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   Home   Help Search  
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Author Topic: VIKING RANGER HELP NEEDED VERY EARLY VERSION  (Read 942 times)
KC0VVB
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Posts: 58




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« Reply #15 on: August 29, 2019, 06:59:10 PM »

There is continuity from the center pin of the coax connector to the plate blocking capacitor.
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AC2EU
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« Reply #16 on: August 29, 2019, 07:11:18 PM »

                plate voltage         screen voltage       cathode voltage         plate current
6au6           360                      147
6cl6 osc      359                       84
6cl6 buff     359                       147                      7                              15ma
6146       
Phone         500                       214                                                      130ma
CW             525                       214                                                      150ma

12ax7       
first 1/2       135                                                 1.67
second 1/2  147                                                  1.45

12au7 driver 315                      347                     14




             


12au7 is a dual triode - no screen!
Also, that AC to ground situation should only exist in some  the table top hot chassis radios ( no pwr xfmr) , not a transmitter.
If you have continuity to ground on one leg of the AC , SOMETHING IS SERIOUSLY WRONG.  Shorted AC bypass cap?
Modern safety caps are smaller vaules than the old designs to limit the current at 60HZ as well as having an internal fuse in case they short.
If the cap failed in the old designs, it would just shunt AC to the chassis and  electrocute you , no problem...  Grin
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KC0VVB
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Posts: 58




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« Reply #17 on: August 30, 2019, 02:22:11 PM »

That's right carl no output on any band vfo is working  tested on
80m 3.550, 40m 7.100, 20m 14.200, 10m 28.400.
I can hear it on the hallicrafters sx100 and sounds great.

Both 6cl6  have been replaced with new tubes.

I did notice something strange with the drive pot I recently replaced it seems like I have
To turn it quite a bit farther than everyone else to get drive. I have to turn my new pot to the 3:00 position. It is wired the same as the previous pot was when the transmitter was working.

Drive is Drive I guess it doesn't matter how far you turn the knob I just find it odd.
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KM1H
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« Reply #18 on: August 30, 2019, 06:43:08 PM »

Silly question.

Is your power meter working which includes any cables connectors, adaptors, etc.?
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KC0VVB
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Posts: 58




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« Reply #19 on: August 30, 2019, 08:10:59 PM »

Yes its an mfj 267 dummy load / integrated peak reading watt meter adjustable from 300 to 3000 watts. i bought it 3 months ago. It lights up and the needle shows some small amount of reflected swr. Im not getting any visible reaction from the 6146 that would indicate output activity. Not much hum from the transformer not much buzz from the modulator tubes. I guess i would expect it to be more alive. My viking II shook the whole desk and i could hear the modulator sing.     
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KC0VVB
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« Reply #20 on: August 30, 2019, 09:24:59 PM »

Carl,
I noticed the frequencies I was hearing the ranger on are approximate multiples of the same frequency in the vfo. I was switching bands and turning the vfo knob but in reality the actual frequency was not changing. I discovered a broken vernier coupler in the vfo that connects the tuning knob to the variable capacitor.

I was able to carefully push the vfo variable capacitor with the eraser of my pencil back in to the ham bands.   

I now have output. About 50w carrier. Curiously the drive pot is fine business at the 12:00 position.

Thank you for all your advice and support i'm off to change the coupler
Erik kc0vvb
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AC2EU
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« Reply #21 on: August 31, 2019, 07:36:50 AM »

I have a silly question also:

Did read the part of the manual on how to tune the thing?

It has the "grid meter", so you can max that reading and the plate so that can be "dipped".

From what you have been writing,  it seems like everything is working , but it's just not dialed in correctly.
These old rigs can be quite finicky to tune for max output.
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KM1H
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« Reply #22 on: August 31, 2019, 07:53:51 AM »

WOW, good find Erik; that is a new one for me and Im sure many others.

Now start enjoying it and if you want to drive an amp keep the carrier to around 20W for most of them....less for those with wimpy tubes and power supplies. Mine usually drives a vintage Hunter 2000C.

Carl
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K4PF
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« Reply #23 on: September 02, 2019, 02:55:40 PM »

I recently bought replacement insulators for a Johnson VFO coupler repair from this eBay guy:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Johnson-Viking-500-Ranger-Valiant-Pacemaker-Navigator-VFO-coupler-REPAIR-KIT/333132867075?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

The fabrication was nicely done.  I'm a happy camper.  My own VFO coupler hadn't broken,
but I am somewhat mechanically clumsy, and I figured it's only a matter of time...

