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Author Topic: New ham created and then fixed my own TVI RFI problem  (Read 3393 times)

Posts: 190

« on: September 07, 2016, 08:54:39 AM »

Wanted to share this as the problem seems to be rampant when googled and no idea if all are RFI/Ham caused but I could not find any solutions per se online and mine was ham caused. Problem is/was that whenever I keyed my mike on my Yaseu 101ZD at about 100 watts if my TV was on the volume would then ramp down to zero and the remote could bring it back up but as soon as you released the button on the remote it went back to zero even if my ham rig was then shut off. Power down/up on the TV would not fix it- only a hard reset (unplugging) would fix it. Then it would be reproducible anytime I re-keyed my transmitter.
I goggled the subject and found it was a common problem listed not just for my brand (Samsung) and model TV but it was reported for many others such as Toshiba. No mentions of RFI but just some fixes were  unplugging the on board volume control board in the TV and only using the remote and one for my TV the guy that was hailed as a hero for this fix had peeps cutting a ground on that board that he said was not needed. So cutting a ground being a fix got me thunking in the direction:)
First I reviewed the set up for my ham rig with grounding etc and everything is done right. I should also note that my satellite dish (Dish Network) is right under my dipole with about 20 ft of air between them . So with that guys cutting a ground solution I started thinking about my dish ground and when I looked it did not exist. This installation has a 2 wire cable from the dish that also has a maybe 12 gauge external wire next to the pair that is for ground. That comes down to a splitter  box where it all connects with RG6 coax and then off to my TV and the ground from the dish is connected to the case of this splitter but there was no ground leaving it! Now code says the ground should be #6 but the splitter will no even accommodate that gauge! So I put a piece of 12 gauge and ran it to my antenna ground nearby (8 ft copper rod) and ta da the problem was fixed.
So not sure how many of these peeps online that have this problem are getting RFI from Ham/CB or other source but if you have this problem or a neighbor does check to see if their Satellite Dish or the splitter in the cable system is grounded or not. Better than hacking into your nice new LED 60" to cut grounds etc .
Enjoy and 73's

Posts: 12

« Reply #1 on: September 09, 2016, 07:41:25 AM »

I'll have to try that. I have Direct TV at my weekend cabin, and when operating HF it does all kinds of weird things to the TV receiver. I have cured it for the most part by wrapping the TV receiver in tin foil. Doesn't look pretty and the box runs pretty hot, but it works. I remember years ago when they installed satellite dishes they used RG6 with a messenger for grounding the dish, now I think they just use the cheapest RG6 they can find, and not use any RF shielding in the receiver. Worth a try, thanks for the tip.

Posts: 190

« Reply #2 on: September 09, 2016, 09:01:23 AM »

Welcome. Curious if it fixes it. and re: the tinfoil..... as long as you don't start making hats out of it!!!!!! Grin

Posts: 337

« Reply #3 on: September 09, 2016, 09:27:03 PM »

A satellite dish must have a mast ground and if coax is used, a coax ground. The rules are similar for telephone and cable TV feeds. Most of the time, installers will use a connector attached to the exterior of the meter housing (case, pan) for grounding all of these.

All must be connected to an NEC approved grounding point:

1. Electrical service electrode (ground rod), or the conductor that connects the ground rod to the electrical service panel.

The ground rod must be the main electrical ground rod, or if a separate ground rod is installed, bonded to the primary ground with 6 gauge ground wire. It is a common practice among some installers to install a 5 foot ground rod and not back bond. This can lead to several problems. See part 7 for more information about installing isolated ground rods.

Service Panel Pan Clamp

2. The metal electrical service panel. A Service Panel includes the meter housing (pan or case), circuit breaker, or sub panel, if the sub panel is connected to the breaker panel by a rigid metal conduit. A rigid metal conduit is typically schedule 40 steel.

Service Power Conduit

3. A metal electrical raceway or rigid conduit. The metal conduit or raceway that feeds power to your service meter, or runs between service panels. To ground to a conduit, a copper or galvanized steel strap is wrapped around the pipe and secured with a screw that, when tighten, pulls the clamp tight.

Water Service Ground

4. Water pipe. BUT ONLY with in five feet of the water pipes entrance to the structure and only if the water pipe is metal and in direct earth contact for at least 10 feet before entering the property. Attaching a ground wire to a water valve is NOT ACCEPTABLE and should not be accepted.

Read this:

Posts: 12

« Reply #4 on: September 10, 2016, 05:23:41 AM »

someone should tell Direct TV installers about these grounding codes, because the 2 installations they did for me have no dish/mast/coax grounding whatsoever.
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