralization not required. (Oem config didn't have neutralization either). Input SWR is 1:1 from 80-17m. On 15m, it shows a 1.5:1 swr, which is caused by the huge 100 pf of input C of the 4x10 tube...( and 160 pf on a 4x15).   That C can't be absorbed by the C2 air variable on the PI tuned input. The fix is a relay switched small coil, to cancel out the XC of the tube. Only used on 15-12-10m.   

...

The original oem config had current traveling through a mile of coax,from input side of TR relay,  then up  to one end of the hotside of the C1 air variable cap, then through the entire length of the stator of the C1 cap, then through the roller coil. Roller wired wrong, with current flowing the entire length of the central shorting bar, when on upper HF bands, then through the entire length of the hotside of the C2 air variable, then a mile of strap to the hotside of the 1000 ohm globar. Cold end of same (really long) globar bonded to chassis via a tall, solid aluminum standoff. Return current path is then through the aluminum standoff to chassis, then through a mile of chassis..and back to bypass caps at only one side of the cathode..at the socket.  No grid suppressor used.   It's no wonder it oscillated. It was a dog's breakfast from day 1.

On another grid driven amp, this time a hb  4x5 grid driven affair, a 450 ohm globar is  used in conjunction with a 1:9  un-un.  No pi tuned input. "no tuned input required".  All sounds wonderful, until you realize the tube's 100 pf of input C is directly in parallel with the 450 ohm globar.  That just screwed up the input swr, on all bands.  An equal amount of XL has to be inserted in parallel with the 450 ohm globar....and that's a lot of coil required for the lower bands, since the Xc of 100 pf increases...  as freq decreases.  EG: 100 pf =  418 ohms of XC @ 3.8 mhz.  418 ohms of XL = 17.5 uh.  A small 20 uh roller coil had to be used, and tweaked one each band.   On 160m, it's worse, with 35 uh required.

Multiband, grid driven tetrodes, using large tetrodes is not as simple as they appear.  If done correctly, they don't have to be neutralized.  If they do require neutralization, that opens up another can of worms. The typ, small value vac cap used, can, and will develop 'whiskers' with B+ applied to one side of the vac cap.  A special, inert gas type is typ used, or the conventional vac cap has to be over rated.  Depending on input config used, the neutralization cap will interact with the tuned input, throwing both off.    Then you also have the screen and bias supplies to deal with, plus screen and plate over current protection. Ok, rant over.

 
« Last Edit: December 29, 2022, 04:53:07 AM by VE7RF »
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