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[KD9PQB]

Just got a 100W transceiver which the specifications say will draw 23 amps max while transmitting.  I'm looking for a power supply.  Yaesu makes one, the FP-1023, that will supply 23 amps continuous with 25 amps at the "protection point".  Is this a good match or should I bump up to a power supply with greater capacity to have a margin?

Any comments on the Yaesu or recommendations for something better?  I won't say money is no object but if it's justifiable, I can spend a good bit more than what the Yaesu costs.

Thanks for any advice.   

[W7CXC]

Have that supply and using with same power needs...works great. No issues . It's quiet, clean power and is small. 

[K6SDW]

Past 10 years or so I've had good luck with MFJ switching power supplies, currently using the MFJ-4230MVP to power my IC7300 and it works great. Of course, there's other manufacturers that build supplies like Samlex. Some hams don't like switching supplies due to the possibility of RFI in the receiver. For 20+ years I used a Pyramid linear supply, it was a workhouse until after 20 years the components started to die...I definitely go my monies worth with that supply.

GL/73

[WA2EIO]

Your Yaesu supply should do fine, but you are correct in wanting some 'extra' reserve.   It appears this one has that, and of course, the Max. current needed by your rig is 23 Amps and you will normally not be drawing that for any length of time unless you run a digital mode at full power. 
Consider though, that  if you are going to run additional accessories off the supply, then you might consider something with a bit more 'reserve', like a 25 Amp continuous, 35 Amp peak unit. The one I would consider is one of the Astron 35 Amp supplies, metered or not, and switching or linear; your choice.
Many hams use one of the Astron supplies, either the switching or the more traditional linear type.  In any event, try to keep the power lead from the supply to the rig reasonably short to avoid voltage drop due to line resistance.

[KD9PQB]

Your Yaesu supply should do fine, but you are correct in wanting some 'extra' reserve.   It appears this one has that, and of course, the Max. current needed by your rig is 23 Amps and you will normally not be drawing that for any length of time unless you run a digital mode at full power. 
Consider though, that  if you are going to run additional accessories off the supply, then you might consider something with a bit more 'reserve', like a 25 Amp continuous, 30 Amp peak unit.
Many hams use one of the Astron supplies, either the switching or the more traditional linear type.  In any event, try to keep the power lead from the supply to the rig reasonably short to avoid voltage drop due to line resistance.

I was just looking at the Astron linear 30A at DX Engineering.  I appreciate this advice and the comments from the others.  I think I'm going to go with the Astron to give myself a little more flexibility.

Thanks all - going to pull the trigger.

[KD9PQB]

I lied without meaning to.  I was just about to buy the Astron 35 when I saw a Yaesu FP-1030 on sale at HRO, considerably less than at DXE, so - linear, 30A max, 24A continuous, great reviews on this website.  What's not to like?

Thanks again!

[AI5BC]

What's not to like?

OK since you asked, they are poorly made, specifications are fantasy, outdated technology, poor efficiency, overpriced, and will place you in a ground loop.

For around $170 you can use what the pros use with specs that run circles around astro. For example, the Samlex SEC 1235P-M delivers 30-amps continuously 24 x 7 without getting warm. The come with a real 3-waranty, UL Listing, EMI/RFI compliance, and operate from 90 to 260 VAC. 

https://samlexamerica.com/products/30-amp-switching-power-supply-sec-1235p-m/

[KD9PQB]

What's not to like?

OK since you asked, they are poorly made, specifications are fantasy, outdated technology, poor efficiency, overpriced, and will place you in a ground loop.

For around $170 you can use what the pros use with specs that run circles around astro. For example, the Samlex SEC 1235P-M delivers 30-amps continuously 24 x 7 without getting warm. The come with a real 3-waranty, UL Listing, EMI/RFI compliance, and operate from 90 to 260 VAC. 

https://samlexamerica.com/products/30-amp-switching-power-supply-sec-1235p-m/

Bad Brad.  If you had taken just a second to read my last post, starting with "I lied" you would have realized I did not buy the "Astro". As I wrote, I changed my mind at the last minute when I saw the Yaesu 10-30.  Guess I dodged a bullet and you can chill.  Take care, pardner.

