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Author Topic: Hammarlund SP-600 Restoration  (Read 1178 times)
W1JTO
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Posts: 76




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« on: December 01, 2017, 06:43:26 PM »

Well I just brought home my SP-600, a JX-26, serial #11,xxx.  It's pretty clean, no signs of ANY rework.

My god that thing is heavy.

Assume I need to find someone to fire it up on a variac and completely recap it, align it, what else Huh  How much does this kind of job usually run ?


Any recommendation on a New England specialist to restore this prehistoric art work ?

73 John W1JTO
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K8AXW
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Posts: 6361




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« Reply #1 on: December 01, 2017, 09:03:53 PM »

I can't answer any of your questions but I can tell you the SP-600 was one of the finest receivers built during that era!

When we set up the ham shack in Germany back in 56, we had the choice of many brands of receivers.  The SP-600 because the choice receiver.  You can see it in my photo on QRZ.com. 

Yes, it's a heavy beast but a nice one!  Any reasonable amount to restore it will be worth it.
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N8FVJ
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Posts: 374




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« Reply #2 on: December 02, 2017, 05:46:18 AM »

The JX-26 had the ceramic capacitors that saves you replacing about 50 capacitors & some are a real headache to get access. The only caps under question are located under the chassis on the back panel. They are metal 'tub' type can caps. Three more paper caps are under the chassis & easily seen. Replace the power supply electrolytic capacitors and you will be all set for at least 30 years.

I own this model SP-600 and performed the capacitor changes as stated above. These are great receivers!
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W1JTO
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Posts: 76




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« Reply #3 on: December 02, 2017, 09:23:02 AM »

N8FVJ (James) et al,

Wow another JX-26 !... the limited recapping would be great news... so no BB in the RF Deck or Turret ?  

I had read that the ceramic caps were only in units above serial number 17,xxx range and my JX-26 is 11,532 .

The unit looks clean and untouched ...would you bring it up with a variac of just send it off to be recapped/aligned ?

Are the headphones just standard headphones ?  

Also a few questions.

1. V3 (the horizontally mounted tube on the XTAL unit) is missing, is this optional ?

2. It is missing almost all of the tube covers/top hats, is this a concern and are they replaceable ?

3. Line cord is a mess.  if I replace ... Assume I ground the chassis ?  Should I attach a filter cap to the hot lead or not , is so what cap ?  

If people are interested I will document the adventure and post pictures.

My understanding is that it came from a Vermont SK and worked as of 2011

Kind of Scary !

73 John W1JTO
« Last Edit: December 02, 2017, 09:27:04 AM by W1JTO » Logged
KB7TT
Member

Posts: 17




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« Reply #4 on: December 02, 2017, 12:37:33 PM »

SP600 - JX17 and above do not have 50 black beauties.  They were replaced with ceramics.  I agree, check and replace the paper caps of which there are few and bring it up on a variac.

Enjoy,

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N3DT
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Posts: 1267




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« Reply #5 on: December 02, 2017, 12:41:14 PM »

Super Pro was my first real receiver, right behind the S38E I used until probably the early 70's. I used that SP until the 80's. It was some sort of military version with a separate PS I had to make up. It was a nice RX up through 15M. Good luck with it.
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W1JTO
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Posts: 76




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« Reply #6 on: December 02, 2017, 01:18:09 PM »

SP600 - JX17 and above do not have 50 black beauties.  They were replaced with ceramics.  I agree, check and replace the paper caps of which there are few and bring it up on a variac.

Enjoy,



My understanding (please correct me if not correct) is that

the serial numbers across the entire JX series are sequential  (i.e.a virtual date code)

You can't depend on the JX-xx having particular characteristics since some of JX series spanned a long time (like the JX-26 - which have 3 sub-series delineated by serial numbers)

Keeping my fingers crossed I don't have 55 BBOD to replace :-)



« Last Edit: December 02, 2017, 01:21:24 PM by W1JTO » Logged
N8FVJ
Member

Posts: 374




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« Reply #7 on: December 02, 2017, 03:47:41 PM »

Tube V3 is not needed. Replace line cord and ground chassis. You can buy tube covers on ebay. The first RF tube can be replaced with a 6GM6 for more sensitive receive on 10 meters.
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KM1H
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Posts: 2613




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« Reply #8 on: December 02, 2017, 06:06:02 PM »

And a 6BY6 into the first mixer will bring the internal noise down a lot more.

The JX means it had the crystal controlled LO option as all Hammys were known drifters and unsuitable for RTTY with the VFO.
They are a nice AM and CW radio and not the best for SSB on 20M and up.

I got rid of a JX17 decades ago and have the Hallicrafters version, the R-274 (no letter) that has never been used; and the 274D was another production run. I also have the SX-73 which was the original version of that series, and that one gets used often after I overhauled it.

Carl
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N7QJ
Member

Posts: 2




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« Reply #9 on: December 04, 2017, 07:34:04 AM »

Be sure to check these great resources out:

http://www.hammarlund.info/data/SP%20600_%20Anthology%20Part%201.pdf

http://www.hammarlund.info/data/SP%20600_%20Anthology%20Part%202.pdf

Ryan
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W1JTO
Member

Posts: 76




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« Reply #10 on: December 04, 2017, 10:28:49 AM »

Tube V3 is not needed. Replace line cord and ground chassis. You can buy tube covers on ebay. The first RF tube can be replaced with a 6GM6 for more sensitive receive on 10 meters.


Any particular tube shields ?  IERC ? Or plain silver ones ok ??


Is V3 just needed if you are using a Xtal Huh


N8FVJ, KM1H, and others, would you be ok with answering the occasional specific question out of band ??  If so drop me a yes ... my email is johntohara@gmail.com
« Last Edit: December 04, 2017, 10:53:21 AM by W1JTO » Logged
KM1H
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Posts: 2613




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« Reply #11 on: December 04, 2017, 05:06:22 PM »

If youre going to ask several the same question do it on the forum where it belongs.
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W1JTO
Member

Posts: 76




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« Reply #12 on: December 04, 2017, 06:59:48 PM »

If youre going to ask several the same question do it on the forum where it belongs.

No problem ... I’ll post the questions

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N8FVJ
Member

Posts: 374




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« Reply #13 on: December 05, 2017, 04:38:22 AM »

Ask all the questions you desire. Anyways, V3 is only needed if you want crystal control. The SP-600 uses bayonet type tube shields. IERC that are expensive are not needed.
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KE4OH
Member

Posts: 132




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« Reply #14 on: December 06, 2017, 07:49:21 AM »

No need for the variac treatment. Replace ALL electrolytic caps and any tubulars that might be there.

Some folks use a variac to "bring it up slowly" in hopes of reforming the electrolytic caps. It's not worth it. Just replace them. They are cheap.
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73 de Steve KE4OH
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