73,
Ed Knobloch
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KC0VVB
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Posts: 58




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« Reply #24 on: September 04, 2019, 06:36:31 PM »

Carl,
Speaking of amplifiers for the ranger, for some reason the only place e-ham is letting me post is right here.  I was un able to start a new thread. I thought I should ask you to look at the pictures of the amp I just bought on eBay while the pictures are still there if you are an eBay member you can see pictures of auctions that recently ended and down load pictures. my computer is Hooked to my 55" ultra high definition tv. So I was able to look really closely at something that looked like a complete basket case at first. The only thing that was original thunderbolt was the chassis a couple of varriable caps and some tubes. 85 percent of the original thunderbolt parts were  gone. I figured I could use the knobs and high voltage switches for the ranger. But as I was sitting in my recliner looking at all the stuff that was there.  I could see a lot of the stuff you and wb2wik k5an wa1hlr  w8ji  were talking about solid state power supply of course that killed the Hv  Choke which was removed and replaced with a huge multi section oil filled cap above the chassis as big as the power  transformer. There is a couple of  strings of  8 diodes and  some modern mystery bos thea would seem to be a soft start module. The loading capacitors for the final seem to be missing but it appears to have some heavy coils added around the tube sockets and some he grids may be grounded. I have no fantasy about this amp changing bands but it might be fixed on 11 meters or 75 with any luck. It is the awful looking abandoned orphan  thunderbolt with orange spray paint I just bought todAy my back of the envelope math shows 3500v on the plates  may be useful with the ranger for amu
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KC0VVB
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Posts: 58




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« Reply #25 on: September 04, 2019, 09:06:11 PM »

May be useful for the ranger on am. I would be perfectly happy with 400W. It wont be here till next friday so i have time for discussion and research. I have my discharge stick and my shorting stick at the ready, for those two big twin pole oil filled caps.
each are twice as big as the viking II.

My plan is to carefully diagram each section and circut attempting to identify or measure each component value. Come up with a schematic. Verify if it is a good design and see if any values need to be changed. By running things by the elmers on e-ham. If the design is sound and all the components are in place w8ji can verify the math and tim tron can verify the diameter of the pvc the gauge of the wire and the number of turns for the tank coil to get this thing on 75 meters.

Erik
   
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KC0VVB
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Posts: 58




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« Reply #26 on: September 05, 2019, 06:34:29 AM »

k4pf thanks ed for your kind advice.
I ordered two of them they look great will be here soon. Of course i have to pull the front panel of the ranger to do the deed so i am re-building and greasing the verner gear reduction and replacing all of those hard to reach resistors with modern 1 watt flame proof. Except for the one that feeds the OA2  that gets a 5 watt 20k ohm cement resistor.

One of the .005 mfd ceramic bypass caps was all puffed up and sweaty so i replaced them all. I have found all the resistors that the previous owner used to replace the originals, looked original but they were all below the minimum working voltage 350v and were over 30% high with black bands and paint burned off.

Moved all the components to the side of the tie strip at the bottom of the vfo so they can be easily accessed when the side panel is removed.

Getting ready to flip this thing over and finish up the 100w resistors in the modulator section.
The guy who assembled this ranger from a kit in 1954 had a soldering iron the size of a hot dog  burned everything
that got near every solder joint.  Used so much solder on each terminal the globs were so big they almost shorted to the next terminal. How he could use that much solder on each terminal and still manage to have wires on the junction without solder is beyond me. These boat anchors are something you never know what you are going to get.

Erik KC0VVB


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K4PF
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Posts: 17




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« Reply #27 on: September 05, 2019, 11:36:56 AM »

Hi, Erik

Congratulations on your progress.  I had a good laugh at your description
of a hot-dog sized soldering iron used by the kit builder.

I was lucky with my Ranger II, the kit builder did a great job.
One thing he did which I haven't seen described elsewhere, is his push-to-talk mod
used a three-pole relay, instead of the DPDT relay shown by Johnson. 
He used the extra relay contacts to open the screen supply to the modulator tubes
when the PTT relay is open.  Of course, this completely removes plate current
from the modulators when the relay is open, reducing heat in the cabinet,
and extending the modulator tubes' life.

73,  Ed
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AD5X
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Posts: 1626




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« Reply #28 on: September 07, 2019, 03:24:35 AM »

You may find my Ranger restoration article of interest. Its on my website at www.ad5x.com. Here's the direct link:

http://ad5x.com/images/Articles/Ranger%20Mods.pdf

Phil - AD5X
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KM1H
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Posts: 5523




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« Reply #29 on: September 08, 2019, 07:29:12 AM »

Quote
Congratulations on your progress.  I had a good laugh at your description
of a hot-dog sized soldering iron used by the kit builder.

Until the late 40's or so even bigger irons were used for all sorts of electronics including in production of boatanchors. Look up American Beauty as an example.
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