[VK3KTO]

I have used a Yaesu 10 30 for many years, runs an FTDX1200 mostly SSB TX and sometimes VHF/UHF RX at the same time. Just sits there and works!
73 de Mike VK3KTO 

[K1KIM]

I must still be attached to my "Boat Anchor" mentally , though all my new radios are SDR's, I prefer the linear power supplies and use an Astron RS-35M for my main radios. I favor the crowbar circuits many have.

I have built 5 or 6 switching PS's from computer supplies and other LED supplies up to 40 amps. They vary in pp from 23 to 132 mv. The computer supplies tend to be the cleanest, though the one I built from an IOTA supply is a close 2nd.

If you run your PS into a fused power block, you can then run all the radios and accessories from there with PowerPoles.

I do have a Kenwood TS-430s, in the basement shack,  I run off a Kenwood PS-50 and have to admit the matching color etc looks nice together.

[KD9PQB]

I must still be attached to my "Boat Anchor" mentally , though all my new radios are SDR's, I prefer the linear power supplies and use an Astron RS-35M for my main radios. I favor the crowbar circuits many have.

I have built 5 or 6 switching PS's from computer supplies and other LED supplies up to 40 amps. They vary in pp from 23 to 132 mv. The computer supplies tend to be the cleanest, though the one I built from an IOTA supply is a close 2nd.

If you run your PS into a fused power block, you can then run all the radios and accessories from there with PowerPoles.

I do have a Kenwood TS-430s, in the basement shack,  I run off a Kenwood PS-50 and have to admit the matching color etc looks nice together.

I know just enough to understand what you're talking about except "crowbar circuits".  I was pleased with myself for soldering and shrink-wrapping wires to my new WWII Japanese bomber key this morning.  Building a power supply is way beyond me.

I don't know enough to have a strong opinion one way or another on switching vs linear, but what I read, if weight and size isn't important, then linear has a slight advantage in terms of potential noise and that's why I went with the Yaesu and was going to go with the Astron.  The guy I bought my radio from, an IC-7410, had been using an Astron and recommended it.  It's funny to hear or read someone say that "pros" use XYZ when the hobby is "amateur radio". 

I'm surrounded by vintage tube amps for guitar so I'm in the boat anchor crowd as well.

Fused power block is the plan.

Yes, very important to have aesthetically pleasing components.  Thanks

I have used a Yaesu 10 30 for many years, runs an FTDX1200 mostly SSB TX and sometimes VHF/UHF RX at the same time. Just sits there and works!
73 de Mike VK3KTO

Good to know, Mike.  Thanks.

[N2SR]

Just don't be like someone on another site where he had a Flex radio that had a +13.8 Vdc spec of 20A.  So he used a RS-20A supply.  Then he had a "problem" with the radio because it either would not boot up property or crash.  The thread went multiple pages, with many suggesting to use a different power supply.  The OP was adamant that the power supply worked with a different radio and was just fine.  It was also difficult to get any information out of the OP, though he did say he had been in contact with Flex.

After several weeks, the thread went into double digits. 

Finally the OP revealed that he was using an Astron RS-20A power supply, which has a continuous current rating of 16A.  However the radio requires 20A continuous. 

The OP claims that he "knows electronics," and that it was somehow Flex's "fault."   

In the end, Flex told him to send the radio back to them, and they would give him an Icom 7300, which they did.

[WB6BYU]

I know just enough to understand what you're talking about except "crowbar circuits".

That’s an over-voltage protection circuit.

If the output voltage gets too high (due to a regulator
failure), the output of the supply is short circuited -
like dropping a crowbar across the terminals - to blow
a fuse or otherwise shut down the power supply.
That protects the radio attached to it from damage.

It’s a pretty simple circuit that can be added to other
types of supplies if desired (and some will include it).

But for the purpose of this discussion, just read it
as “over-voltage protection”.

[WB8VLC]

If you like to operate on the top end of 10 meters, 29 MHz and above or 6 meters then that Samlex model has 6 to 7 db higher noise than my astron RS20 does.

As a result I trashed 2 samlex supplies because of this issue.

[WA3SKN]

I have had NO issues with samlex supplies.  However, I am presently long-term testing a SS330w... it has an EXTREMELY quiet fan system!(and noise filtering too!)

-Mike.